Quick Connect for Gas Meter

You could probably do it yourself with a few pipe wrenches and some pipe sealant.

Plumber

You should have a 'knock out' or low-point nipple to catch solids on the downstream side of your meter. I bought black iron fittings, pipe dope, and a full port valve from Supply House for about $80. With two pair of channel locks you should be able to just modify what you have after cutting the gas to your house (will require you to re-light any pilot lights on water heaters, etc). You need to make sure you know what size line you need based on the generator's HP and distance from tap to where it will sit. If any of this scares you, get a plumber.

EDIT: That included a $30 medium density 3/4" 50-foot long tubing.

I'm sure it's not critical, but I've heard that described as its purpose. When I opened mine up, it had what I would describe as 'sludge' (not much of it, but enough). There is a plug in the yellow-handled brass valve (just in case if someone accidentally bumps it). I will just remove the plug, tie-in my line to my generator, and let 'er rip. When I'm done, I'll close the valve, disconnect the tubing, and re-install the threaded plug.

I don't know if all gas piping is standardized, so your diameters may differ. If you look at the photo you can see the new pipe vs. the old (rust color vs. black). So, I bought:

1-1/4" x 2" Black Nipple (screws into the rusty tee and allows me to add a new tee)
1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 3/4" Black Tee (this keeps the same larger diameter for the 'knockout' and gives me the 3/4" connection for the feed to my generator)
1-1/4" x 7-1/2" Black Nipple (I took measurements to make sure it would be as long as what was there prior without hitting the ground)
1-1/4" Black Cap (to cap off the 'knockout')
3/4" x 2-1/2" Black Nipple (ties into the 3/4" port of the new tee)
3/4" Full Port Threaded Ball Valve (Lead Free)
3/4" Brass Square Head Plug (Lead Free)
Pro Dope, Screw Cap w/Brush

You'll need to leak test it with soap after install. Just because what's above worked for me, your piping configuration might be different. If you look at your existing piping, you should be able to see a stamp in the metal telling you the size.

Nvmnd. I see it.

I have 3/4" hose with male on both ends. What should I use so I don't have to twist the entire hose while attaching? Is there something with a spinning collar?

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What should I use so I don't have to twist the entire hose while attaching?

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I had this same concern myself, but the connectors/pipe I use allow me to connect everything with little to no twisting of the hose. I assume you can use a union for this (which I think it what you are describing). I'm interested in others thoughts on this as well.

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3/4 quick connect is stupid expensive.

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Agreed.

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Can I use a section of the yellow flex 3/4 with the stainless spin collars and attach it that way when I need it?

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I think this is where everyone has to figure out what works for them and is safe. If you do something stupid your insurance may not be honored. I feel pretty confident on how to modify black iron piping, but the connections, bleeds, etc. is where I defer to others.

I've been interested in doing the same thing, but I'm having trouble turning the valve on the utility side of the meter.
I've tried wd-40, and the biggest wrenches I own, but obviously I don't want to be too forceful and cause a leak. Any tips on how to get the valve loose without having to call the utility?

Glad this thread popped up.
I pulled the trigger on a tri-fuel Duromax 13000HXT and waiting for it to come in. On their website they have a couple pictures showing this hooking right up to the meter.
I was trying to decide weather to call the plumber or doing it myself. Thinking I am doing this myself now.