re: Official AR-15 thread

Not to sidetrack too much, but does anyone have a tip or secret to keeping Keymod attachments in place? Yankee Hill was dumping all theirs on clearance. My son has put together a really nice setup, with that and a BCM upper...
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He was playing with a FDE color scheme, and we like how this turned out. The Crimson Trace on the front is both flashlight and laser, and with that front grip your hand is in perfect position to tap the control. Picked it up when Palmetto had it on clearance for $50. This whole thing is a budget build, blems and clearance for just about everything.

Anderson lower when it was $30, whatever M4 barrel was $60 from Midway (I think Stoner?), with a Monstrum Banshee LPVO (and yes, I know the complaints, but I like the Banshees a lot). Got that on a flash sale for under $50, I really don't think I can beat bang for buck there.

The reason I ask- the keymod attachments seem to want to walk backwards, no matter the torque. I've had to redo them once, would love to just lock them into place permanently. The front grip and the picatinny rail at the bottom front. I'm even tempted to put a dab of JBWeld there, at least on the rail.

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Did you end up with the 1:5?

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i did

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If so, any issues shooting lighter target rounds?

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haven't shot supers, yet. i had cycling issues with S&B 200gr subs. here's some feedback i got from Reddit.


https://www.reddit.com/r/300BLK/comments/1bmylyi/is_sb_subs_usually_this_dirty/


https://www.reddit.com/r/AeroPrecision/comments/1bo6uii/whats_the_maximum_number_of_rotations_when/


basically, i was told to get a Sprinco yellow spring and drill out the gas port hole ever so slightly. i bought a standard carbine spring locally for $7, however, and plan to cut 1 coil off at the range after each shot until i get a proper cycle. Sprinco still suggests drilling out the gas port hole when going with a light spring so i'll probably do that as well.



while it shot as a "bolt action", it was accurate and never tumbled. just noticed a few days ago that the buffer tube is actually about approximately 2" shorter than a standard carbine buffer tube. i'm assuming this is putting more tension on the spring requiring more blowback that subs can't provide. it's just a theory, but that's not the barrel's fault.

SB Tactical HBPDW Brace (Honey Badger PDW)






as far as the different ammo, supers vs subs, i've read that supers will separate/come apart during travel, and if you're shooting supers through a can, it'll separate in the can and potentially damage it. but the only ammo i've seen that's separate is Palmetto's AAC ammo so I've stayed away from them for now. they do offer 300 blk subs with Sierra bullets so i would think those would be good to go compared to AAC bullet's. here they are:

AAC Bullets (300blk 220gr) $15.99 usually - https://palmettostatearmory.com/aac-300-blackout-ammo-220-grain-otm-20rd-box.html

Sierra Bullets (300blk 220gr) $18.99 - https://palmettostatearmory.com/aac-300-blackout-ammo-220-grain-sierra-matchking-hpbt-w-cannelure-20rd-box.html

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i'd get a different handguard.

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yeah, I've looked into it some and that's just a keymod issue.

I think I'm going to put a dab of JB Weld there in the slot, and just make that a permanent addition to the original handguard; I'm guessing that isn't going to move. We otherwise like the feel and weight, and the layout. It just becomes less 'modular', but if we never plan on removing that rail or grip anyway, it's really not relevant.

edit to add: that particular handguard was $180, and the M-lok version still is. The keymod was dropped to under $40 and is now sold out.

you'll need an armorer's wrench to remove the castle nut.


there's also a rear detent spring that will fly out if you're not paying attention when you pull the plate back.


then you'll need to pay attention the the buffer detent and spring with removing the buffer tube.


4 minute video

You can always use the old flat head screwdriver and hammer method.

Think I'm going to stick with 1:7. Seems like more options anyway. And I know Ill be shooting supers quite a bit at some point when theres a cheap bulk deal.

Just bought a Q Trash Panda for it this afternoon. Shop said they've been getting approvals back in less than a week, then I informed him I was doing a trust and he said...then 10 months, haha. Oh well. Gives me time to research and optimize parts. Granted the Q comes with QD breaks for 3/8-24 and 1/2-28, so could be using it on my 5.56"

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You can always use the old flat head screwdriver and hammer method.

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Well, I basically got a castle wrench for free with OP bucks or something with the end plate order, so I don't mind getting more stuff. My wife got me a super nice bag, I still have plenty of room to stuff more things in it.

are any of you guys interested in a 16" Colt barrel with FSB and cage code?

it's got the Rosco "R" roll mark as well. round count is unknown. bought a 6920 used and put the 14.5" socom barrel in it along with a 2019 KAC M4 RAS.

My 300blk aero build. Strike pdw brace 10.3 barrel. Enticer S suppressor. Trijicon MRO

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Did it come with a buffer and spring?

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Yeah, it was actually an assembled lower from PSA. Standard carbine buffer/spring.

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How much space is needed between the can and the rail.

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If it locks up tight without touching the rail, you should be good.