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Started By
Message
Lifting a Polaris Ranger Crew "Portals"
Posted on 3/15/24 at 6:26 am
Posted on 3/15/24 at 6:26 am
I understand if you want to play you have to pay! I would appreciate it if you would share your experience/advise w/portals & big tires. Frame issues and issues in general. What not to do.
Right or wrongRob. I'm all in on 8" portals (parts stacked in the cave) not sure if I will add more lift than I currently have. Wanting to run 40's but 38's are a confirmed fit. <-- not sure if it matters other than available tread pattern. I have frame stiffeners, but I'm also interested in keeping the tires where they belong & not folded up under the machine.
Currently running 2020 Ranger crew:
High-Lifter Apex front & rear control arms
3" bracket lift w/2" wheel spacers, running 32"s.
Stock axles
I don't drive aggressive, just setting it up "better" to get to camp. The trip is 45min-1hr from the tailgate, with a lot of water. It's a freaking expedition lol. Swamp buggy territory south of south of Lake Okeechobee mostly sand based. Current set up works but it's limits are pushed as far a deep water goes chest deep in several spots.
Right or wrongRob. I'm all in on 8" portals (parts stacked in the cave) not sure if I will add more lift than I currently have. Wanting to run 40's but 38's are a confirmed fit. <-- not sure if it matters other than available tread pattern. I have frame stiffeners, but I'm also interested in keeping the tires where they belong & not folded up under the machine.
Currently running 2020 Ranger crew:
High-Lifter Apex front & rear control arms
3" bracket lift w/2" wheel spacers, running 32"s.
Stock axles
I don't drive aggressive, just setting it up "better" to get to camp. The trip is 45min-1hr from the tailgate, with a lot of water. It's a freaking expedition lol. Swamp buggy territory south of south of Lake Okeechobee mostly sand based. Current set up works but it's limits are pushed as far a deep water goes chest deep in several spots.
4
Posted on 3/15/24 at 6:57 am to wrongRob
Not sure if that year model falls into the weak front a-arm mounting points or not. Tater Toys makes a beefy whole new front weld in lower frame section. I’d look into it if you’re going that big.
If you’re staying with factory a-arms look into heavy duty ball joints.
Going that high I would 100% do track bars.
Someone makes a clear belt box cover which is nice for the riding you’ll be doing to easily monitor your belt/clutches.
Keep clean oil in your portals and watch for slack. Brass brake pads, standard won’t hold up for anything.
If you’re staying with factory a-arms look into heavy duty ball joints.
Going that high I would 100% do track bars.
Someone makes a clear belt box cover which is nice for the riding you’ll be doing to easily monitor your belt/clutches.
Keep clean oil in your portals and watch for slack. Brass brake pads, standard won’t hold up for anything.
Posted on 3/15/24 at 2:35 pm to wrongRob
Seen someone with these sweet trailing arms the other day. If I was spending money again on mine or a new one. I would go that route for sure
Posted on 3/15/24 at 2:44 pm to wrongRob
quote:
8" portals
quote:
heavy duty ball joints
Doesn't compute. 4" sure you can use Dirt Mafia or Keller Ball joints. 8"? Ball joint delete is your only option.
Posted on 3/16/24 at 7:42 am to wrongRob
Gentlemen I appreciate all of your input & for now I think I'm good to go.
Upgraded equipment & where to get it has been provided. I guess I have to count the cost to see what I'm going to do. Y'all have opened my eyes to things I just didn't consider. I appreciate it.
This may take longer than expected
Upgraded equipment & where to get it has been provided. I guess I have to count the cost to see what I'm going to do. Y'all have opened my eyes to things I just didn't consider. I appreciate it.
This may take longer than expected
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