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Trailer Bearing Replacement near Baton Rouge
Posted on 5/7/24 at 11:20 am
Posted on 5/7/24 at 11:20 am
Anyone know a good shop that will replace the bearings on my boat trailer? I've called several trailer companies and none will do it. Thanks.
8
Posted on 5/7/24 at 11:26 am to wimberley
It's pretty easy, you could probably do it yourself in less time than it takes to find a shop and haul your trailer there.
Posted on 5/7/24 at 11:27 am to wimberley
I had the same need a few years ago. Same response from shops. If you have time, it’s not terrible to do yourself. I had found a local guy that said he’d do it in his yard, but I ended up doing it myself.
Posted on 5/7/24 at 11:27 am to wimberley
Mike Geralds in BR (two locations)
B&B Enterprises in Gonzales
B&B Enterprises in Gonzales
Posted on 5/7/24 at 12:15 pm to wimberley
Your biggest problem is going to be finding the exact, replacement bearings
To do that you will have to take the wheels off, and remove the old ones.
Take the old bearings to Mike Geralds.
A messy, easy, 15 min job at the house.
To do that you will have to take the wheels off, and remove the old ones.
Take the old bearings to Mike Geralds.
A messy, easy, 15 min job at the house.
Posted on 5/7/24 at 12:34 pm to wimberley
I agree with some of the other posters. This is an easy task and a good DIY project. It won't take long, and understanding the process will help out in the long run. If you don't have them already, get a set of bearing buddies.
U-Toob has lost of videos which break down the process.
U-Toob has lost of videos which break down the process.
Posted on 5/7/24 at 12:38 pm to eatpie
As others have said, easy job to do yourself. Buy a seal puller and a bearing packer. Those should be the only tools you have to buy and they're cheap.
I prefer the bearing packer that's plastic and hooks up to a grease gun over the kind you have to push down.
And don't forget several pairs of gloves and a bunch of shop paper towels.
I prefer the bearing packer that's plastic and hooks up to a grease gun over the kind you have to push down.
And don't forget several pairs of gloves and a bunch of shop paper towels.
This post was edited on 5/7/24 at 12:44 pm
Posted on 5/7/24 at 12:49 pm to Drop4Loss
quote:
Your biggest problem is going to be finding the exact, replacement bearings
To do that you will have to take the wheels off, and remove the old ones.
Take the old bearings to Mike Geralds.
A messy, easy, 15 min job at the house.
It costs a little more but the job is even easier if you can find the whole hub assembly with bearings/races already in it and packed. I used to be able to get mine at Academy but I have a small trailer. I keep a spare in my truck in case I'm ever in a bind on the side of the road.
Posted on 5/7/24 at 1:13 pm to wimberley
It's a shame that you can't find people to complete simple labor tasks for pay anymore. Most won't even quote jobs at a "don't want it" price, they just refuse the work completely. Leaving a lot of money on the table for simple tasks.
Posted on 5/7/24 at 4:44 pm to southside
Thanks, everyone. It is probably a good idea to do it myself now so that if I ever get in a bind on the road, I'll know what I'm doing. Having an extra hub bolted on the trailer is a great idea as well. Thanks.
Posted on 5/7/24 at 5:17 pm to wimberley
Go for it! I found it much easier than I was expecting.
Posted on 5/7/24 at 5:58 pm to wimberley
Get a few pair of the good throw away rubber gloves.
It's an easy job, but it is kind of a greasy job.
Make sure you keep your new bearings nice and clean. You don't want any contamination.
Keep everything clean.
It's an easy job, but it is kind of a greasy job.
Make sure you keep your new bearings nice and clean. You don't want any contamination.
Keep everything clean.
Posted on 5/8/24 at 12:43 am to Dock Holiday
Herbs or Mike Geralds in BR.
Posted on 5/8/24 at 7:43 am to wimberley
It’s not a terrible job if you’ve never done it. I suggest watching some YouTube videos to get a feel for the job. You don’t need a seal puller. You can pop the seal out with a big flat head. Changing the bearings isn’t bad. You need to make sure they’re packed with grease! If the bearing races in the hub are pitted, scared etc and need replacing that’s a different story. Driving them out and pressing new ones in isn’t for everyone. When going back up don’t over tighten the castle nut. To tight and your bearings will get hot. Good luck.
Posted on 5/8/24 at 8:36 am to wimberley
I would buy Vortex hubs and then you don't have to mess with them again for a long time.
Posted on 5/8/24 at 8:42 am to Wilson
quote:
I would buy Vortex hubs and then you don't have to mess with them again for a long time.
This is the way.
Posted on 5/8/24 at 8:50 pm to WPBTiger
New replacement wheel hubs with bearing and seals already installed were about 70 bucks two years ago. Back the wheel nut off, slide the old assembly off and use a bunch of paper towels to clean shaft. If shaft has burrs on it use some emory cloth to smooth. Pack the new assembly with grease and reinstall.
helps access if boat is off trailer.
Use gear oil hypoid 90 , to paint the springs, mounts etc that look rusty
I used to remove pressed in bearing with hammer and screw driver. worked but sucked.
reinstalling the bearing cover use a block of wood across it to beat in evenly
helps access if boat is off trailer.
Use gear oil hypoid 90 , to paint the springs, mounts etc that look rusty
I used to remove pressed in bearing with hammer and screw driver. worked but sucked.
reinstalling the bearing cover use a block of wood across it to beat in evenly
Posted on 5/9/24 at 9:16 pm to wimberley
Remember to preload the bearings!
When you do it, run the castle nut down hand tight, then tighten with your socket, kinda snugish- then back off 1/4 turn and install cotter pin.
Make sure hubs turn freely after that. You should feel a little drag. There should be no slack on how the hub seats on the spindle.
When you do it, run the castle nut down hand tight, then tighten with your socket, kinda snugish- then back off 1/4 turn and install cotter pin.
Make sure hubs turn freely after that. You should feel a little drag. There should be no slack on how the hub seats on the spindle.
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