- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
TulaneLSU's review of Tony's of Houston
Posted on 7/8/23 at 12:37 am
Posted on 7/8/23 at 12:37 am
Dear Friends,
Tony’s is an institution to Houston as Galatoire’s is to New Orleans. But just as the two cities are so starkly different in tone and outlook, so too are these two restaurants. Tony’s opened in 1965 on the site that Macy’s occupies in the Galleria. Its owner was Tony Vallone, a 22 year old son of a restaurateur from the Third Ward of the same city. Initially the restaurant remained true to what Houston knew of Italian food in those days: spaghetti, meatballs, and red sauce.
As Houston evolved and gained a broader scope, Tony’s took on similar tones of diversity. By 1972, Tony’s moved to Post Oak near the Galleria. Its menu grew to include distinctly French flare. This was at a time in America where the wealthy wanted a fine French bistro experience. Restaurants like Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia, Chalet Brandt in Baton Rouge, technically a Franco-Swiss restaurant, and Crozier’s in New Orleans were just a few of the archetypal French bistros that rose in those years to national prominence among the elite.
The Tony’s of 1972-2000 was among the most famous restaurants in America, and you were as likely to dine next to a celebrity there as you were at the celebrity magnet in Metairie, Impastato’s. Royalty, movie stars, oil tycoons, politicians, and the upper crust of Houston all flocked to get a taste of the avant garde Franco-Italian Tony’s. Donald Trump even met with Richard Nixon in the restaurant in 1989, one of the first time Nixon had made a public appearance since his resignation.
In 2004, the restaurant moved to its current location on Richmond, just around the corner from Joel Osteen’s NBA auditorium. To me, this was a downgrade in locations, although the new restaurant’s digs are much more stylish and open than its predecessor. Tony Vallone died nearly three years ago, but his wife, Donna, carries the torch. She makes it a point to visit every table, just as Tony was so well known to do. I had a nice fifteen minute conversation with her tonight and we talked about New Orleans, poorboy tours, and Galatoire’s. What a lovely lady.
Today, I drove by myself to Houston because I wanted to eat at Pancho’s Mexican Buffet. Only three remain, and the one in Humble is the closest to New Orleans. After stuffing my tummy with the yummy there, I spent the rest of the day touring Houston’s wonderful grocery stores. By the evening, though, my hunger had returned. I had not been to Tony’s in decades, so I called to see if they had a table. Sure enough, there was a cancellation, and they were able to accommodate me.
The airy and open space is quite inviting, and the art has a distinctly 2005-2010 feel. The carpet is soft and the chair comfortable. The dining room was filled with what appeared to be several birthday parties as well as a couple of people wearing far too revealing clothing. It is a shame the restaurant does not still require jackets for men and no revealed midriffs for women.
Because I had eaten more than 30 items at Pancho’s seven hours earlier, I chose the four course rather than the seven course tasting menu. There are complementary housemade crackers with lovely whipped butter. I would have preferred bread. As I tasted on sesame seed crackers, the room was alive with celebrations and razzle dazzle. One table gawked as the battle axe tomahawk steak was brought out with much pomp and weaponry. Another table had sparklers ablaze on Marie Antoinette’s head as they feasted on “Let Them Eat Cake,” a galette with cotton candy.
One thing is certain here: the staff like to put on a good show. And they are excellent at doing so. The service is more than entertainment; it is also superbly attentive and knowledgeable, a rarity in recent years. Five seconds will hardly elapse after you go to the wash closet before a waiter will move to fold your napkin.
My first course was the foie gras cotton candy. When executive chef, Kate McClean, stopped by later in the evening to speak with me, after I requested her presence, she told me that this dish was inspired by Jose Andres, the Spaniard molecular chef whose The Bazaar restaurant exported haute Spanish cuisine to the American palate. The foie gras was excellent, smoky and tender. I presume it was seared, with a warm crust and cool in the middle. The cotton candy was no airhead gimmick. It added a sweet contrast that woke me from a slumber.
The foie gras cotton candy does not count as one of the four courses in the tasting menu. It is a gift from the chef, so I requested two. They were more than happy to oblige, as hospitality is first at Tony’s.
Tony’s is an institution to Houston as Galatoire’s is to New Orleans. But just as the two cities are so starkly different in tone and outlook, so too are these two restaurants. Tony’s opened in 1965 on the site that Macy’s occupies in the Galleria. Its owner was Tony Vallone, a 22 year old son of a restaurateur from the Third Ward of the same city. Initially the restaurant remained true to what Houston knew of Italian food in those days: spaghetti, meatballs, and red sauce.
As Houston evolved and gained a broader scope, Tony’s took on similar tones of diversity. By 1972, Tony’s moved to Post Oak near the Galleria. Its menu grew to include distinctly French flare. This was at a time in America where the wealthy wanted a fine French bistro experience. Restaurants like Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia, Chalet Brandt in Baton Rouge, technically a Franco-Swiss restaurant, and Crozier’s in New Orleans were just a few of the archetypal French bistros that rose in those years to national prominence among the elite.
The Tony’s of 1972-2000 was among the most famous restaurants in America, and you were as likely to dine next to a celebrity there as you were at the celebrity magnet in Metairie, Impastato’s. Royalty, movie stars, oil tycoons, politicians, and the upper crust of Houston all flocked to get a taste of the avant garde Franco-Italian Tony’s. Donald Trump even met with Richard Nixon in the restaurant in 1989, one of the first time Nixon had made a public appearance since his resignation.
In 2004, the restaurant moved to its current location on Richmond, just around the corner from Joel Osteen’s NBA auditorium. To me, this was a downgrade in locations, although the new restaurant’s digs are much more stylish and open than its predecessor. Tony Vallone died nearly three years ago, but his wife, Donna, carries the torch. She makes it a point to visit every table, just as Tony was so well known to do. I had a nice fifteen minute conversation with her tonight and we talked about New Orleans, poorboy tours, and Galatoire’s. What a lovely lady.
Today, I drove by myself to Houston because I wanted to eat at Pancho’s Mexican Buffet. Only three remain, and the one in Humble is the closest to New Orleans. After stuffing my tummy with the yummy there, I spent the rest of the day touring Houston’s wonderful grocery stores. By the evening, though, my hunger had returned. I had not been to Tony’s in decades, so I called to see if they had a table. Sure enough, there was a cancellation, and they were able to accommodate me.
The airy and open space is quite inviting, and the art has a distinctly 2005-2010 feel. The carpet is soft and the chair comfortable. The dining room was filled with what appeared to be several birthday parties as well as a couple of people wearing far too revealing clothing. It is a shame the restaurant does not still require jackets for men and no revealed midriffs for women.
Because I had eaten more than 30 items at Pancho’s seven hours earlier, I chose the four course rather than the seven course tasting menu. There are complementary housemade crackers with lovely whipped butter. I would have preferred bread. As I tasted on sesame seed crackers, the room was alive with celebrations and razzle dazzle. One table gawked as the battle axe tomahawk steak was brought out with much pomp and weaponry. Another table had sparklers ablaze on Marie Antoinette’s head as they feasted on “Let Them Eat Cake,” a galette with cotton candy.
One thing is certain here: the staff like to put on a good show. And they are excellent at doing so. The service is more than entertainment; it is also superbly attentive and knowledgeable, a rarity in recent years. Five seconds will hardly elapse after you go to the wash closet before a waiter will move to fold your napkin.
My first course was the foie gras cotton candy. When executive chef, Kate McClean, stopped by later in the evening to speak with me, after I requested her presence, she told me that this dish was inspired by Jose Andres, the Spaniard molecular chef whose The Bazaar restaurant exported haute Spanish cuisine to the American palate. The foie gras was excellent, smoky and tender. I presume it was seared, with a warm crust and cool in the middle. The cotton candy was no airhead gimmick. It added a sweet contrast that woke me from a slumber.
The foie gras cotton candy does not count as one of the four courses in the tasting menu. It is a gift from the chef, so I requested two. They were more than happy to oblige, as hospitality is first at Tony’s.
This post was edited on 7/8/23 at 12:42 am
4
Posted on 7/8/23 at 12:37 am to TulaneLSU
My next course also was not part of the four courses. I decided to add a salad-like dish, as the tasting menu did not include a salad. And so, I chose the black truffle shaving on a pear with a Romano mousse drizzled in chestnut honey. This dish was a nearly perfect dish. Light and sweet, the mouse and pear were great on their own. But when the black truffle found its way to my tongue, it sent goosebumps down my spine. Wow! I do not think I have ever experienced truffles employed in such a powerful and succinct way. It was the night’s best course, and a bargain at just $16.
When the friendly waiter brought out the next dish, my tasting officially began. For this course, there is an option between a hamachi crudo and what is called Ocean’s Cup. This dish contains an oyster froth with a squash blossom, covering a respectable amount of Petrossian Daurenki cavviar. This caviar retails for around $1000 per pound, and I was surprised to see it on a tasting menu that was only $120 for four courses. The dish was good, but not life changing nor terribly memorable. The colors were dull and the froth an airy transiency with no staying power. The caviar was fine, although, I find that as I age, I prefer masago and salmon roe to sturgeon eggs.
A cart with bells and whistles heralded the next course: a housemade tossed in a rather uninteresting cream sauce. My waiter clearly favored me as a customer, so he said he was giving me a double portion of black summer truffles, shaved at the table. For whatever reason, these truffle shavings, although much greater in mass than the pear with truffle from earlier, did not have the same jarring flavors.
Once finished playing with my food, the third course arrived.a poached lobster half atop dehydrated mustard greens, served beneath a crispy piece of bread dyed black from squid ink. Covering the lobster was a tomato based di mare sauce, which I thought detracted from the otherwise excellent dish.
The fourth and technically last course was the New York strip. This beautifully dry aged prime strip sits near farro and a hen of the woods mushroom patch. The white powder, I assumed, was a cheese. But I consulted the waiter and he told me that it was really a bone marrow powder. It sounded great and I presumed I would like it, but the powder had very little taste. The steak and mushroom, on the other hand, were world class. Although the steak was a smaller tasting portion, I was satisfied.
Finally came dessert, which was also complimentary and excellent. Its base was a cherry concoction whose texture was closer to gelato more so than foam or ice cream. In its middle was a pistachio candy.
The meal ended with a mignardises of a blood orange confectionary. It was delicious and did justice to any blood orange. Afterward, I chose to start burning some of those calories and walked about the restaurant. The large kitchen window lets viewers see how a world class restaurant is run. I believe that is the back of executive chef, Kate McClean, in the picture below. She is an excellent chef worthy of the accolades she has received. The men’s bathrooms were capacious, clean and well appointed.
Tony’s is one of those rare institutions that holds close to its traditions yet has not been attached to them in ways, like a ball and chain, that drag it to the abyss. It is the best restaurant in Houston I have yet to try and would easily earn a Michelin star, if not two, if it were in Chicago or New York.
Yours,
TulaneLSU
When the friendly waiter brought out the next dish, my tasting officially began. For this course, there is an option between a hamachi crudo and what is called Ocean’s Cup. This dish contains an oyster froth with a squash blossom, covering a respectable amount of Petrossian Daurenki cavviar. This caviar retails for around $1000 per pound, and I was surprised to see it on a tasting menu that was only $120 for four courses. The dish was good, but not life changing nor terribly memorable. The colors were dull and the froth an airy transiency with no staying power. The caviar was fine, although, I find that as I age, I prefer masago and salmon roe to sturgeon eggs.
A cart with bells and whistles heralded the next course: a housemade tossed in a rather uninteresting cream sauce. My waiter clearly favored me as a customer, so he said he was giving me a double portion of black summer truffles, shaved at the table. For whatever reason, these truffle shavings, although much greater in mass than the pear with truffle from earlier, did not have the same jarring flavors.
Once finished playing with my food, the third course arrived.a poached lobster half atop dehydrated mustard greens, served beneath a crispy piece of bread dyed black from squid ink. Covering the lobster was a tomato based di mare sauce, which I thought detracted from the otherwise excellent dish.
The fourth and technically last course was the New York strip. This beautifully dry aged prime strip sits near farro and a hen of the woods mushroom patch. The white powder, I assumed, was a cheese. But I consulted the waiter and he told me that it was really a bone marrow powder. It sounded great and I presumed I would like it, but the powder had very little taste. The steak and mushroom, on the other hand, were world class. Although the steak was a smaller tasting portion, I was satisfied.
Finally came dessert, which was also complimentary and excellent. Its base was a cherry concoction whose texture was closer to gelato more so than foam or ice cream. In its middle was a pistachio candy.
The meal ended with a mignardises of a blood orange confectionary. It was delicious and did justice to any blood orange. Afterward, I chose to start burning some of those calories and walked about the restaurant. The large kitchen window lets viewers see how a world class restaurant is run. I believe that is the back of executive chef, Kate McClean, in the picture below. She is an excellent chef worthy of the accolades she has received. The men’s bathrooms were capacious, clean and well appointed.
Tony’s is one of those rare institutions that holds close to its traditions yet has not been attached to them in ways, like a ball and chain, that drag it to the abyss. It is the best restaurant in Houston I have yet to try and would easily earn a Michelin star, if not two, if it were in Chicago or New York.
Yours,
TulaneLSU
This post was edited on 7/8/23 at 5:56 pm
Posted on 7/8/23 at 12:40 am to TulaneLSU
You had me at panchos Mexican buffet. I wpuld pay a kings ransom to meet you. Wpuld. Keep. The secret of. Course.
Posted on 7/8/23 at 12:44 am to Tiger Ryno
Friend,
Let us plan to travel together to Pancho's soon. It was a superb experience with a menu that is bigger than what we once knew. The salad bar, for instance, had chicharrones and Mexican coleslaw. Who knew such a thing existed? I am exhausted now, but will be up early to tour as many Houston grocery stores as possible tomorrow morning.
Yours,
TulaneLSU
Let us plan to travel together to Pancho's soon. It was a superb experience with a menu that is bigger than what we once knew. The salad bar, for instance, had chicharrones and Mexican coleslaw. Who knew such a thing existed? I am exhausted now, but will be up early to tour as many Houston grocery stores as possible tomorrow morning.
Yours,
TulaneLSU
Posted on 7/8/23 at 12:59 am to TulaneLSU
quote:
I drove by myself to Houston because I wanted to eat at Pancho’s Mexican Buffet. Only three remain, and the one in Humble is the closest to New Orleans.
Where’s the review for Pancho’s? The first time I ever broke bread with my wife of 21 years was at Pancho’s somewhere on the south shore. It would be a couple years before we actually got together but that was the first time we sat across from each other at a restaurant.
Posted on 7/8/23 at 1:10 am to TulaneLSU
Praise God for you friend.
Posted on 7/8/23 at 6:46 am to TulaneLSU
This reminds me of Mother after one of our long soirées.
This post was edited on 7/8/23 at 6:54 am
Posted on 7/8/23 at 7:47 am to TulaneLSU
Tony's looks like a swell place to chow down. I like to measure and rank all such dining establishments by their grilled cheese. Did they serve theirs with or without the crust and how well toasted was the Bunny Bread? I prefer mine toasted in a bit more butter than some and usually mention that fact to the waiter when I order my grub.
Pancho's holds a special place in my heart as perhaps the first place I actually had too much to eat. Before a night at Pancho's when I was seven I had no idea it was possible to eat too much, since portions were carefully controlled at home. I also had no idea heart burn could hurt so much, or that refried beans packed such a wallop the next day!
As always, thanks for the review, we need to get together sometime for another trip to the best south of the border dining ever conceived by cute little mustachioed Spanish guys in their wide brimmed red, green, and white Sombreros. If you will let me know when you want to go, I will drive down to the oil city of Texas to meet you that evening and dinner will be on me! Would be nice to raise the flag with you.
Pancho's holds a special place in my heart as perhaps the first place I actually had too much to eat. Before a night at Pancho's when I was seven I had no idea it was possible to eat too much, since portions were carefully controlled at home. I also had no idea heart burn could hurt so much, or that refried beans packed such a wallop the next day!
As always, thanks for the review, we need to get together sometime for another trip to the best south of the border dining ever conceived by cute little mustachioed Spanish guys in their wide brimmed red, green, and white Sombreros. If you will let me know when you want to go, I will drive down to the oil city of Texas to meet you that evening and dinner will be on me! Would be nice to raise the flag with you.
Posted on 7/8/23 at 7:53 am to TulaneLSU
quote:
Light and sweet, the mouse and pear were great on their own. But when the black truffle found its way to my tongue, it sent goosebumps down my spine.
Sir, will medium rare be satisfactory for your rodent?
Posted on 7/8/23 at 8:02 am to TulaneLSU
Nice. I’d much prefer to eat that old Menu.
Posted on 7/8/23 at 11:24 am to TulaneLSU
Baw… you should have hit up Fege’s BBQ in Greenway instead.
Posted on 7/8/23 at 11:58 am to ragincajun03
I am rather impressed by the cleanliness of the mens restroom facility
Posted on 7/8/23 at 2:26 pm to diat150
If you are with a group and are looking for a bit of a show I recommend the duck press service. Great show, theres a great story behind the duck press, and its delicious.
Posted on 7/8/23 at 5:21 pm to TulaneLSU
Friend,
My invitation must have been misplaced by your courier pigeon. In the future I do request you contact me by means of telegraph so that we may avoid this sort of complication.
Best regards,
Intelligent
My invitation must have been misplaced by your courier pigeon. In the future I do request you contact me by means of telegraph so that we may avoid this sort of complication.
Best regards,
Intelligent
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News