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13-13-13 fertilizer questions
Posted on 4/29/19 at 11:06 am
Posted on 4/29/19 at 11:06 am
1) Can I just throw this on my entire yard, trees and shrubs?
2) How often?
3)What setting for my Scott’s spreader? (Not on bag)
4) how much fertilizer is too much and will kill it? I ask this because my nursery guy told me to put “two handfuls” around a tree and I want to know if I should add more. How long before I should notice a difference?
Thanks guys
2) How often?
3)What setting for my Scott’s spreader? (Not on bag)
4) how much fertilizer is too much and will kill it? I ask this because my nursery guy told me to put “two handfuls” around a tree and I want to know if I should add more. How long before I should notice a difference?
Thanks guys
Posted on 4/29/19 at 12:05 pm to pwejr88
Triple 13 is good for your trees and shrubs. What type of grass do you have? I'm assuming centipede or st aug. 13% is a bit low for nitrogen and bit high for phosphorus when it comes to a lawn fertilizer. Yes, you can adjust your spreader to apply more nitrogen but you'll also go through your bag of fert faster and with it you will also be applying more phosphorus. For centipede I like 16-0-8 and for st aug I like 25-3-5.
3 good nitrogen ferts a year is a good starting point for your lawn.
I use a lesco spreader so I can't tell you where to set your Scotts spreader. You'll have to do the math. How much product per thousand square feet does each spreader setting put out plus the percent of that product that is nitrogen. Right now I would put down 1lb of nitrogen per thousand square feet.
Yes, too much fert can burn your lawn. Too many factors to give you an exact amount. Plus overfertilization can make a fungus explode on your lawn.
3 good nitrogen ferts a year is a good starting point for your lawn.
I use a lesco spreader so I can't tell you where to set your Scotts spreader. You'll have to do the math. How much product per thousand square feet does each spreader setting put out plus the percent of that product that is nitrogen. Right now I would put down 1lb of nitrogen per thousand square feet.
Yes, too much fert can burn your lawn. Too many factors to give you an exact amount. Plus overfertilization can make a fungus explode on your lawn.
Posted on 4/29/19 at 12:11 pm to ronk
quote:
For centipede I like 16-0-8 and for st aug I like 25-3-5.
Not to hijack the thread, but for a St. Augustine lawn that I'm trying to get the grass to spread out more and overtake dead weeds...which fertilizer would be best you think, ronk? Still the 25-3-5?
Posted on 4/29/19 at 12:25 pm to ronk
Great stuff thanks. How long should I give trees before I can see a difference the fertilizer made and if I need to add more?
Trees are very frail and thin so it shouldn’t take long to see a difference I would think.
Trees are very frail and thin so it shouldn’t take long to see a difference I would think.
Posted on 4/29/19 at 12:27 pm to LSUperior
If your grass is healthy I still like 25-3-5. Upping the nitrogen is necessarily going to make the grass grow faster and it could lead to other issues like fungus. If your lawn is stressed then I do like 20-20-10. Key word is stressed, I would not put that on a healthy lawn.
Posted on 4/29/19 at 2:10 pm to fillmoregandt
The 13% P ( the middle number) is no longer recommended for anything other than flowering and fruiting plants. Native soils have adequate to high P naturally and you are likely creating runoff.
Use a 3-1-2 ratio or a 5-1-5 ratio.
For more runners and lawn fill in use a high N (first number) and more importantly mow often and regularly. This promotes side shoots and thicker growth. Gradually raise mowing height during the summer.
Use a 3-1-2 ratio or a 5-1-5 ratio.
For more runners and lawn fill in use a high N (first number) and more importantly mow often and regularly. This promotes side shoots and thicker growth. Gradually raise mowing height during the summer.
This post was edited on 4/30/19 at 7:59 am
Posted on 4/29/19 at 2:29 pm to pwejr88
That is going to depend on the growth rate of the trees/shrubs. You should be able to tell a difference in flowering trees/shrubs the next time they flower. You should notice more budding going on. Do you have lichen on any of the trees? I like to use that as a guide for how my fertilization is going.
Posted on 4/29/19 at 2:34 pm to fillmoregandt
Fertilization wise zoysia is going to be treated more closely to centipede.
Posted on 4/29/19 at 2:42 pm to ronk
Lichen is a good sign or bad sign?
Posted on 4/29/19 at 3:55 pm to lsurulzes88
Lichen isn't horrible but it usually means the tree is deficient in one or more nutrients. I break of the lichen and if it doesn't return then I call the fertilization a success.
Posted on 4/29/19 at 5:00 pm to ronk
Had a bag of 8-24-24 left over from food plots at deer camp. Will it hurt it to apply it to well established centipede lawn?
Posted on 4/29/19 at 6:15 pm to lsu1987
It's not going to hurt it but all of that phosphorus will end not being used.
Posted on 4/29/19 at 6:39 pm to pwejr88
As ronk said 13-13-13 is fine for shrubs and trees. I’ve been following these guidelines for fertilizing trees I planted a couple years ago (15 & 30 gal container size). Have to do some calculations but once you come up with the numbers your good to go.
If the trees are in the lawn you take in consideration the lawn fertilization amounts as well as lawn fertilization will contribute to tree growth (when drip line of trees extends into the lawn area).
Although the article is from Clemson, it’s applicable to LA and other southern states.
LINK
If the trees are in the lawn you take in consideration the lawn fertilization amounts as well as lawn fertilization will contribute to tree growth (when drip line of trees extends into the lawn area).
Although the article is from Clemson, it’s applicable to LA and other southern states.
LINK
Posted on 4/29/19 at 8:24 pm to ronk
Thanks for the response. As long as it won’t hurt, I am not worried about the phosphorus being unused. Appreciate it!
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