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Started By
Message
Centipede lawn help needed!
Posted on 10/7/20 at 9:59 am
Posted on 10/7/20 at 9:59 am
I'm having trouble figuring out what to do to get my lawn into shape. There are so many chemicals for pre/post emergent applications based on the weeds your dealing with. My lawn is so weed infested that I'm wanting to just do a blanket application now with a post emergent, put down a pre -emergent, and then see what grows from there. What is best to use for this approach?
Also, how often and when to apply each of these pre/post applications? When and how often to apply fertilizer applications? In the spring, I put out an applications of Milorganite. Is it time for another application? However, it does seem like I'm just feeding the weeds.
I keep my grass cut fairly high to try to choke out some of the weeds, but it doesn't seems to work.
I'm not looking to have the best lawn in the neighborhood. Just looking to not to have a yard full of weeds like I have right now.
Any advice anyone is able to provide will be greatly appreciated.
Also, how often and when to apply each of these pre/post applications? When and how often to apply fertilizer applications? In the spring, I put out an applications of Milorganite. Is it time for another application? However, it does seem like I'm just feeding the weeds.
I keep my grass cut fairly high to try to choke out some of the weeds, but it doesn't seems to work.
I'm not looking to have the best lawn in the neighborhood. Just looking to not to have a yard full of weeds like I have right now.
Any advice anyone is able to provide will be greatly appreciated.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 10:15 am to Hammond Tiger Fan
I'll let someone else answer on what to put down for weed control.
My opinion on fertilizer is to skip it for centipede. As far as mowing height, I've found that 2" works well for me. Any lower and I get into the stolons.
My opinion on fertilizer is to skip it for centipede. As far as mowing height, I've found that 2" works well for me. Any lower and I get into the stolons.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 10:36 am to Hammond Tiger Fan
step one - rent a sod cutter and remove all the centipede
step two - add sand and fine grade
step three - plant zoysia
step four - have a beer on your new zoysia lawn
All kidding aside, Centipede is hard to mitigate weeds I have found. Some people I know used this and it worked great for them.
Sunday Lawn Program
step two - add sand and fine grade
step three - plant zoysia
step four - have a beer on your new zoysia lawn
All kidding aside, Centipede is hard to mitigate weeds I have found. Some people I know used this and it worked great for them.
Sunday Lawn Program
Posted on 10/7/20 at 10:56 am to Hammond Tiger Fan
This time of year makes it difficult to do anything. I would wait until spring and do this:
Put out a bag of Scotts weed and feed. This sounds like a joke and shallow approach. However, has served me well over the years.
Put out a bag of Scotts weed and feed. This sounds like a joke and shallow approach. However, has served me well over the years.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 11:24 am to Hammond Tiger Fan
Sethoxydim
2-4D
Atrazine
Pre-emergant NOW
0 to low Nitrogen fertilizer for winter
Talstar insecticide
Pre-emergant in late winter/early spring
Same hebicides in spring
Regular Nitrogen fertilizer in spring
Talstar again
2-4D
Atrazine
Pre-emergant NOW
0 to low Nitrogen fertilizer for winter
Talstar insecticide
Pre-emergant in late winter/early spring
Same hebicides in spring
Regular Nitrogen fertilizer in spring
Talstar again
Posted on 10/7/20 at 11:36 am to Hammond Tiger Fan
I went through the same thing over the last two years.
Pre-emergent in February and October - Dimension worked much better for me than Barricade.
Purple bottle image with hose-end sprayer in the spring. The clover and dollarweed should die out pretty quickly.
Sethoxydim with hose-end sprayer also in the spring to knock down dallisgrass that already germinated and punch the torpedograss in the balls.
Heavy serving of organic slow-release fertilizer in April or May I believe - I don't think they make what I used anymore but it was $15 a bag at Lowes - 10-0-2 or something like that.
Followed fertilizer with Ironite
Spot Sprayed with purple bottle Image as needed throughout year into the fall.
The key is consistency. Too long of a gap between applications of pre-emergent and you've lost any progress being made.
Pre-emergent in February and October - Dimension worked much better for me than Barricade.
Purple bottle image with hose-end sprayer in the spring. The clover and dollarweed should die out pretty quickly.
Sethoxydim with hose-end sprayer also in the spring to knock down dallisgrass that already germinated and punch the torpedograss in the balls.
Heavy serving of organic slow-release fertilizer in April or May I believe - I don't think they make what I used anymore but it was $15 a bag at Lowes - 10-0-2 or something like that.
Followed fertilizer with Ironite
Spot Sprayed with purple bottle Image as needed throughout year into the fall.
The key is consistency. Too long of a gap between applications of pre-emergent and you've lost any progress being made.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 11:37 am to ksdolfan
quote:
Sethoxydim
Sounds like a crazy name but it can be found at hardware stores under the name Hi-Yield grass killer. Kills most everything but centipede.

Posted on 10/7/20 at 11:42 am to ksdolfan
quote:
Sethoxydim
2-4D
Atrazine
Pre-emergant NOW
0 to low Nitrogen fertilizer for winter
Talstar insecticide
Pre-emergant in late winter/early spring
Same hebicides in spring
Regular Nitrogen fertilizer in spring
Talstar again
quote:
Sethoxydim
2-4D
Atrazine
Pre-emergant NOW
0 to low Nitrogen fertilizer for winter
Talstar insecticide
Pre-emergant in late winter/early spring
Same hebicides in spring
Regular Nitrogen fertilizer in spring
Talstar again
Would you mind providing a suggested application rate for each?
Posted on 10/7/20 at 11:56 am to Hammond Tiger Fan
No fertilizer on centipede.the remainder of the year.
Apply Dimension (granular) or Prodiamine (granular or spray) pre-emergent ASAP as winter weed seeds are about germinate.
If entire lawn is weed infested spray it now with MSM Turf, or Celsius or Atrazine+Weed-Free-Zone combo. Follow up with another spray in a few weeks as needed.
Cut centipede at 1 1/2 to 2 inches height.
By early/mid-Feb, next year apply pre-emergent again, and spray post-emergents weeds with the same herbicides recommended above but not during the green-up phase as the lawn transitions from dormancy to active growth.
Early April apply lawn fertlilzer at 1/2 lb N per 1000 sq ft with a second application at the same rate in June.
Spray weeds in summer as needed with either MSM Turf or Celsius, but not atrazine or weed-free-zone.
If your lawn is compacted, has a lot of thatch consider aerating it next May or so when the grass is actively growing.
Between now and next spring pull some soil samples from the lawn for analysis by the LSU AgCenter. - for baseline info and to check for any nutrient deficiency issues that might need to be addressed.
Lastly patience and persistence - it takes awhile to turn things around.
Apply Dimension (granular) or Prodiamine (granular or spray) pre-emergent ASAP as winter weed seeds are about germinate.
If entire lawn is weed infested spray it now with MSM Turf, or Celsius or Atrazine+Weed-Free-Zone combo. Follow up with another spray in a few weeks as needed.
Cut centipede at 1 1/2 to 2 inches height.
By early/mid-Feb, next year apply pre-emergent again, and spray post-emergents weeds with the same herbicides recommended above but not during the green-up phase as the lawn transitions from dormancy to active growth.
Early April apply lawn fertlilzer at 1/2 lb N per 1000 sq ft with a second application at the same rate in June.
Spray weeds in summer as needed with either MSM Turf or Celsius, but not atrazine or weed-free-zone.
If your lawn is compacted, has a lot of thatch consider aerating it next May or so when the grass is actively growing.
Between now and next spring pull some soil samples from the lawn for analysis by the LSU AgCenter. - for baseline info and to check for any nutrient deficiency issues that might need to be addressed.
Lastly patience and persistence - it takes awhile to turn things around.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 2:04 pm to Hammond Tiger Fan
quote:
Would you mind providing a suggested application rate for each?
This is what I use but please read the label:
Sethoxydim Hi Yield Grass Killer 1oz. product + 1oz. surfactant per 1000sqft.

2,4D Ferti-lome Weed Free Zone 1.5oz. per 1000sqft

For Atrazine I use Weed Stop for lawns. This bottle will cover 3720sqft.

Posted on 10/7/20 at 3:17 pm to Geauxld Finger
I literally did this in my front yard and was the best decision I ever made. Centipede looks horrible compared to zoysia.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 3:35 pm to CrawDude
Can I put down sethoxydim now and then dimension or prodiamine the next day. Which is recommended of the two?
Posted on 10/7/20 at 3:42 pm to tigerlife36
quote:
I literally did this in my front yard
how many square feet? I've got ~9,500 SF and am really considering it. It just seems like to much of an area for me to use a sod cutter on.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 3:46 pm to Lsu111519
quote:
Can I put down sethoxydim now and then dimension or prodiamine the next day. Which is recommended of the two?
Yes you can. Dimension or Prodiamine - both are good. Prodiamine is a little cheaper than Dimension, comparing granular to granular. The spray version of Prodiamine is a good bit cheaper. Honestly I would put down the one you can get your hands on quickly - really need to get it out ASAP.
What are you wanting to kill with sethoxydim?
Posted on 10/7/20 at 3:53 pm to CrawDude
Crowfoot grass i want to kill. I already sprayed atrazine and weed free zone for some doveweed.
What is the produamine spray you recommend and do you recommend anywhere in the area or Northshore to buy the granular or spray. They don't have prodiamine at site one or keeling in Covington. If I put the granular down now would it was away with all the rain
What is the produamine spray you recommend and do you recommend anywhere in the area or Northshore to buy the granular or spray. They don't have prodiamine at site one or keeling in Covington. If I put the granular down now would it was away with all the rain
Posted on 10/7/20 at 4:17 pm to Lsu111519
quote:
Crowfoot grass i want to kill. I already sprayed atrazine and weed free zone for some doveweed
OK - sethoxydim is good for grassy weeds.
quote:
What is the produamine spray you recommend and do you recommend anywhere in the area or Northshore to buy the granular or spray. They don't have prodiamine at site one or keeling in Covington. If I put the granular down now would it was away with all the rain
Well I was going to recommend Site One in Mandeville. I ordered my spray Prodiamine on-line from here LINK. Using this spray version the cost per treatment is about $0.35/1000 sq ft ( if my math is correct) - if you have an average size residential lawn that bottle likely has about a 4 year supply. Using Site One’s price for granular Prodiamine (Stonewall) price is about $2/1000 sq ft of lawn, the price is in the same ball park for granular dimension but a bit higher.
Independent retail garden centers in BR carry this granular Dimension - I used it for a few years with excellent results, only switched to Site One LESCO products because of cheaper pricing.
LINK you should be able to find it in your area at garden centers, hardware stores, or feed&seed stores.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 4:39 pm to CrawDude
Can I wait until after rain to put stonewall or dimension down or do it tomorrow before rain in a granular
Posted on 10/7/20 at 4:51 pm to Lsu111519
quote:
Can I wait until after rain to put stonewall or dimension down or do it tomorrow before rain in a granular
I’d apply it before the rain. Label directions for both products state to water it in with at least 1/2 inch of water within 2 weeks of application - many winter weed seeds will be germinating within 2 weeks. Water will transport the herbicide onto and into the surface soil where weed seeds reside. Let the rain water it in for you.
Posted on 10/7/20 at 5:59 pm to CrawDude
quote:
I’d apply it before the rain
So no concern regarding the monsoon we are about to get? At what point should one worry about washout?
Posted on 10/7/20 at 7:16 pm to TheBoo
quote:
So no concern regarding the monsoon we are about to get? At what point should one worry about washout?
Well I think the odds are in your favor of applying prior to the forecasted heavy rain than not. There is at least one university article written on this and though it is not a definitive it provides useful info LINK.to help make that decision.
South LA soils are generally high in clay and organic matter which favor pre-emergent binding affinity with soil, plus Prodiamine shows high affinity for soil binding, simazine/atrazine the least affinity, and dithiopyr (Dimension) somewhere in the middle.
It is your call. If I had a sandy soil, with little organic matter, lots of non-vegetated areas, steep slopes and was applying simazine I’d might not apply prior to heavy rains. If I’m on the opposite end of that spectrum I’m inclined to apply.
I applied my pre-emergent 2 weeks ago - I have no plans to re-apply if I get a monsoon rain. But if you want to wait a couple days then do so - my main concern is soil temperatures are very close to many winter weed seeds germinating. I would not delay application much longer, and when you apply remember to water it in ASAP with at least a 1/2 inch of water (per label instructions).
This post was edited on 10/7/20 at 9:30 pm
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