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Duct replacement estimate
Posted on 8/5/24 at 6:11 pm
Posted on 8/5/24 at 6:11 pm
Looking to replace all the HVAC duct work and plenum in attic. Currently have 8” hard ducts that have seen their better days.
2000 sqft, hip roof, original 1980 construction duct work. In Baton Rouge.
Got one estimate of $10,300 to replace all with 8” flexible duct plus new 20x20x4 sheet metal plenum.
Lots and lots of labor intensive job. Willing to wait for Fall so workers won’t drop dead in my attic or rush job because they’re damn miserable up there.
Is the $10.3K fair, a deal or outrageous?
2000 sqft, hip roof, original 1980 construction duct work. In Baton Rouge.
Got one estimate of $10,300 to replace all with 8” flexible duct plus new 20x20x4 sheet metal plenum.
Lots and lots of labor intensive job. Willing to wait for Fall so workers won’t drop dead in my attic or rush job because they’re damn miserable up there.
Is the $10.3K fair, a deal or outrageous?
3
Posted on 8/5/24 at 6:59 pm to MDB
In what way have your rigid ducts seen their better days? I had my HVAC changed out last year which included a new plenum. I looked inside the rigid ducts when disconnected from the plenum and they were pristine inside - 1993 construction.
Rigid ducts can be resealed with mastic if leaking at the seams-joints and re-insulated without replacement. I would think that would be less expensive approach than replacement, though I could be wrong. Now if the rigid ducts are improperly sized for the HVAC tonnage, then that’s a different matter.
Rigid ducts can be resealed with mastic if leaking at the seams-joints and re-insulated without replacement. I would think that would be less expensive approach than replacement, though I could be wrong. Now if the rigid ducts are improperly sized for the HVAC tonnage, then that’s a different matter.
Posted on 8/5/24 at 7:38 pm to MDB
Chances are these guys will be in and out your house in one long day. Running flex duct is a piece of cake to do since it comes in boxes ready to run in 25 ft. lengths. In most cases I'd think one box of flex would be more than enough to make most of your runs to the ceiling registers from the plenum.
To me, smooth interior hard Joval pipe is far superior to that coiled up flex duct as far as clean air flow.
Look at it this way, the normal house will have about 8-10 drops (ceiling registers) in the house. At that rate you are being charged about $1,000 each to run from the plenum to the ceiling box, and to me that is ridiculous.
Shop around more.
Edited to add this: Wait until fall and let an A/C pro check the insulation on the existing ductwork. Chances are it may need to be cut off and replaced with a more modern type insulation. That way they can also check for damaged Joval pipe and replace as needed, check for sealed joints since all joints should have been screwed together and had a couple rows of tape to seal them when initially installed.
Unless you had some type water condensation issue that resulted in rust, those pipes should still be good to go. And as far as replacing the insulation, it is an easy job for the homeowner. The only specialty tool you will need is a stapler they use for sealing the insulation around the pipe and a few boxes of staples. The insulation comes in 1 in. thick rolls 4 ft. wide and 50 ft. long. Cut the size you need for the size pipe you are wrapping with enough extra to fold over itself and staple the seam shut. Rinse and repeat until done.
To me, smooth interior hard Joval pipe is far superior to that coiled up flex duct as far as clean air flow.
Look at it this way, the normal house will have about 8-10 drops (ceiling registers) in the house. At that rate you are being charged about $1,000 each to run from the plenum to the ceiling box, and to me that is ridiculous.
Shop around more.
Edited to add this: Wait until fall and let an A/C pro check the insulation on the existing ductwork. Chances are it may need to be cut off and replaced with a more modern type insulation. That way they can also check for damaged Joval pipe and replace as needed, check for sealed joints since all joints should have been screwed together and had a couple rows of tape to seal them when initially installed.
Unless you had some type water condensation issue that resulted in rust, those pipes should still be good to go. And as far as replacing the insulation, it is an easy job for the homeowner. The only specialty tool you will need is a stapler they use for sealing the insulation around the pipe and a few boxes of staples. The insulation comes in 1 in. thick rolls 4 ft. wide and 50 ft. long. Cut the size you need for the size pipe you are wrapping with enough extra to fold over itself and staple the seam shut. Rinse and repeat until done.
This post was edited on 8/5/24 at 7:46 pm
Posted on 8/5/24 at 8:56 pm to gumbo2176
I don’t plan on doing anything until at least late October so I have time to reinspect the ducts and rethink this project.
Thank y'all for input.
Thank y'all for input.
Posted on 8/6/24 at 2:07 pm to CrawDude
I have 25+ year old rigid ducts and resealed and re insulated one section earlier this summer due to condensation dripping from the register. It has solved the problem and I plan on doing additional sections when the weather cools off.
A few months ago, I only got one estimate to replace with flex and it was $9000. They said the disassembly and removal is a disproportionate part of that cost.
That is why I decided to reseal myself. I realized the duct work itself is in fine condition, it’s just the insulation and seal that has deteriorated in some areas.
A few months ago, I only got one estimate to replace with flex and it was $9000. They said the disassembly and removal is a disproportionate part of that cost.
That is why I decided to reseal myself. I realized the duct work itself is in fine condition, it’s just the insulation and seal that has deteriorated in some areas.
Posted on 8/6/24 at 4:14 pm to MDB
If you think it is warranted you can have a duct leakage test performed - same equipment used in a blower test to determine air filtration in a home. The registers are sealed, the ducts are pressurized and de-pressurized through the air return grill & leakage from, and into, the ducts determined at a specified pressure.
I had it done 3 years ago prior to my HVAC changeout, cost was $375 as I recall, anyway the results were very good, very low duct leakage. Much below code compliant level in LA. Again, rigid ducts installed when the house was built in 1993.
Any significant leakage can be repaired & rigid ducts can be re-insulated to higher standards than when the ducts were installed.
I had it done 3 years ago prior to my HVAC changeout, cost was $375 as I recall, anyway the results were very good, very low duct leakage. Much below code compliant level in LA. Again, rigid ducts installed when the house was built in 1993.
Any significant leakage can be repaired & rigid ducts can be re-insulated to higher standards than when the ducts were installed.
Posted on 8/6/24 at 5:52 pm to MDB
Winter job knock this out with a couple buddies. We taking a 5 hour job max
Posted on 8/9/24 at 7:43 am to Hamma1122
That seems really expensive for just ductwork. I got mine replaced about 5 years ago. They did it it conjunction with a new air conditioner install. The A/C and the duct work were $13k. Last year I had a new A/C and very extensive duct work installed on a house I just moved into and it was $17k altogether. I'd get some more quotes.
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