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Fastening To Brick
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:12 pm
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:12 pm
I'm going to use a masonry bit to drill into brick to attache a treated 2X4 to mate a fence to the wall. It was suggested that I use a hammer drill but I don't have one. Will I be okay drilling with a "regular" drill? I'm going to use Tapcon screws. Unless there's a better, suggested way. Thanks in advance for any advice and ideas.
ETA- Following the advice here I will not attach the fence to the brick. BUT, will it be okay if it's only 3 feet tall and only a 2X4 that the gate will latch too? So it wont support the weight of a fence but only a 3 foot 2X4.
ETA- Following the advice here I will not attach the fence to the brick. BUT, will it be okay if it's only 3 feet tall and only a 2X4 that the gate will latch too? So it wont support the weight of a fence but only a 3 foot 2X4.
This post was edited on 2/22/25 at 6:54 am
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:26 pm to Shanegolang
I would not attach a fence to the house. If you get a storm that takes down your fence, it will be taking part of your brick wall with it.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:32 pm to Shanegolang
1. I would not attach a fence to a house.
2. I had hell attaching a monster hose reel and eventually went with the wide, silver colored anchors with large thread spacing. I’ve only seen tapcons used to align framing but I haven’t worked construction in 20 years either.
2. I had hell attaching a monster hose reel and eventually went with the wide, silver colored anchors with large thread spacing. I’ve only seen tapcons used to align framing but I haven’t worked construction in 20 years either.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:40 pm to GeauxldMember
quote:
I would not attach a fence to the house
I should have clarified. It's just a 3 1/2 foot tall picket fence made from 8 foot panels. Good advice all the same, I may just opt for a post. Thanks. But as far as my other question, can I drill into brick using a regular drill versus a hammer drill? I may just opt for a cheap hammer drill from Harbor Freight.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:43 pm to Shanegolang
quote:
mate a fence to the wall.
Don't do this. You need to maintain at least an inch or two between the house and the wall. Set a post within an inch or two, then screw a picket hanging over the edge of the post to cover the gap.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:47 pm to Shanegolang
You could try your regular drill with a masonry bit and see if that works well enough. If not, jump in your car and head to Harbor Freight. The Hammer drill is a good tool to have for drilling and chiseling masonry, plus doing things like driving an 8' ground rod into the ground.
One cool thing I did at our current house aided by use of my hammer drill was to install an 8' ground rod. The prior owner had ran power out to a short power pole in part of our wooded yard surrounded by a long concrete drive circle (about 200' in diameter). I guess the prior owner buried the power before the driveway was poured. But he only ran two wires. I wanted to install some powered spot lights, string lights that I could control wirelessly, plus a powered WiFi camera. But I dang sure wanted a grounded GFCI circuit. So I went to Lowes and bought the 8' ground rod, #6 wire, ground lug and GFCI grounded outlet and lockable waterproof electrical box cover that I wanted. I grabbed my hammer drill and my step ladder and drove the ground rod into the ground using my hammer drill, installed everything and then had a grounded GFCI circuit to power my lights and camera. I used large waterproof electrical boxes to house outdoor power strips and remote wireless switches at strategic points in the circle and connected everything with underground wire.
One cool thing I did at our current house aided by use of my hammer drill was to install an 8' ground rod. The prior owner had ran power out to a short power pole in part of our wooded yard surrounded by a long concrete drive circle (about 200' in diameter). I guess the prior owner buried the power before the driveway was poured. But he only ran two wires. I wanted to install some powered spot lights, string lights that I could control wirelessly, plus a powered WiFi camera. But I dang sure wanted a grounded GFCI circuit. So I went to Lowes and bought the 8' ground rod, #6 wire, ground lug and GFCI grounded outlet and lockable waterproof electrical box cover that I wanted. I grabbed my hammer drill and my step ladder and drove the ground rod into the ground using my hammer drill, installed everything and then had a grounded GFCI circuit to power my lights and camera. I used large waterproof electrical boxes to house outdoor power strips and remote wireless switches at strategic points in the circle and connected everything with underground wire.
This post was edited on 2/17/25 at 7:18 pm
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:51 pm to Shanegolang
Will probably work if you have a good masonry bit, but I wouldn’t do it. I’d sink a post just off the wall and if you end up with an unsightly gap just fill it with a treated 1x or 2x.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 7:03 pm to Shanegolang
They have a serviceable hammer drill at Harbor Freight for less than $50. I bought one for a similar project and have used it to mount a flag, to reset gutter downspouts, to mount gate hinges, and some other stuff. Worth having around.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 8:34 pm to 98eagle
quote:use water, start rod, pour water down rod, push pull water repeat til she’s down.
install an 8' ground rod
Posted on 2/17/25 at 8:46 pm to White Bear
I have never had luck drilling into concrete unless I used a large hammer drill. The ones that look like the regular style Milwaukee corded drill never worked for me.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 9:10 pm to Shanegolang
If you don't use a hammer drill you are going to burn up that masonry bit.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 9:23 pm to Shanegolang
I used a regular drill but I went into the mortar. Used tapcon as well.
Posted on 2/18/25 at 2:37 am to Shanegolang
I did this recently when I attached some shutters to my house. I attached them with Tapcon screws and drilled the holes with a Tspcon bit with regular drill. I was able to get most in the mortar, but had to put a couple in the actual brick. It worked fine.
Posted on 2/18/25 at 8:36 am to meeple
quote:
I used a regular drill but I went into the mortar. Used tapcon as well.
You can get a regular drill to work, but like mentioned, it'll burn up the bit faster. Going into brick is easier than concrete.
If you haven't used tapcons before, just know you can't torque them down as tight as you can. You'll strip the brick out pretty easy. My preference for anchoring to brick is a good plastic anchor, although, I've never really had a tapcon or plastic anchor strip.
Posted on 2/18/25 at 8:43 am to diat150
quote:Luckily, he's not proposing to drill into concrete.
I have never had luck drilling into concrete
If he drills into the "mortar" he won't have any problem at all not using a hammer drill.
If he drills into the "brick" it will be quite a bit harder, but he can get there without a hammer drill. Going to burn up the bit but cheaper than buying a hammer drill.
Posted on 2/18/25 at 9:26 am to Shanegolang
On my brick walls I've never had any trouble using a regular drill, but my drill is pretty heavy duty. Through various exterior projects I've learned that I really know nothing about brick. Some types are very soft, and anchors pull out pretty quickly. Others are so hard that they are difficult to drill. Perforated bricks are common in facades, and I'd worry about long-term strength of an anchor. A very strong wind a couple of years ago pulled a decorative shutter off the house...Tapcons and all.
Posted on 2/19/25 at 3:40 am to Shanegolang
I’ve never had luck using a regular drill. A hammer drill makes the job so much easier.
Posted on 2/19/25 at 2:04 pm to Shanegolang
I wouldn't attach a fence, but every TV or flag pole i've attached to brick I drilled into the mortar. You can get away with using a masonry bit on a regular drill, but I wouldn't want to drill more than 2-3 holes that way.
Posted on 2/19/25 at 2:06 pm to Shanegolang
attaching a fence to a wall creates a really neat path for termites.
Posted on 2/19/25 at 5:53 pm to Shanegolang
You can mount a 2x4 to brick/block with confidence.
I have a 4x4's mounted with long tap cons on each side of my block house.
One 4x4 is hinged to one half of a double gate 6' high that gets plenty of use.
The other is connected to 5' length of 6' high fence - post - large gate.
The fence/gates are cedar. The 4x4's don't move & have been there for years. They have endured multiple hurricanes.
Irma tore the entire back fence down. 4x4's on the house and everything attached were good to go.
Milton took the roof & multiple trees. The fence/gate 4x4's mounted to the house were all unscathed. <-- Screwed every picket down with deck screws after Irma. Milton took all my neighbor's fences down.
Best of luck! Get a good impact & hammer drill, you will use them more than you think.
I have a 4x4's mounted with long tap cons on each side of my block house.
One 4x4 is hinged to one half of a double gate 6' high that gets plenty of use.
The other is connected to 5' length of 6' high fence - post - large gate.
The fence/gates are cedar. The 4x4's don't move & have been there for years. They have endured multiple hurricanes.
Irma tore the entire back fence down. 4x4's on the house and everything attached were good to go.
Milton took the roof & multiple trees. The fence/gate 4x4's mounted to the house were all unscathed. <-- Screwed every picket down with deck screws after Irma. Milton took all my neighbor's fences down.
Best of luck! Get a good impact & hammer drill, you will use them more than you think.
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