re: Fridge Tripping GFCI Breaker

Give us an update, there is a chance the issue is the breaker itself. I would also try plugging a fan or a blow drier into the fridge outlet and see if it trips the breaker.

You might also try one of these, you can get it for under $10

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/206212329?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&srsltid=AfmBOorsNtmvGx-MHuegQtsSzt4NZCqCEsY4xZHTDH5EFsQgsZ4wIUX-Dnw


Or one of theses for under $25

https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Electrical-Klein-Tools-RT250/dp/B08QW7K1JJ?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Turns out, internet is riddled with these dual function afci/gfci breakers not getting along with appliances, much more so than just if they were on independent gfi/afi devices.
As before, as long as your kitchen is equipped with 2x afi/gfi branch circuits for small appliances, then you can go with an afci-only breaker for a dedicated refrigerator circuit.
Do kitchen small appliance circuits use gfi breakers or do you have a couple outlets with buttons in there? The separation of afi and gfi on those circuits could explain why the fridge still works on those. Otherwise, wiring issue.

I don't want to jinx it, but I vacuumed out the coils and the bottom of the unit last night. I plugged it in about 20 minutes ago and it's still running.

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The breaker is GFCI Eaton - CHFN120DF

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That's also an arc fault breaker. Arc Fault are not good with changing amps or loads. A vacuum cleaner, fan, etc. Will trip it. Best to pull it out, replace with regular breaker, a GFCI receptacle is ok, but may not be needed on that circuit. Keep the arc fault breaker, they are pricey.

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That's also an arc fault breaker. Arc Fault are not good with changing amps or loads. A vacuum cleaner, fan, etc. Will trip it. Best to pull it out, replace with regular breaker, a GFCI receptacle is ok, but may not be needed on that circuit. Keep the arc fault breaker, they are pricey.

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No need for a GFCI for the fridge. Arc Fault breakers are now a code requirement for kitchen circuits. I would consider replacing the circuit breaker with an AFCI breaker but many people do replace them with simple breakers. It will not be an issue until you try to sell the house and probably not even then.

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No need for a GFCI for the fridge. Arc Fault breakers are now a code requirement for kitchen circuits. I would consider replacing the circuit breaker with an AFCI breaker but many people do replace them with simple breakers. It will not be an issue until you try to sell the house and probably not even then.

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That's why I tell folks, keep the arc fault breaker, in case they want them installed back. I'd install them back, right before moving out. Then when the problem reoccurs, tell them to call the guy that did the home inspection!
I only put regular breakers and receptacle on a frig, 20 amp.

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I'd install them back, right before moving out. Then when the problem reoccurs, tell them to call the guy that did the home inspection!

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Yeah, we take photos so that when stuff like that happens we have proof of who's at fault. Not a smart thing to do unless you want to get caught up in a lawsuit.

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First off. A gfci (ground fault circuit interceptor) senses current going to ground.

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GFCI stands for ground fault circuit interrupter. And it uses a differential CT to measure the differential current between hot and neutral, not hot and ground. If the ground wire is carrying any current at all that is likely a fault condition and will trip the breaker quickly. If there is differential current between the hot and neutral, that implies the current has taken a new path, likely water. That’s why it trips and is generally required in areas that have water potential like a kitchen, bathroom, or outdoor.

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Circuit breakers are heat activated.

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Standard breakers in a home panel will be thermal-magnetic, meaning they have an overload portion that is time-delayed and activated by heat as you describe. But the short circuit protection in the breaker is magnetic and will trip instantaneously.

To the OP, arc fault breakers are known for not getting along with some appliances and will continue to trip more often as they trip over time, meaning they get more sensitive the more they trip. If you know for sure your fridge is on a dedicated circuit, replace the breaker with a standard (without fault protection) one. If the fridge is in your garage replace the outlet with a GCFI outlet since this is considered an area that could get wet. Then you maintain ground fault protection in case of moisture and replace what is likely a temperamental breaker.

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Wait, so you're saying if it's put back to code, the seller is at fault? After the inspector says it's out of code?

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Inspector won't say it's out of code, they might note the deficiency as a potential safety issue and recommend a qualified electrician look into it. Potential buyer pays an electrician to come out and they find the issue doesn't exist, they question the inspector, inspector provides pictures showing the AFCI breaker wasn't present at the time of inspection then the Seller gets to explain the discrepancy.

I use a rugged Kodax PixPro, takes great inspection photos and I take lots of pictures of everything even if they aren't problems for CYA policy.

That's negotiated between buyer and seller under contract.