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Liquid dethatching

Posted on 4/19/25 at 1:12 pm
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
28288 posts
Posted on 4/19/25 at 1:12 pm
I have a St Aug yard at the camp. I pay someone to cut it. Over the last couple of years it has built up heavy thatch.

I have a Sun Joe I am going to take down for the mechanical side.

Have people seen benefits from chemical dethatching after mechanical? I plan to use one that feeds the microbes since I assume the lawn is already full of them, it is SELA ya know.

I plan to order D-thatch unless I get better suggestions or most think it is a waste. The cost and effort seem low so the results don't have to be miraculous just beneficial.

TIA
Posted by Ziggy
Member since Oct 2007
21863 posts
Posted on 4/19/25 at 5:05 pm to
IMO - I believe it is a waste of money for what it's labeled as. Chemical dethatching will NEVER replace mechanical.

Now...is it beneficial for improving soil and microbial health? Probably - but there are other biostimulants out there that you could use in lieu of D-thatch.

My 2 cents.
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
28288 posts
Posted on 4/19/25 at 7:13 pm to
quote:

Chemical dethatching will NEVER replace mechanical.


100% which is why I mentioned taking down my mechanical power rake. In reality it is hard to truly mechnically dethatch a yard. You are primarily removing debris. It you actually mechanically remove the majority of the real thatch layer (the brown fibrous material) you will remove a ton of the grass and roots in the process. I have a ton of debris built up that I need to get out to start promoting the actual biological breakdown of the thatch which is going to take a long time.

I have never had a thatch layer this thick, so I want to stimulate the microbiome to accelerate the natural breakdown of the actual thatch layer. I am just looking for the best thing to feed those critters.
Posted by Citica8
Duckroost, LA
Member since Dec 2012
3769 posts
Posted on 4/19/25 at 10:18 pm to
Mechanical dethatching allows air to get into enough area to wake up the existing microbes that will feed on the existing thatch that is there. A chemical dethatch just feeds those microbes already there, but its more of an instant thing vs a time released long term deal.

Doing both is definitely not going to hurt the turf. The question is, if mechanical alone improves the turf 50%, where chemical alone improves the turf 15%, does doing both yield a 60%, 65% or 80% improvement. Could be a "fun" experiment.

Fertilizing with something like milorganite after a mechanical dethatching will also feed the microbes, and is more time released/longer term option. This is the route I would take.
Posted by ronk
Member since Jan 2015
6901 posts
Posted on 4/19/25 at 11:29 pm to
Your 2 cents are worth a dollar. Spot on approach. Core aerate and put down some carbon/
Posted by PillageUrVillage
Mordor
Member since Mar 2011
15311 posts
Posted on 4/20/25 at 7:16 am to
I was under the impression that you shouldn’t dethatch St Aug cause it damages the runners and does more harm than good?

I guess maybe certain circumstances and conditions the benefits outweigh the risks?
Posted by tide06
Member since Oct 2011
16511 posts
Posted on 4/20/25 at 7:36 am to
quote:

I was under the impression that you shouldn’t dethatch St Aug cause it damages the runners and does more harm than good?

This is what I was told by UF turf grass.

Their recommendation was to core aerate and manually rake out debris if needed, but that dethatcher machines that are fine for Bermuda can destroy SA.
Posted by Citica8
Duckroost, LA
Member since Dec 2012
3769 posts
Posted on 4/20/25 at 8:52 am to
I must have glanced over the St Aug part. Thatch is not typically an issue with St Aug unless excessive thatch is contributing fungal "brown patch" issues. You're going to be better off aerating than dethatching

Generally its not recommended but dethatching can still be done on St Aug, if very careful. Time of year and after care becomes super important, but using a verti-cut with 3" spacing, and only in a single direction rather than a power rake with 1" spacing

Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
42983 posts
Posted on 4/20/25 at 10:01 am to
quote:

St Aug yard at the camp
quote:

dethatching
your definition of “camp” is obviously different from mine LOL
Posted by Art Vandelay
LOUISIANA
Member since Sep 2005
11150 posts
Posted on 4/20/25 at 10:07 am to
Find a core aerator
This post was edited on 4/20/25 at 10:08 am
Posted by ronk
Member since Jan 2015
6901 posts
Posted on 4/20/25 at 10:15 am to
Generally you don’t dethatch St Aug. I’ve done it once because the thatch layer was so dense.
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
28288 posts
Posted on 4/20/25 at 5:48 pm to
quote:

your definition of “camp” is obviously different from mine LOL


My definition would have probably matched with yours prior to meeting my wife and spending a bunch of time in SELA over the last 25 years but I have come to understand that people consider anything a camp if it is a second home, Running the gamut from a surplus FEMA trailer pulled up to a river to a 7,000 sq ft luxury home. IE every house on False River is a camp if it is used seasonally or sporadically. I see the same thing up here when people talk about their mountain cabin.



OK lets see if we can avoid me making a mistake, especially when it involves manual labor to make the mistake.

I don't want to write a book so I will try to keep it breif but hit the high points.

I don't know how thick the actual thatch layer is, I have not plugged it but I guarantee it is well over an inch. I also know that doesn't choke St Aug due to the stolens but my real issue is that it has a TON of debris in it.

It is spongy and not in the normal establish St Aug lawn, it is like walking on a Temper-Pedic matress. I have always loved the softness of a St Aug yard cut at 4 inches. It is my favorite look and foot feel for truf grass. I did the scalping and treatments this year and when I was scalping it was physical WORK to push the mower, it felt similar to pushing a mower with no wheels.

My plan is not to technically dethatch, I don't think my Sun Joe can even get to the thatch layer. I would probably have to rent a machine to get there but that is not what I am interested in and wouldn't do it on St Aug unless there was a real problem. Stolens aren't fussed pushing through thatch. I know what caused the thick debris layer and I will revisit it with my lawn guy but ne is the fourth one in the 17 years this lawn has been in and they all do what they want vs what I want. I know, I know but I am tired of trying.

My plan is to get debris out on the lowest setting. Follow up with a light power raking as often as I feel the grass can take it until I have the debris out.

The lawn has been in for ~17 years and always looked good to excellent. The debris is just becoming a problem. The grass looked good the last time I was there, a little slow coming out of dormancy but I chalked that up to the snow. It is getting some weed pressure on one side because a neighbor recontoured his lawn with some dirt that was "20% weed seeds" but other than that it is really the spongyness.

I understand the chemical dethatchers alone will likely do very little especially in the short term but for $40 for a years worth of applications it will at least make me feel like I am trying even if it is wasted money.

So the idea is to feed the critters that munch on debris and thatch, if I scratch their back maybe they will scratch mine.

So two questions:

1. Does anyone think I am going to ruin my lawn with shallow debris removal

2. best product to accelerate the micro-biome that helps break down the thatch/debris

TIY

Posted by Citica8
Duckroost, LA
Member since Dec 2012
3769 posts
Posted on 4/20/25 at 9:43 pm to
If you are on top of the aftercare, then mechanical dethatching can be done on St. Aug, I would probably still go the route of core aeration and follow up with the chemical dethatch. This will break up some of the thatch, increase drainage, and allow you to feed the microbes more efficiently.

The chemical route is pretty much molasses, milorganite fertilizer also feeds the microbes, doing both after aeration will improve the soil health without harming the turf
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