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Posted on 5/24/23 at 3:58 pm
Posted on 5/24/23 at 3:58 pm
(no message)
This post was edited on 1/28/25 at 5:43 pm
13
Posted on 5/24/23 at 4:00 pm to lnomm34
Not so
Subtle brag
Subtle brag
Posted on 5/24/23 at 4:00 pm to lnomm34
go get a grease gun
go get a set of chocks, or a chain fall, or some jacks so that you can change the blades
go get a set of chocks, or a chain fall, or some jacks so that you can change the blades
Posted on 5/24/23 at 4:01 pm to cgrand
(no message)
This post was edited on 1/28/25 at 5:43 pm
Posted on 5/24/23 at 4:02 pm to poochie
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This post was edited on 1/28/25 at 5:42 pm
Posted on 5/24/23 at 4:06 pm to lnomm34
one a year at least.
not sure about the liberty but on my turf tiger you have to raise the mower up all the way on the rear tires. i use a chain fall to crank it up
not sure about the liberty but on my turf tiger you have to raise the mower up all the way on the rear tires. i use a chain fall to crank it up
Posted on 5/24/23 at 4:32 pm to poochie
What is best/easiest way to access under mower? What kind of jacks are best?
Posted on 5/24/23 at 4:34 pm to lnomm34
Always keep a spare belt, set of wheel bearings, spindle, idler pulley.
Buy a grease gun. Depending upon your motor, I only run 15w40 rotella in the old scag with the kawasaki. Only run mobil1 0w40 in anything with a briggs motor.
Check your filter, you can get oversized versions with the same flow rate and bypass pressure for usually 20% of the oem filters.
I change air filter, deck belt, and blades once a year. But I'm mowing about 1500 acres a season. And I don't stop for anything short of a concrete block
When you finally kill the front tires... Go solid tire. When you finally kill the rear, get some with grip.
I spend about 150 bucks a year on maintenance. Spindles last 3 years or so.
Proper zero turns for home use are the definition of overkill. And it's great.
Even I just question the downvotes?
You can fix anything on a zero turn that actually breaks in under an hour as long as you have the parts on hand. Keep the things I have listed and your mower will never be down for more than an hour. I don't even keep spark plugs on hand but then again I do run wide open throttle.
Buy a grease gun. Depending upon your motor, I only run 15w40 rotella in the old scag with the kawasaki. Only run mobil1 0w40 in anything with a briggs motor.
Check your filter, you can get oversized versions with the same flow rate and bypass pressure for usually 20% of the oem filters.
I change air filter, deck belt, and blades once a year. But I'm mowing about 1500 acres a season. And I don't stop for anything short of a concrete block
When you finally kill the front tires... Go solid tire. When you finally kill the rear, get some with grip.
I spend about 150 bucks a year on maintenance. Spindles last 3 years or so.
Proper zero turns for home use are the definition of overkill. And it's great.
Even I just question the downvotes?
You can fix anything on a zero turn that actually breaks in under an hour as long as you have the parts on hand. Keep the things I have listed and your mower will never be down for more than an hour. I don't even keep spark plugs on hand but then again I do run wide open throttle.
This post was edited on 5/24/23 at 5:05 pm
Posted on 5/24/23 at 5:56 pm to lnomm34
Not sure how the blades are fastened on the Scag, but on the Gravely, it's just a large nut. Get a pneumatic impact or one of the heavy duty battery impacts to get them on and off. A normal screw driving Dewalt impact won't budge the nuts. If you try to use a wrench, you have to figure out how to prevent the blades from turning while you loosen the nut. I'm able to pull the blades and sharpen them, then put them back on in about 15-20 min.
You need to sharpen them when you notice stragglers after you mow. My lawn mower was so dull I might have well been mowing with a spinning piece of rebar. After sharpening them, nothing is left behind. I have rocks in my yard and sure as hell hit one about every time I mow, so I had to get efficient at sharpening.
Other than that, just stay on top of the maintenance oil change and air filter cleaning. The Kawasaki engine on mine has held up well for about 8 years now. Honestly wish the thing would bite the dust because I want a suspension seat and I won't put one on this mower. I get beat to hell on my property and it takes about 2 hours of riding that thing to get the whole property mowed.
You need to sharpen them when you notice stragglers after you mow. My lawn mower was so dull I might have well been mowing with a spinning piece of rebar. After sharpening them, nothing is left behind. I have rocks in my yard and sure as hell hit one about every time I mow, so I had to get efficient at sharpening.
Other than that, just stay on top of the maintenance oil change and air filter cleaning. The Kawasaki engine on mine has held up well for about 8 years now. Honestly wish the thing would bite the dust because I want a suspension seat and I won't put one on this mower. I get beat to hell on my property and it takes about 2 hours of riding that thing to get the whole property mowed.
This post was edited on 5/24/23 at 5:58 pm
Posted on 5/24/23 at 6:19 pm to WhiskeyThrottle
quote:
Kawasaki engine on mine has held up well for about 8 years now.
Thin oil or thick oil?
Posted on 5/24/23 at 7:03 pm to lnomm34
3/8 cordless impact is great for removing and installing blades
Posted on 5/24/23 at 7:56 pm to lnomm34
20W50 Motor Oil in the Kawasaki Engine. 20hrs for break in and 50hours or once a year for reg oil changes. Spindles are sealed bearings so you pretty much just run the until they're screaming then replace the bearings. Change the air filter annually.
Keep the deck clean, blow it off after mowing and just make sure it's not getting clogged underneath with wet grass. You can probably just change the blades once a year and you'll be good.
The Liberty Z is an awesome residential Z and has so few issues that bring it back to the shop for repair. You'll be happy for many years with this purchase.
Keep the deck clean, blow it off after mowing and just make sure it's not getting clogged underneath with wet grass. You can probably just change the blades once a year and you'll be good.
The Liberty Z is an awesome residential Z and has so few issues that bring it back to the shop for repair. You'll be happy for many years with this purchase.
Posted on 5/24/23 at 8:03 pm to WilsonPickett
(no message)
This post was edited on 1/28/25 at 5:42 pm
Posted on 5/25/23 at 7:17 am to lnomm34
Change the engine oil in the first 10 hours.
Every 50 hours thereafter.
I would recommend Kawasaki 20w50.
Shot of grease in fittings at oil change.
Inspect/blowout/replace air filter.
I have a Scag Patriot with 300 hours and it has been trouble free. I have sharpened/replaced the blades many times.
Still on the same belt.
Take covers/guards off belt pulley’s and blow out clippings off top of deck and belt run.
Every 50 hours thereafter.
I would recommend Kawasaki 20w50.
Shot of grease in fittings at oil change.
Inspect/blowout/replace air filter.
I have a Scag Patriot with 300 hours and it has been trouble free. I have sharpened/replaced the blades many times.
Still on the same belt.
Take covers/guards off belt pulley’s and blow out clippings off top of deck and belt run.
Posted on 5/25/23 at 8:15 am to jake wade
(no message)
This post was edited on 1/28/25 at 5:42 pm
Posted on 5/25/23 at 8:17 am to lnomm34
the first time you gouge that orange paint you’re gonna be bummed. Let it go LOL
Posted on 5/25/23 at 9:03 am to lnomm34
quote:Imagine being anxious and raring to go to cut grass! LOL
Anxiously waiting for the grass to dry out to give it a go!
Posted on 5/25/23 at 9:15 am to cgrand
(no message)
This post was edited on 1/28/25 at 5:41 pm
Posted on 5/25/23 at 9:15 am to Tigers4Lyfe
(no message)
This post was edited on 1/28/25 at 5:41 pm
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