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Opinions on Spray Foam Insulation in New Construction
Posted on 5/1/20 at 4:45 pm
Posted on 5/1/20 at 4:45 pm
What is everyone’s experience been with spray foam insulation?
I hear all kinds of mixed reviews.
I’m considering
A) foam walls and rafters w/ high efficiency ac
B) foam rafters only fiberglass walls w/ high efficiency ac
C) fiberglass the whole thing w/ high efficiency ac
I’m in South Louisiana and the house has a full dose of sun most of the day. I did some mid-high end E66 vinyl windows.
I have a friend that has come full circle on the spray foam. Says its more the windows and AC than anything else.
Others swear by the spray foam but don’t give credit to the AC. I’ve heard of people just doing the high efficiency AC and it cut their electric bill in half.
I hear all kinds of mixed reviews.
I’m considering
A) foam walls and rafters w/ high efficiency ac
B) foam rafters only fiberglass walls w/ high efficiency ac
C) fiberglass the whole thing w/ high efficiency ac
I’m in South Louisiana and the house has a full dose of sun most of the day. I did some mid-high end E66 vinyl windows.
I have a friend that has come full circle on the spray foam. Says its more the windows and AC than anything else.
Others swear by the spray foam but don’t give credit to the AC. I’ve heard of people just doing the high efficiency AC and it cut their electric bill in half.
11
Posted on 5/1/20 at 4:54 pm to tigereye58
Will make your house quieter too. The $ savings on electricity probably has a long break even point.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 5:04 pm to tigereye58
Best decision I made along with tankless water heater. Wasn't planning on doing either going in but I'm so glad I did.
My bill is half of my previous house with additional 1200 sq ft. My previous house was only 10 years too.
My upstairs never gets too hot or too cold like some 2 story homes.
My bill is half of my previous house with additional 1200 sq ft. My previous house was only 10 years too.
My upstairs never gets too hot or too cold like some 2 story homes.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 5:06 pm to jimbeam
Seal it up with foam to much and you will have other regrets. House has to be able to breathe somewhat.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 5:09 pm to tigereye58
I had a builder tell me he avoids spray foam in the walls because he has to cut vents afterwards to provide the proper amount of airflow. Most people think that sealing your house completely is a good thing but you need a certain amount of air transferring from outside... This is in Florida so hot and humid makes a difference too.
I'm like you, confused about it and feel unable to make an informed decision because of so much conflicting information out there.
I'm like you, confused about it and feel unable to make an informed decision because of so much conflicting information out there.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 5:23 pm to humblepie
Alabama here. Have it. Love it. 4300 sqft house is cheaper to cool and heat than my 1440 sqft house was. Dehumidifier and air system vents proper air flow in.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 5:25 pm to humblepie
If you ever watch Matt Risinger on YouTube who builds in Austin, he builds his houses practically air tight. I don’t see the point and there has to be a very long ROI on that.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 6:04 pm to tigereye58
If I was building new and was going to install a high efficiency multistage HVAC with ducts and air handler in the attic I would spray foam the attic rafters or as a less expensive alternative to spray foam have a radiant barrier installed in the attic during construction combined with traditional fiberglass/cellulose insulation. Being able to drop attic temperature 25 to 30 degree + in the peak of summer is a condition where you are able to have your high efficiency HVAC system with equipment in the attic shine.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 8:59 pm to Canvasback
quote:
Seal it up with foam to much and you will have other regrets. House has to be able to breathe somewhat.
The HVAC should have a valve that allows outside air in when pressure changes.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 9:09 pm to tigereye58
I go with option A.I have done spray foam now on 4 personal houses over the last 10 years and I will do it on the next if there is one. The biggest thing is to make sure you have an HVAC company that is well versed in dealing with it. I use Central Heating and Air in Baton Rouge and the guy did a manual j calculation and made sure that there was fresh air intakes to keep the house from becoming stale. One of the best benefits is that my attic stays about 8 degrees warmer than my house all year, it makes for great storage. I did add a dehumidifier to the attic to take the moisture out since there is no return up there. ($140 on ebay) and my house stays at 45% humidity.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 10:36 pm to tigereye58
Best decision I made on my build. Trane variable speed is a beast. Electricity bills in the 80 to 90 dollar range.
Posted on 5/1/20 at 10:58 pm to tigereye58
If you spray foam in between the rafters how would you trace a roof leak?
Posted on 5/1/20 at 11:22 pm to tigereye58
Foam is a poor sound attenuating choice. It really isn't that great for above grade applications. It is the best option for rim joists, crawl space, basements, etc.
You are better off with blown cellulose or fiberglass above ground. Never use Batts.
You are better off with blown cellulose or fiberglass above ground. Never use Batts.
This post was edited on 5/1/20 at 11:24 pm
Posted on 5/2/20 at 6:51 am to tigereye58
quote:
B) foam rafters only fiberglass walls w/ high efficiency ac
Posted on 5/2/20 at 7:35 am to TygerDurden
They use open cell and the leak will drip right through. Ask me how I know 
Posted on 5/2/20 at 8:09 am to CrawDude
quote:
radiant barrier installed in the attic during construction
I thought this was pretty standard now. They just get roof decking with it on the underside and it adds next to nothing to the cost of the build as there is ZERO additional labor. That alone will lowers the attic temp 15-20 degrees.
Posted on 5/2/20 at 11:51 am to tigereye58
if you are doing it yourself be sure not to go too crazy around windows and doors. it will expand and push on the jambs of doors and the frames of windows (vinyl especially) and create operating issues. if someone else is doing it just keep an eye out for it before the sheetrock goes up because it will create issues.
Posted on 5/2/20 at 12:56 pm to TheGodfather
quote:
if you are doing it yourself be sure not to go too crazy around windows and doors. it will expand and push on the jambs of doors and the frames of windows (vinyl especially) and create operating issues. if someone else is doing it just keep an eye out for it before the sheetrock goes up because it will create issues.
It’ll also push wiring out past the studs. They mill off the excess to the face of the studs and the milling device can get into the wiring and compromise the insulation.
Posted on 5/2/20 at 7:44 pm to tigereye58
We have option B and don’t regret it one bit. We did spray foam on roof rafters and pro pink in walls which is a blown in product. My attic is roughly 5 degrees different in temp than inside house. My one suggestion with this route would be to add a whole home dehumidifier to hvac system. We experienced some moisture in one of our duct runs but a dehumidifier solved the problem.
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