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Question about prodiamine pre-emergent
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:00 am
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:00 am
I'm a novice in zone 8a with bermuda. It's not AWFUL but I've got enough issues with weeds that I know I need to take the next step. I've never applied a preemergent but I know that's next on my list and I plan to apply in the fall before dormancy as well as spring. From googling it looks like something with prodiamine is just what I need but I've got a question about the amount. Two of the top brands I see are Andersons Barricade and Qualipro but there are massive differences in the amount or prodiamine; BArricade says it contains 0.48% prodiamine while Qualipro contains 65%. Taht is an enormous gap.
In your opinion does Barricade work fine for moderate issues? The price is also a big difference with Quali pro beign more than double the cost.
In your opinion does Barricade work fine for moderate issues? The price is also a big difference with Quali pro beign more than double the cost.
3
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:21 am to WG_Dawg
65% is Prodiamine WDG (water dispersible granules), which is basically a fine powder that you mix with water in a sprayer and apply the solution by spray.
The 0.48% is a granular formulation - ie you load this in a broadcast spreader like you would regular granular fertilizer, and apply per application rates.
The reason for difference in cost is because the WDG is a significantly higher amount of active ingredient. Higher upfront cost but more coverage for your money in the long run.
As to your 2nd question, yes prodiamine is one of the preferred pre-emergents often recommended on this board.
Edit: you can check your local Lowes for Lesco Stonewall, which is a granular Prodiamine formula ( LINK).
The 0.48% is a granular formulation - ie you load this in a broadcast spreader like you would regular granular fertilizer, and apply per application rates.
The reason for difference in cost is because the WDG is a significantly higher amount of active ingredient. Higher upfront cost but more coverage for your money in the long run.
As to your 2nd question, yes prodiamine is one of the preferred pre-emergents often recommended on this board.
Edit: you can check your local Lowes for Lesco Stonewall, which is a granular Prodiamine formula ( LINK).
This post was edited on 7/24/23 at 10:25 am
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:22 am to WG_Dawg
it’s a math issue. The qualpro is granular that you mix with water and surfactant. Barricade is granular you spread with a spreader in dry form.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:24 am to Sir Saint
quote:
As to your 2nd question, yes prodiamine is one of the preferred pre-emergents often recommended on this board.
ok that's great to hear. I guess I was a little concerned about Barricade and the very small amoutn of the active incredient. Anothe rquestion I thought of; what can happen if you apply too mjuch? Will it discolor the grass?
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:28 am to poochie
quote:
it’s a math issue. The qualpro is granular that you mix with water and surfactant. Barricade is granular you spread with a spreader in dry form
thanks I didn't realize that originally.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:28 am to WG_Dawg
quote:
I guess I was a little concerned about Barricade and the very small amoutn of the active incredient.
this is a non issue. The application rate on the bag will ensure that you are applying the correct amount of active ingredient per 1000 sq. ft. The recommended total amount of prodiamine that is applied to the lawn will be the same, regardless of which formula you choose.
quote:
Will it discolor the grass?
If you're pretty close to the recommended range, no. If you sprinkle 65% powder directly onto the grass, possibly? lol idk. Just stick to the labeled rates and you'll be fine
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:31 am to Sir Saint
Perfect thanks! Sorry one more quesiton ha. In reading it looks like it's the norm to put down a preemergent in the fall, as well as one int he spring before ht eweeds start popping up. But I just saw an article that said the following: "When temperatures drop below 55 in fall, prodiamine shouldn’t be applied because it won’t stay in the ground long enough to last until the next spring."
I know that the spring application is going to be the biggie, but would putting one down int eh fall do anythign or would it just be a waste?
I know that the spring application is going to be the biggie, but would putting one down int eh fall do anythign or would it just be a waste?
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:38 am to WG_Dawg
The Bermuda Bible says today is always a good day to put down preE….
If you look at the label it lists how long you’d have weed controls vs the amount you put down. (By the acre so more math).
Fwiw, I use the qualpro prodiamine and it comes out to $6.05 per application for 15,000SF. So it’s not that much of a “waste” even if it does nothing.
Barricade, though, will cost almost $100 for that same application.
If you look at the label it lists how long you’d have weed controls vs the amount you put down. (By the acre so more math).
Fwiw, I use the qualpro prodiamine and it comes out to $6.05 per application for 15,000SF. So it’s not that much of a “waste” even if it does nothing.
Barricade, though, will cost almost $100 for that same application.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:40 am to WG_Dawg
pre-emergent herbicides are meant to prevent germination of seeds. They therefore will only help with annual weeds (which die every year, drop seeds, and grow back the next year from said seeds). Fall applications prevent weeds which germinate in winter months, and spring application prevents weeds that germinate in spring/early summer. Both are important.
I'd suggest to take the max application rate per year, divide that by 2, then apply first half in the fall and second half in the spring.
I'd suggest to take the max application rate per year, divide that by 2, then apply first half in the fall and second half in the spring.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 10:50 am to Sir Saint
Thank you all!
Posted on 7/24/23 at 11:54 am to poochie
quote:A couple questions for you. Where do you purchase your quali-pro prodiamine from? Also, what rate do you mix it at to see the results you want? Thanks!
Fwiw, I use the qualpro prodiamine and it comes out to $6.05 per application for 15,000SF. So it’s not that much of a “waste” even if it does nothing.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 12:45 pm to WG_Dawg
Take the maximum yearly application rate which should be like .9 per 1000 ft2 or something close and split it in two. For 65 WGD this leaves me at around .46 per 1000 ft2. Apply half in November. This is the most important application by far. It stops the winter weeds which plague your lawn early spring. Then apply the other half in late February. If you need an extra kick of pre emergent just find one with a different active ingredient. I can give you some recommendations but dithyropyr is a good one.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 1:04 pm to WG_Dawg
quote:
In reading it looks like it's the norm to put down a preemergent in the fall, as well as one int he spring before ht eweeds start popping up. But I just saw an article that said the following: "When temperatures drop below 55 in fall, prodiamine shouldn’t be applied because it won’t stay in the ground long enough to last until the next spring."
What they’re basically saying is that you would have already missed your fall window to use pre-emergents if your average soil temp is 55. The pre-emergent only works for a few months depending on your application rate. That’s why you reapply in spring.
Seeds generally germinate within the 55-70 degree range. Your fall pre-emergent application (when the weather is cooling) should occur when the average soil temp reaches 70 degrees. Conversely, your spring application (when the weather is warming) should occur when the average soil temp reaches 55 degrees.
If you get these two numbers mixed up, then you’ve missed your window and the seeds have already begun to germinate.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 1:14 pm to AFtigerFan
quote:
A couple questions for you. Where do you purchase your quali-pro prodiamine from? Also, what rate do you mix it at to see the results you want? Thanks!
https://www.domyown.com/prodiamine-65-wdg-generic-barricade-p-2495.html?pdpv=2
Here's where I got mine from.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 1:33 pm to AFtigerFan
quote:
Also, what rate do you mix it at to see the results you want?
For a split application, I mix 1.5 teaspoons per 1 gallon of water, per 1000 sq ft.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 1:56 pm to Sir Saint
quote:
For a split application, I mix 1.5 teaspoons per 1 gallon of water, per 1000 sq ft.
I understand the concentration...but how do you make sure you only cover 1000 sq ft (or less)? Do you walk it off and section it off in your mind? I've never really gotten scientific with the stuff, and I'm probably not putting down enough as a result.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 2:53 pm to NASA_ISS_Tiger
How many sq ft are you talking about here?
For mine, I spray WDG in my front yard with 2 gallon handcan since it's only 2,000 sq ft. I have a constant flow valve to keep the amount of product coming from the wand consistent. With my current setup and teejet nozzle, I learned that at a normal walking pace I cover about 1k sq ft per gallon. You could always test this yourself - section off a 32x32 area and walk it with your sprayer to see how much you're putting down.
I do granular in my back yard cause it's over 15k sq ft and I just find it easier for the large area, also don't feel like buying a backpack sprayer just to spray prodiamine.
For mine, I spray WDG in my front yard with 2 gallon handcan since it's only 2,000 sq ft. I have a constant flow valve to keep the amount of product coming from the wand consistent. With my current setup and teejet nozzle, I learned that at a normal walking pace I cover about 1k sq ft per gallon. You could always test this yourself - section off a 32x32 area and walk it with your sprayer to see how much you're putting down.
I do granular in my back yard cause it's over 15k sq ft and I just find it easier for the large area, also don't feel like buying a backpack sprayer just to spray prodiamine.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 3:40 pm to Sir Saint
i do the same but with a boom sprayer towed behind my zero turn. I know that at a little faster than idle speed i cover about 15ksf and go through about 15 gallons. if i have extra left i just make a few more passes or expand my area.
It looks like i've been putting down 6.8oz in 15 gallons of prodiamine which is .453 oz/gal. That looks like it's about half of the yearly max of 0.83 oz/KSF.
That comes out to $0.89/KSF/Application.
It looks like i've been putting down 6.8oz in 15 gallons of prodiamine which is .453 oz/gal. That looks like it's about half of the yearly max of 0.83 oz/KSF.
That comes out to $0.89/KSF/Application.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 7:19 pm to Sir Saint
quote:
How many sq ft are you talking about here?
For mine, I spray WDG in my front yard with 2 gallon handcan since it's only 2,000 sq ft. I have a constant flow valve to keep the amount of product coming from the wand consistent. With my current setup and teejet nozzle, I learned that at a normal walking pace I cover about 1k sq ft per gallon. You could always test this yourself - section off a 32x32 area and walk it with your sprayer to see how much you're putting down.
I do granular in my back yard cause it's over 15k sq ft and I just find it easier for the large area, also don't feel like buying a backpack sprayer just to spray prodiamine.
It's a 1/2 acre lot. The back is about 8900 sq ft (based off Google Earth calculations) and the front is ~2000 sq ft). So like yours in the front and about 1/2 of your back.
What granular do you use in the back? I need something good pre-emergent because I have dallisgrass BAD.
Posted on 7/24/23 at 7:24 pm to NASA_ISS_Tiger
quote:
It's a 1/2 acre lot. The back is about 8900 sq ft (based off Google Earth calculations) and the front is ~2000 sq ft).
Congrats on the 1 story ~11k sq ft house.
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