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re: Replacement windows - what’s the cost now?
Posted on 2/2/22 at 9:52 am to Count deMonet
Posted on 2/2/22 at 9:52 am to Count deMonet
Just got two quotes for new windows on my house- Relief Windows and Window World. ~1850 sqft in BR
16 windows total, but both companies combined two triple-windows and a double-window into one large window, decreasing the total number of windows down to 11.
Both companies were selling basically the same window. Vinyl window, white, no custom shapes or anything.
Relief wanted $11,000 before the "commit now" 10% discount
WW wanted $6400
The choice for me was easy...
16 windows total, but both companies combined two triple-windows and a double-window into one large window, decreasing the total number of windows down to 11.
Both companies were selling basically the same window. Vinyl window, white, no custom shapes or anything.
Relief wanted $11,000 before the "commit now" 10% discount
WW wanted $6400
The choice for me was easy...
This post was edited on 2/2/22 at 9:53 am
Posted on 2/2/22 at 7:16 pm to Count deMonet
I used Wholesale Siding in Jefferson this past September. I had 8 single-pane aluminum frame windows replaced as well as my front door converted from a plain door to a single door with side lights (original construction had panels between the door and brick) and replaced a sliding patio door with an outswinging patio door. Total cost was around $8,500 for the doors and windows.
Posted on 2/3/22 at 7:36 am to FeeshTacos
quote:
WW wanted $6400
Just remember that you get what you pay for. Watch the installation with an eagle eye.
This post was edited on 2/4/22 at 7:29 am
Posted on 2/4/22 at 7:27 am to bluemoons
quote:
argon filled
Some unsolicited advice from someone who makes a lot of insulating glass, if argon is added as a line item, don't "upgrade" to it. Some manufacturers have it included in their standard package, so you can't strike it, but others add it as a "premium" up-sell option, and it's not worth it, especially in the south. It only gains you a few points in the u-value category and is generally not a financially prudent choice.
Low-e is worth it, however, especially low-e with a SHGC <0.40. There is no reason these days not to go with low-e. The only downside with low-e comes when it's time to replace the glass because it breaks or loses it's seal. Each flat glass supplier has their own "recipe" or sorts, and it can translate to various tints. Some are more purple, others more grey, and some more green.
Posted on 2/5/22 at 1:02 am to BottomlandBrew
That's not entirely true. The vacuum process of inserting argon into an ig unit is almost more valuable than the argon itself in that it removes the air trapped inside the ig at the point of assembly, which has impurities in it, therefore delaying corrosion. Most window companies that make their own igs and warranty them will insert argon into the window regardless of whether or not it is a selected option believe it or not because if this, a non gas filled unit will fail sooner than a gas filled unit. This is especially true of windows manufactured in the south central and Southern region. ( check out energy star version 6 document for definitions of these regions.) You are correct though, the argon itself effects Uvalue or insulation value which is not as important in southern regions as northern. Your window has to have less than .25 shgc to even qualify for energy star in southern region. So anything close to .4 pretty much sucks. You should be in the low to high .20s for the glass itself and the window's shgc should be somewhere between .19 and .22 if you have a window worth a damn for thermal performance for the southern region. Lower than that only comes with significant loss of visible transmittance. Pretty much all non tinted loe ("clear loe") is green by nature as it is deposited layers of silver on the glass. Other colors are result of other additives.
If you replace your windows and you aren't getting the best loe you can get in the southern region you are wasting your money, pretty much the only thing that matters down here is the loe glass performance (lowest shgc possible) and the installer and the installation warranty. To be clear, not the window warranty, that barely matters at all, lifetime window warranties from manufacturers are worthless and exclude improper installation, the window itself will not fail unless you are dealing with a clown company, the installation is what fails. I have worked for multiple major manufacturers in the central region of the south.
If you replace your windows and you aren't getting the best loe you can get in the southern region you are wasting your money, pretty much the only thing that matters down here is the loe glass performance (lowest shgc possible) and the installer and the installation warranty. To be clear, not the window warranty, that barely matters at all, lifetime window warranties from manufacturers are worthless and exclude improper installation, the window itself will not fail unless you are dealing with a clown company, the installation is what fails. I have worked for multiple major manufacturers in the central region of the south.
This post was edited on 2/5/22 at 1:14 am
Posted on 2/5/22 at 5:29 am to Count deMonet
I'm not in the window manufacturing business as some here are, but I can say with certainty a few things about installations.
Replacement windows are completely inferior to "new construction" windows. New construction windows have nailing fins tied into the WRB/sheathing of your house. The replacement units require cutting out the old units and installing new units with no fin. The new units are completely dependent on sealant/caulk to keep water out.
If you have lap siding or some other non-brick cladding, I would highly recommend removing the trim around the windows, if possible, and installing another new construction unit. The installation and life of windows installed this way are much more forgiving and durable.
All of that said, I have used local installers from Pella, Anderson, and Relief. I would use relief 100% of the time.
Replacement windows are completely inferior to "new construction" windows. New construction windows have nailing fins tied into the WRB/sheathing of your house. The replacement units require cutting out the old units and installing new units with no fin. The new units are completely dependent on sealant/caulk to keep water out.
If you have lap siding or some other non-brick cladding, I would highly recommend removing the trim around the windows, if possible, and installing another new construction unit. The installation and life of windows installed this way are much more forgiving and durable.
All of that said, I have used local installers from Pella, Anderson, and Relief. I would use relief 100% of the time.
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