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Spray Foaming a crawl space suggestions?
Posted on 8/2/22 at 10:33 am
Posted on 8/2/22 at 10:33 am
I'm helping an ignorant friend re do his insulation in his crawl space and I'm ignorant on spray foam. If the house was batt insulation, is there anything to know or make sure the contractors do in order to get the crawlspace spray foamed?
I thought I remember reading where you need to be careful adding spray foam when its not planned in the construction due to the air moment or lack there of? If the attic is not sprayed and neither are the walls, any issues just doing the crawlspace? The contractors are saying there's no need for an additional vapor barrier as the spray foam itself does that, is that correct?
I thought I remember reading where you need to be careful adding spray foam when its not planned in the construction due to the air moment or lack there of? If the attic is not sprayed and neither are the walls, any issues just doing the crawlspace? The contractors are saying there's no need for an additional vapor barrier as the spray foam itself does that, is that correct?
8
Posted on 8/2/22 at 10:44 am to baldona
You might find information in this report of some help Insulating raised floors in hot, humid climates
Posted on 8/2/22 at 10:44 am to baldona
Curious about this is I bought an old housewife crawlspace. I assume you are foaming the underside of the floor? Is there electrical under there? Do you just foam over it?
Posted on 8/2/22 at 11:14 am to CrawDude
quote:
You might find information in this report of some help
Can I get the Cliff Notes? We got 3 quotes from Spray Foam companies, all pretty close. None brought up any issues. Basically said yep we can do it here's the price.
Posted on 8/2/22 at 11:40 am to AtticusOSullivan
quote:
I bought an old housewife
Interesting.
Posted on 8/2/22 at 11:59 am to baldona
spray foam will create vapor barriers. make sure the vapor barrier is at the correct location for your climate. You dont want to trap water in the wrong spot.
Posted on 8/2/22 at 12:22 pm to baldona
We have an old raised home. Have loose cellulose insulation in attic and walls. We sprayed closed cell under the floor last year in an effort to help control the air movement and humidity. It helped the air movement tremendously, but not so much the humidity. Without opening up the walls to reinsulate there, we'll always have this issue.
Was it worth it? Eh maybe. Will is save us money in the long run on energy bills? Probably never break even. Is it more comfortable on a cold day? Definitely.
ETA: If you're in south LA, I'd wait til the October/November for the natural moisture content of your subfloor to reduce. Also, if you don't have a floor finish inside that is porous (i.e. wood floors) then you may have an issue with buckling. If you have old sheet vinyl or linoleum floors, I'd remove that before spraying underneath. It'll trap whatever moisture you have in your subfloor.
Was it worth it? Eh maybe. Will is save us money in the long run on energy bills? Probably never break even. Is it more comfortable on a cold day? Definitely.
ETA: If you're in south LA, I'd wait til the October/November for the natural moisture content of your subfloor to reduce. Also, if you don't have a floor finish inside that is porous (i.e. wood floors) then you may have an issue with buckling. If you have old sheet vinyl or linoleum floors, I'd remove that before spraying underneath. It'll trap whatever moisture you have in your subfloor.
This post was edited on 8/2/22 at 12:25 pm
Posted on 8/2/22 at 12:27 pm to notsince98
quote:
spray foam will create vapor barriers.
Is there not a vapor barrier with batt insulation? I thought they put a plastic barrier normally?
That's what I'm saying though, is that we got 3 quotes and they are all good to do the job. Absolutely no "we need to be mindful of..." in regards to humidity.
So that's what I'm asking? They all 3 said that the spray foam creates the vapor barrier, no need for anything else.
Posted on 8/2/22 at 12:28 pm to modes
quote:
ETA: If you're in south LA, I'd wait til the October/November for the natural moisture content of your subfloor to reduce. Also, if you don't have a floor finish inside that is porous (i.e. wood floors) then you may have an issue with buckling. If you have old sheet vinyl or linoleum floors, I'd remove that before spraying underneath. It'll trap whatever moisture you have in your subfloor.
Its currently tile that was laid very poorly, but needless to say the tile is buckling like a mo fo.
So we were thinking it would be better to spray foam and THEN re do the floor then vice versa? Its in the Florida panhandle so assuming its the same as the rest of the gulf coast.
Posted on 8/2/22 at 1:14 pm to baldona
The company that did mine checked floor and support beam moisture readings before they would do it. I waited til February specifically to make sure humidity was low at the time so it was good to go. I wouldn’t have it done this time of year.
Posted on 8/2/22 at 1:17 pm to baldona
the installers aren't going to warn you off from using their services
iirc the report essentially recommends against insulating the crawlspace. i know of people who had wood buckle after insulating old house and insurance refused to cover. at my old house (raised), i always wanted to seal the crawlspace but not insulate just to stop the contaminates coming up through the floor. moved before i got around to it.
iirc the report essentially recommends against insulating the crawlspace. i know of people who had wood buckle after insulating old house and insurance refused to cover. at my old house (raised), i always wanted to seal the crawlspace but not insulate just to stop the contaminates coming up through the floor. moved before i got around to it.
Posted on 8/2/22 at 1:18 pm to baldona
I had it done in January because of a floor buckling issue. So far so good but we are just getting to the most humid month of the year. The one recommendation the spray foam contractor did give me was to wait until the winter to do it so that the crawlspace could be as dry as possible when they sprayed.
Posted on 8/2/22 at 2:02 pm to baldona
quote:
Can I get the Cliff Notes?
-Closed Cell Spray Foam is good & serves as a vapor barrier, 2 lb density @ 2 inches thick
-Recommended to foam the joists as well as the subfloors
-and as stated by Modes, ideally recommended in humid climates to wait until late fall to spray foam when humidity is low so that wood subfloors and joist have a chance to dry out before spray foaming - if your friends house is in Pensacola he should consider that
-not an issue to spray foam the crawl space, if walls or attic are not spray foamed
This post was edited on 8/2/22 at 2:13 pm
Posted on 8/2/22 at 2:15 pm to lsujro
quote:
the installers aren't going to warn you off from using their services
You would think...but I was hoping in calling 3 of them that one may give me some form of honest suggestions....
Posted on 8/2/22 at 6:08 pm to baldona
All of the suggestions in this thread are good ones. I have another suggrstion….go and get yourself an infrared thermometer. Tell the spray foam installer that you will use it to see what ares they missed by the floor temperature variation. It works very well!
Posted on 8/4/22 at 7:13 am to baldona
When we insulate crawlspace we generally are using 2" of rigid insulation along the foundation wall plus a vapor barrier that goes up the wall and across the grade. Insulation on the wall should stop 3" short of the top of the wall for you to be able to see termites. We then spray foam the floor with 7" of open cell and also spray the full height of floor framing at the rim board. This results in a closed and insulated crawlspace.
Posted on 8/4/22 at 8:33 am to DellTronJon
quote:
plus a vapor barrier that goes up the wall and across the grade. Insulation on the wall should stop 3" short of the top of the wall for you to be able to see termites. We then spray foam the floor with 7" of open cell and also spray the full height of floor framing at the rim board.
I’m lost here? This home is 20 years old. So I’m not talking new construction, just looking for crawl space, so what is your suggestion? I don’t understand a vapor barrier that goes up the wall? Assuming you are talking new construction?
By vapor barrier up the wall I’m assuming you mean like Tyvek house wrap?
Posted on 8/7/22 at 3:45 pm to baldona
Tacking in to this thread:
One question I’ve been wondering about is from a number of spray foam retrofit videos I have watched while researching: what about the wires? Attic wiring from most contractors and internet/security people seems to be an afterthought and gets strung around all over. Would spray foam not encapsulate bundles of wires making them inaccessible for future fixes or replacement?
One question I’ve been wondering about is from a number of spray foam retrofit videos I have watched while researching: what about the wires? Attic wiring from most contractors and internet/security people seems to be an afterthought and gets strung around all over. Would spray foam not encapsulate bundles of wires making them inaccessible for future fixes or replacement?
Posted on 8/7/22 at 8:06 pm to man in the stadium
In my situation they sprayed the rafters and not the joists.
Have heard all the counterarguments with overheating shingles and what-if this or that happens.
Can only say it changed everything with temperature control.
Want to do it for under the house, but termites do concern me.
Have heard all the counterarguments with overheating shingles and what-if this or that happens.
Can only say it changed everything with temperature control.
Want to do it for under the house, but termites do concern me.
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