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Update - Fixed! Samsung dryer - overheating and heating on air fluff mode
Posted on 6/23/21 at 9:12 pm
Posted on 6/23/21 at 9:12 pm
Samsung front load dryer. This machine stopped heating altogether about a week ago. No problem. I ordered a new heater element, thermostat and thermal fuse. Changed everything out tonight and it tripped my breaker a couple of times. Finally noticed that a part of the new element coil was grounded to the housing. I pulled the wire off of the housing (it was welded to the housing a bit) and it fired right up - no tripping the breaker and hot air blowing. Here is my issue: It is now overheating and heating on air fluff mode now. Any ideas?
Update - The heater relay was stuck/welded closed causing power to be send to the element anytime the blower motor was on. Confirmed by testing that relay on old control and a new control board. New control board fixed the problem.
Update - The heater relay was stuck/welded closed causing power to be send to the element anytime the blower motor was on. Confirmed by testing that relay on old control and a new control board. New control board fixed the problem.
This post was edited on 7/10/21 at 1:48 pm
4
Posted on 6/24/21 at 11:07 am to AyyyBaw
My initial thought is a control board issue. Usually those Samsungs throw codes though so that is how I always troubleshoot the problem.
Posted on 6/24/21 at 12:36 pm to fightin tigers
Shoot, I wish it was throwing a code. It might throw a code if I let it get hot enough unless the thermistor is out and isn't detecting the correct air temp that would throw the code.
I figure I'll reinstall a new heater element, thermostat, thermal fuse, and also test/change the thermistor. If all that fails, then I'll have to suck it up and call someone.
I figure I'll reinstall a new heater element, thermostat, thermal fuse, and also test/change the thermistor. If all that fails, then I'll have to suck it up and call someone.
Posted on 6/24/21 at 2:48 pm to AyyyBaw
I wonder if that element is grounding out somewhere else.
That can keep them electrified and hot!
That can keep them electrified and hot!
Posted on 6/24/21 at 2:51 pm to AyyyBaw
If the element legs are going thru a SSR (solid state relay) on the board, it's possible you have a bad relay. When a SSR fails, they fail in the closed position, thus completing a circuit.
Posted on 6/25/21 at 1:02 am to AyyyBaw
Common issue. Your heating element is grounded.
Somehow the element is making contact with the chassis inside the element. I've seen this before. Usually requires no parts. Just separate the element string from the case. Check for continuity from element to ground. Then just find where it's touching and bend it away. (Power unplugged of course)
Also whenever opening a Samsung dryer I like to put in an upgraded pulley. The factory ones burn out and the pulley falls apart.
Somehow the element is making contact with the chassis inside the element. I've seen this before. Usually requires no parts. Just separate the element string from the case. Check for continuity from element to ground. Then just find where it's touching and bend it away. (Power unplugged of course)
Also whenever opening a Samsung dryer I like to put in an upgraded pulley. The factory ones burn out and the pulley falls apart.
This post was edited on 6/25/21 at 1:05 am
Posted on 6/25/21 at 8:36 am to Napoleon
I'm pretty sure that is the cause of the problem. It doesn't look grounded - the element isn't obviously visibly touching the housing, but it could be something small that I'm not seeing. I'll test it for continuity today. Thanks for the replies!
Posted on 6/25/21 at 9:22 am to AyyyBaw
I'll test it for continuity today. Thanks for the replies!
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He's suggesting to check if it's grounded.
I had a broken element that was contacting ground and it would heat even when not on.
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He's suggesting to check if it's grounded.
I had a broken element that was contacting ground and it would heat even when not on.
This post was edited on 6/25/21 at 9:28 am
Posted on 6/25/21 at 9:45 am to ItzMe1972
Yes - test for ground. That's what I meant. Touch a terminal and housing to see if there is a connection right?
Yep, I turned the breaker off so that it doesn't heat while I'm at work. I'll update the thread after I fix it in case it helps anyone in the future.
Yep, I turned the breaker off so that it doesn't heat while I'm at work. I'll update the thread after I fix it in case it helps anyone in the future.
Posted on 6/25/21 at 9:47 am to ItzMe1972
It shouldn't. One leg goes through a centrifugal switch on the motor and needs the motor to spin to close the circuit. The other goes through a relay....or timer. Nevermind with a timer in the on position that's possible.
Posted on 6/25/21 at 9:50 am to AyyyBaw
It can only be that. Or a stuck relay. But the latter would be odd because usually the thermal cut off would still operate if it's grounded the thermal limiter can be bypassed.
Posted on 6/25/21 at 10:13 am to Napoleon
Nevermind with a timer in the on position that's possible.
---
Fisher Paykel dryer.
Not switched on. Laundry room was blazing in the morning.
Grounded broken element.
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Fisher Paykel dryer.
Not switched on. Laundry room was blazing in the morning.
Grounded broken element.
Posted on 6/25/21 at 12:15 pm to ItzMe1972
Most Fisher Paykel dryers are rebranded GE dryers EXCEPT for the odd split drum top loading dryer. I've only ever seen two of those in 12 years though.
There should not be live voltage to any heat circuit in the "off" position. Though I the timer is in a run position then there would be half leg (110) voltage to the element.
There should not be live voltage to any heat circuit in the "off" position. Though I the timer is in a run position then there would be half leg (110) voltage to the element.
This post was edited on 6/25/21 at 12:17 pm
Posted on 6/27/21 at 12:27 pm to Napoleon
I installed a new element housing with all new components today (element, housing fuse, housing thermostat, blower housing thermistor, and blower housing thermostat). I verified that my element is not grounded. It’s still o reheating a heating on air fluff mode. I check the temp without clothes in it on a high temp normal cycle and it climbed steady to 215. I turned it off at that point. So it’s not cycling at all. I’m pretty sure at this point that I have a bad relay in the control board that’s completing the circuit 100% of the time. I think my only option left is a new control board. I haven’t seen the heater relay sold without the whole control board, but I could be wrong.
Posted on 6/27/21 at 2:07 pm to AyyyBaw
With the dryer off - removed the two wires from the heater relay and tested the relay terminals with each other and got a beep. I guess that means the relay is completing the circuit when the dryer is off correct?
Posted on 6/28/21 at 3:42 pm to AyyyBaw
Depends on the relay. Some relays are normally open and need power to complete the circuit or they are normally closed and need power to open. You need to see the wiring diagram. But if you are reading continuity with a meter it is currently closed.
This post was edited on 6/28/21 at 3:44 pm
Posted on 7/10/21 at 1:49 pm to choppadocta
Bumping in case anyone else has the same problem. OP edited with fix.
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