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Started By
Message
What are the chances I bought a bad GFCI outlet?
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:14 pm
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:14 pm
Low, I know.
Two years after construction, a GFCI in my kitchen started popping a couple of times a day for no obvious reason. I figured they can wear out over time so I go grab a new one. When I pulled the old one it was very clear that one of the hot terminals had been arcing to the bare ground wire, so I figure I found my problem. Installed the new outlet exactly the same as the old one, trimmed the bare wire so it would tuck in a little easier. Put power back on and the outlet shows a solid green light, but will not reset or provide power. Bad outlet? Or more likely something else?
eta- Leviton self test GFNT1-KT
Two years after construction, a GFCI in my kitchen started popping a couple of times a day for no obvious reason. I figured they can wear out over time so I go grab a new one. When I pulled the old one it was very clear that one of the hot terminals had been arcing to the bare ground wire, so I figure I found my problem. Installed the new outlet exactly the same as the old one, trimmed the bare wire so it would tuck in a little easier. Put power back on and the outlet shows a solid green light, but will not reset or provide power. Bad outlet? Or more likely something else?


eta- Leviton self test GFNT1-KT
This post was edited on 11/7/22 at 8:18 pm
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:15 pm to Kingpenm3
GFCIs are really good for what they are. They can also be an incredible pain in the arse.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:17 pm to Kingpenm3
I have seem outside receptacles on kitchen circuits. Look around and check any receptacle that is on the same circuit.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:18 pm to Kingpenm3
I'd try a second replacement for sure, especially if you bought a cheaper one.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:19 pm to Kingpenm3
Make sure you have the correct neutral on the line side of the GFI.
ETA if you have the wrong neutral on the line side the light on the GFI will still light up but it will provide no power
ETA if you have the wrong neutral on the line side the light on the GFI will still light up but it will provide no power
This post was edited on 11/7/22 at 8:23 pm
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:22 pm to Kingpenm3
I am not an electrician, but have probably installed at least a hundred of these. Installed many more regular outlets connected to those. odds are slim, and I would check power sources in the box back to the main panel.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:23 pm to papasmurf1269
While you're picking up a new outlet get one of those plug in testers with the lights on the back and you can go around and plug it in each outlet and read the lights and you can also use it to test GFI circuits
This post was edited on 11/7/22 at 8:24 pm
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:23 pm to Kingpenm3
Unplug anything downstream and try to reset. It also could have been installed incorrectly. Just a thought.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:24 pm to Kingpenm3
Just put a blank cover over the top of the GFCI and buy some extension cords.
Don’t make things harder than they are.
Duh.
Don’t make things harder than they are.
Duh.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:25 pm to Kingpenm3
Most likely another plug in the circuit has issues.
Or as said, ground wire issues. The testers are cheap. Get one and you’ll learn where the issue is.
Or as said, ground wire issues. The testers are cheap. Get one and you’ll learn where the issue is.
This post was edited on 11/7/22 at 8:26 pm
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:26 pm to Kingpenm3
quote:
check any receptacle that is on the same circuit.
Had 4 outlets on the same circuit and a bad one started popping the GFCI.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:26 pm to Kingpenm3
Black wires (110v) go to gold terminals, white (neutral) goes to silver. Ground to the green terminal.
When installed.. hit test.. then reset. If it doesn’t work then, pitch it and put the old one back in
And never trim the wires shorter. You may need that length later on. It happens. Take some needle nose pliers and shove it back into the rear of the box.
I don’t understand why you didn’t separate the ground and hot wires on the old one… shove it back in.. and go on with life.
When installed.. hit test.. then reset. If it doesn’t work then, pitch it and put the old one back in
And never trim the wires shorter. You may need that length later on. It happens. Take some needle nose pliers and shove it back into the rear of the box.
I don’t understand why you didn’t separate the ground and hot wires on the old one… shove it back in.. and go on with life.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:27 pm to Kingpenm3
You probably have wires backward, not all gfis are set with incoming and outgoing are on same side...I did the same as you...ended up calling electrician- he said watch me closely or I'm charging you 100 an outlet
This post was edited on 11/7/22 at 8:28 pm
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:30 pm to BHM
quote:
I have seem outside receptacles on kitchen circuits. Look around and check any receptacle that is on the same circuit.
I had this same issue. There was only one GFCI but multiple outlets that were daisy chained back to it. One of the outlets, power wire insulation had been skinned back and I guess plugging/unplugging things allowed the bare wire to finally arc and keep going to ground. It was a hard ground as it was tripping all the way back into the house fuse panel.
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:31 pm to hubreb
220, 221, whatever it takes op
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:32 pm to EagleEye99
It is probably another outlet or possible the breaker is bad?
Posted on 11/7/22 at 8:32 pm to Kingpenm3
Green light should mean the GFCI is providing power. Does the light go off when you press the test button does the light go off?
Also at the risk of asking a stupid question - how are you verifying that it’s not providing power? Have you tried both outlets?
Also at the risk of asking a stupid question - how are you verifying that it’s not providing power? Have you tried both outlets?
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