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Message

Cost to insulate my house?
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:31 am
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:31 am
Well, I woke up this morning, and it was 58 in my house. Albeit, I didn't turn the heater on, but it dropped from 70 at around 2am to 58 at 9am. I have fiberglass insulation in the attic, but I guess it isn't doing much of anything because it got pretty cold in here.
I was thinking about getting spray foam in the walls, but have no idea of the price I'd be looking at without getting a few contractors out here and burning a day's worth of work. Also, the house is raised about a foot off of the ground, so insulating the bottom is out of the question. I also have double pane windows everywhere, and some are pretty big.
It is a 1300sq ft shotgun style house, but wider than a normal shotgun. This is in Metairie
I was thinking about getting spray foam in the walls, but have no idea of the price I'd be looking at without getting a few contractors out here and burning a day's worth of work. Also, the house is raised about a foot off of the ground, so insulating the bottom is out of the question. I also have double pane windows everywhere, and some are pretty big.
It is a 1300sq ft shotgun style house, but wider than a normal shotgun. This is in Metairie
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:33 am to Hammertime
quote:
Also, the house is raised about a foot off of the ground, so insulating the bottom is out of the question.
Is it shielded with panels? Those do help somewhat.
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:38 am to Rex
It's got wood siding underneath vinyl. No idea why they did that, but that's what it is. I can't see under the house, so idk what's there. The floor doesn't get that cold when it is cold outside. I mean, it does, but not to where you think "damn, this floor is cold" when you walk in. It's not like there are a bunch of different strata going up the house. It is all just cold
That's why I think the walls are the problem
That's why I think the walls are the problem
This post was edited on 11/17/14 at 10:40 am
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:42 am to Hammertime
quote:
I was thinking about getting spray foam in the walls
unless I am missing something, this might be expensive.
the only way to get insulation into an existing wall is to either pull the sheet rock off or spray down from the attic, but it will go so far down, depending on where they put the fire breaks
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:43 am to Hammertime
I could be wrong, but I don't think you could feasibly sprayfoam without taking down all the existing sheetrock. How "leaky" are the windows?
Do you have carpet? My grandma's house was cold as a bitch in the winter... she had carpet laid with a thick pad, helped somewhat, but in the winters, she'd get this shrink wrap window stuff and cover all the windows... was like night and day difference.
Do you have carpet? My grandma's house was cold as a bitch in the winter... she had carpet laid with a thick pad, helped somewhat, but in the winters, she'd get this shrink wrap window stuff and cover all the windows... was like night and day difference.
This post was edited on 11/17/14 at 10:46 am
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:45 am to SSpaniel
I've seen them drill holes in the walls and shoot foam in there. My walls are all wood though (1940s house). The windows and doors do not leak at all
All original wood floors, except in the bathrooms
All original wood floors, except in the bathrooms
This post was edited on 11/17/14 at 10:47 am
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:47 am to Hammertime
I have an old shotgun double uptown and deal with this same issue. Insulation in the attic but nowhere else. The reason I've avoided spray insulation is that I've heard some horror stories about it trapping moisture and rotting out walls. Does anyone know if there's any truth in that?
Posted on 11/17/14 at 11:01 am to Hammertime
You have no insulation under house, this is the problem.
I have a raised home in Mandeville that I finished off and initially didn't have subfloor insulated..it was always freezing in house during winter regardless of how long we ran heater.
Insulated subfloor w/ closed cell insulation and haven't had any issues since, my only concern is moisture being trapped and rotting my floors...
Posted on 11/17/14 at 11:04 am to LawLessTyGer
I was thinking about raising it so it was accessible underneath, and the house needs to be re-leveled anyway. There wouldn't be any scenario where I'd rip up the floors in the entire house though. They are original 6" wide heart pine floors. Guy that built the house was a finish carpenter, so there is detail in every single spot in the house, and it is generally overbuilt.
I don't understand why that would be such a big problem if the floor isn't really cold
I don't understand why that would be such a big problem if the floor isn't really cold

This post was edited on 11/17/14 at 11:06 am
Posted on 11/17/14 at 11:11 am to gorillaballin
I have an old pier and beam house with no insulation in the walls or underneath. I put insulation in the walls downstairs and it has had almost no effect. Most of the cold comes from underneath I believe. The thing I did that has had the most value is put a 2nd pane of glass in my windows. Kept the existing windows.....
here is a pic.....I used 1/4" wide rubber/ silicone strips I got in insulation section of home depot between the panes. Then caulked on the interior side of window. This has made a drastic difference in summer and winter. I can touch a window I did not do and it is very hot or cold and gets condensation in the winter. The double paned windows are always close to room temp to the touch. They also muffle outside noise quite a bit.
here is a pic.....I used 1/4" wide rubber/ silicone strips I got in insulation section of home depot between the panes. Then caulked on the interior side of window. This has made a drastic difference in summer and winter. I can touch a window I did not do and it is very hot or cold and gets condensation in the winter. The double paned windows are always close to room temp to the touch. They also muffle outside noise quite a bit.
Posted on 11/17/14 at 11:24 am to Zappas Stache
All of my windows, with the exception of the back sunroom and my bedroom are less than 5 years old and double pane. Those have intricate trim, and original glass. I'm not willing to take those apart and risk breaking the trim up because I definitely couldn't reproduce it, and it would even be hard for a finish carpenter to do. None are leaking or cloudy. One takes up most of a wall though. Probably 8x6. Others are floor to ceiling 24" windows
Posted on 11/17/14 at 11:28 am to Hammertime
I covered the attic of my townhome with blown in insulation from Home Depot for under $500. Easy job two man job...perfect for beer drinking.
Though as others have mentioned, I think the floors are the culprit.
Though as others have mentioned, I think the floors are the culprit.
This post was edited on 11/17/14 at 11:30 am
Posted on 11/17/14 at 11:40 am to Hammertime
We looked into getting extra insulation added to a rent house in BR because the tenants (me and my roommates) couldn't keep it cool in the summer. It was really expensive since the house was already finished. So we just went to Home Depot and bought 3 window units and that solved the problem and electric bill went down because the central air never left 75.
That really isn't worth the price or the hassle.
quote:
Well, I woke up this morning, and it was 58 in my house. Albeit, I didn't turn the heater on, but it dropped from 70 at around 2am to 58 at 9am. I have fiberglass insulation in the attic, but I guess it isn't doing much of anything because it got pretty cold in here.
That really isn't worth the price or the hassle.
Posted on 11/17/14 at 11:48 am to Zappas Stache
I'm trying to figure out if putting radiant barrier over my existing radiant barrier would help even more. Sounds stupid I know, but it's not that expensive.
Posted on 11/17/14 at 8:28 pm to Hammertime
It's the floors bro, trust me...spending 1 yr in my house without the sub floor being insulated was misery during winter . Once we sprayed closed cell insulation underneath everything was fine.
IMO, I'd at least get a quote from one of the companies that does it.
IMO, I'd at least get a quote from one of the companies that does it.
Posted on 11/17/14 at 8:55 pm to Hammertime
I have an above ground house also and noticed the utility bill twice as much in the winter. I'm going to install some of those foam sheets. I've heard you need to get at least a R13 and it should have the metallic outside. My question is do you glue it to the subfloor or leave space between the subfloor and floor joist?
This post was edited on 11/17/14 at 8:57 pm
Posted on 11/17/14 at 9:59 pm to Hammertime
quote:Turn on the heater. Seriously, that doesn't seem bad for as cold as it was this morning, IF you weren't running a heater.
Well, I woke up this morning, and it was 58 in my house. Albeit, I didn't turn the heater on,
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:04 pm to Assassin
if it is an older house I would start with weather stripping around the windows. Just try it in a room or two and see if it makes a difference. sometimes the gaps in old windows cause a lot of your draft. Try a room or two and see if those rooms make a difference and then proceed.
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:05 pm to LawLessTyGer
quote:
closed cell underneath
What happens if you have a slow water leak? It will pool at the site and rot your floor and you will not know it until it has been there a while.
Open cell spray foam insulation is always the way to go under roofs and under floors. Never use closed cell in horizontal applications. The R Value difference between the two types of insulations is negligible.
Posted on 11/17/14 at 10:06 pm to LawLessTyGer
quote:
Once we sprayed closed cell insulation underneath everything was fine.
You never want to spray closed cell foam. There are TONS of lawsuits out there over closed cell foam and damages resulting from it.
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