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Masons of the OT...can I install a brick "seating" wall on an existing patio?
Posted on 3/4/15 at 6:59 am
Posted on 3/4/15 at 6:59 am
I have an existing patio (about 4" thick) that has been poured about a year now. Is that strong enough for me to build a 20 foot long by 1 foot wide x 2 foot tall seating wall on top of? Or would I need to bust up the concrete and pour some additional footings for this wall? Is there a site that would help me determine whether or not my existing "footing" is strong enough? I've looked...but can't find one.
This post was edited on 3/4/15 at 7:00 am
10
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:01 am to Crusty
I thought this was going to be an Illuminati thread. #disappoint
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:05 am to Crusty
I think it would be best to saw cut the existing, demo it, dig the trench down about a foot a repour. An alternative would be to dowel in some rebar and pour a footing on top of the existing slab. But you can always build the wall on top of what's there and hope for the best. It may be ok. But there is a chance it may shift/crack.
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:13 am to Crusty
With that long of a wall you really need a footing. Do what balls said. If not odds are you'll end up with a busted slab/patio
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:23 am to Crusty
Do you have any idea what your existing footing is?
Footing aside, if it were me (I'm terrible at laying brick), I'd build a 2 or 2.5 course cmu wall 4" in from edge of slab, then hire a mason to put brick veneer over it. Probably fill every 4th cell of cmu, with a #5 rebar dowel inside.
Footing aside, if it were me (I'm terrible at laying brick), I'd build a 2 or 2.5 course cmu wall 4" in from edge of slab, then hire a mason to put brick veneer over it. Probably fill every 4th cell of cmu, with a #5 rebar dowel inside.
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:24 am to LSUballs
quote:
I think it would be best to saw cut the existing, demo it, dig the trench down about a foot a repour.
Agreed. Also, if you undercut you can hide the joint under the knee wall similar to this.
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:32 am to Crusty
Is it up against a wall or is this an outer edge? If outer edge, not to point out the obvious, but pour a new footer up against the existing slab and build there. Remember, concrete footer cheap versus building the wall-having it fail-destruct and rebuild.
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:44 am to Crusty
you need to do what LSUballs said. Saw cut where you will be doing the wall and demo that slab. Pour a new footing and dowl into the old slab. If you build it right on top of the slab it's going to crack and fall over very easily.
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:45 am to jbgleason
Thank you for all of the input guys (and nice drawing Junkfunky).
It is actually a combination of an outside edge (which would be ok to build an additional footing as soon as I move irrigation lines), but it would also come across my slab right next to some steps. I didn't want to have to demo that part but it sounds like that is my safest option. I was just hoping to save time and save money but in the end, this may not be the best idea.
It is actually a combination of an outside edge (which would be ok to build an additional footing as soon as I move irrigation lines), but it would also come across my slab right next to some steps. I didn't want to have to demo that part but it sounds like that is my safest option. I was just hoping to save time and save money but in the end, this may not be the best idea.
This post was edited on 3/4/15 at 7:46 am
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:47 am to Crusty
Ask one to be one
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:50 am to Crusty
Who poured your patio?
I'm looking to pour a concrete patio with a brick seating wall soon
I'm looking to pour a concrete patio with a brick seating wall soon
Posted on 3/4/15 at 8:02 am to Jim Rockford
quote:
I thought this was going to be an Illuminati thread. #disappoint
No goat riding stories. Moving on.
Posted on 3/4/15 at 8:07 am to Crusty
Needs footings.
Posted on 3/4/15 at 9:03 am to MNCscripper
quote:
Who poured your patio?
My builder did (well he contracted it out)...and I wouldn't recommend him or his crew to anyone.
This post was edited on 3/4/15 at 9:04 am
Posted on 3/4/15 at 10:57 am to Crusty
Anybody have any recs for this kind of work?
Posted on 3/4/15 at 11:24 am to Crusty
4" of minimally reinforced concrete can't hold that kind of weight. I would saw cut it out and rebuild so that the patio sees no load. Put in backer road and concrete sealant at the joints. Make the masonry rely on the ground, not the patio.
Posted on 3/4/15 at 11:42 am to NYNolaguy1
quote:
4" of minimally reinforced concrete can't hold that kind of weight.
really? Slabs on grade do not work like that. Everything is dependant of the soil. The reinforcement in slabs on grades is place at mid piont to the upper 3rd. In most residential applications it is to prevent cracking from temperature and shrinkage. In applications where there will be heavy load, as in roads or warehouses with columns is it to resist the bending up between the tires of the vehicle or columns. the soil should be designed to resist the downward load.
Plus that isnt a footing, it is a grade beam or a slab skirt.
This post was edited on 3/4/15 at 1:11 pm
Posted on 3/4/15 at 1:25 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
CarRamrod
So you are saying that the existing slab should be able to support this weight...assuming the soil conditions underneath the slab can? So, if I cut/dig a trench to put this brick wall in there...that too will depend strictly on the soil conditions? Sorry, I am just a little confused by your response and I am not sure what a "heavy" load is (insert OT jokes here). Is a 2' high brick wall considered a "heavy" load?
Posted on 3/4/15 at 2:00 pm to Crusty
For a seat wall 15-18" your slab should support. Brick and mortar weigh 50lbs/ sf. Your fiod
Posted on 3/4/15 at 2:33 pm to Crusty
quote:theoretically yes. usually for a building there will be a 3'-4' grade beam under a load bearing wall.
So you are saying that the existing slab should be able to support this weight...assuming the soil conditions underneath the slab can?
I thinks a 2' tall seat wall isnt very much load. I also would assume a small gradebeam/skirt should already be on slab.
you planning on full concrete or CMU, or what?
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