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OT mechanics - Best engine cleaning additive (oil)
Posted on 1/3/24 at 1:56 pm
Posted on 1/3/24 at 1:56 pm
What is the best way to clean out the block with burnt oil/carbon build up? I’m talking about some kind of additive to add to the oil and drive for a while, to clean out the build up, and how long do you drive around with it?
I see all kinds of additives, but what is the best?
I see all kinds of additives, but what is the best?
Posted on 1/3/24 at 1:59 pm to theantiquetiger
Are you currently running synthetic?
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:00 pm to theantiquetiger
Marvel Mystery oil 1/5 ratio (20%), couple hundred miles.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 2:03 pm
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:02 pm to High C
quote:
Are you currently running synthetic?
Yes, but not sure what was run in it for the first four years (60k miles)
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:02 pm to theantiquetiger
Marvel Mystery Earl
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:02 pm to theantiquetiger
Drain out a quart of oil and replace it with Diesel Fuel. Idle engine for 10 minutes and drain case, fill with new oil.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 2:05 pm
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:14 pm to theantiquetiger
quote:
OT mechanics - Best engine cleaning additive (oil)
LS Swap
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:19 pm to theantiquetiger
quote:
I see all kinds of additives, but what is the best?
Most decent mechanics will tell you not to do engine flushes. Most of them are snake oil and you are just paying for some kerosene and a few solvent additives. MMO and Seafoam have limited solvent capacity in the amounts you can safely run in the engine, they aren't going to do much when there's a lot of hard deposits and varnish involved. The best way to go, assuming you don't have an engine that has stuck rings, is to simply start using a quality synthetic oil/filter and change the oil on shorter intervals. Most oils have increased detergent additives now, synthetic oils especially and they can clean out an engine gradually.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:22 pm to theantiquetiger
Don't put any of that shite in your engine. Just run a good oil and increase frequency of filter changes. If you are really neurotic about it, start doing oil analysis and install an additional bypass filter.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:30 pm to theantiquetiger
If your concern is carbon build up on the back of the valves….how would an oil additive help? Wouldn’t you need to focus on the intake? Then a catch can to prevent it from recurring?
Honestly I wouldn’t worry too much about it unless you have a Volvo, VW, Honda, or Audi with a turbo + DI. For whatever reason, their turbo DI engines have either a overly simplistic PVC system or they aren’t using adequate baffling to catch the blow by, enabling all that garbage to get baked onto the back of the intake valves.
GM, Ford, and Toyota do pretty well with it with their newer DI engines especially in their trucks. A lot of people do not like the smaller displacement turbos, but the GM Turbomax and the Ford Ecoboost motors have actually been pretty solid. In some cases they are adding port fuel injections to their DI engines too which is the nuclear option against carbon on the back of the intake valves - at least until the EPA objects to that.
If you have a Ford 5.4 or one of the other engines prone to oil sludge….change it often with high quality oil. That’s really good advice for any modern engine. Lower weight oil is used these days and they are deploying these variable pressure oil pumps (to reduce load on engine and increase MPG) that can potentially starve engines from oil in some circumstances. That’s what’s really hurting the lifters in the Ford 7.3L gas engine and some of the Chevy V8s from 3-4 years ago. Only way to combat those issues is to change the oil often and use the top quality synthetic. And listen carefully for a ticks so you can address them before metal parts start flowing through the motor.
Honestly I wouldn’t worry too much about it unless you have a Volvo, VW, Honda, or Audi with a turbo + DI. For whatever reason, their turbo DI engines have either a overly simplistic PVC system or they aren’t using adequate baffling to catch the blow by, enabling all that garbage to get baked onto the back of the intake valves.
GM, Ford, and Toyota do pretty well with it with their newer DI engines especially in their trucks. A lot of people do not like the smaller displacement turbos, but the GM Turbomax and the Ford Ecoboost motors have actually been pretty solid. In some cases they are adding port fuel injections to their DI engines too which is the nuclear option against carbon on the back of the intake valves - at least until the EPA objects to that.
If you have a Ford 5.4 or one of the other engines prone to oil sludge….change it often with high quality oil. That’s really good advice for any modern engine. Lower weight oil is used these days and they are deploying these variable pressure oil pumps (to reduce load on engine and increase MPG) that can potentially starve engines from oil in some circumstances. That’s what’s really hurting the lifters in the Ford 7.3L gas engine and some of the Chevy V8s from 3-4 years ago. Only way to combat those issues is to change the oil often and use the top quality synthetic. And listen carefully for a ticks so you can address them before metal parts start flowing through the motor.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 2:41 pm
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:35 pm to billjamin
quote:
Don't put any of that shite in your engine.
This.
You will be probably adding more problems than what is already there when you start breaking that crud loose.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 2:41 pm to theantiquetiger
If you only have 4 or 5 years on the motor I don't think you should have much build up issue.
A little additive to your gas every so often would not hurt.
The turbo motors do build up some due to the excess blow back. If that is the concern look up a catch can for your vehicle. They are easy to install in most vehicles.
A little additive to your gas every so often would not hurt.
The turbo motors do build up some due to the excess blow back. If that is the concern look up a catch can for your vehicle. They are easy to install in most vehicles.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 3:12 pm to Pfft
quote:
A little additive to your gas every so often would not hurt
Not really necessary, either, if you run quality gas with detergent additives. Chevron, Texaco (Techron), Shell (V-Power), Exxon/Mobil (Synergy). You really should be fine with any Tier 1 gas.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 3:52 pm to theantiquetiger
Stop buying cheap gas and oil, change regularly, do regular maintenance, don't worry about buildup.
If you're REALLY paranoid, get an oil catch can at the PCV, it'll capture fuel and oil before it gets back to the combustion chamber. Thank EPA for that engineering stupidity.
If you're REALLY paranoid, get an oil catch can at the PCV, it'll capture fuel and oil before it gets back to the combustion chamber. Thank EPA for that engineering stupidity.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 5:11 pm to theantiquetiger
This guy’s videos are great. Project Farm.
He compares lots of products, not just engine cleaners.
This one compares SeaFoam, Marvel MO, and Chevron Techron.
YouTube (10 minutes)
In this test SeaFoam did the best, but all 3 seem to work better than nothing.
He compares lots of products, not just engine cleaners.
This one compares SeaFoam, Marvel MO, and Chevron Techron.
YouTube (10 minutes)
In this test SeaFoam did the best, but all 3 seem to work better than nothing.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 5:13 pm
Posted on 1/3/24 at 5:40 pm to theantiquetiger
If you can find it, use BG EPR. Pretty much only sold to repair shops as far as I know, but it works on crankcase/valvetrain/vvt carbon deposits. Idle for 10-15 minutes after adding it, then change oil and filter.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 5:41 pm to dewster
quote:
Honda
Depending on the model year, with a Honda your oil will burn off slowly, it is not like a Kia that will burn a quart every 500 miles.
Also, don’t go by your idiot light that tells you when to maintenance your vehicle. I got down to 20% and I was a quart low. So my Honda is burning some oil but it has a quarter million miles on it.
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