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Question re: Cypress Finish for Kitchen Countertops in Camper Conversion
Posted on 8/10/18 at 3:57 pm
Posted on 8/10/18 at 3:57 pm
Looking to finish up some cypress kitchen countertops in our camper van conversion over the next few days. Originally I had considered staining the cypress followed by two coats of epoxy. Unfortunately I've read that there can be a lot of issues putting epoxy over stain and (perhaps more importantly) I heard I'd need to let the stain set for 7 days before laying epoxy. We'd like to get on the road before then.
The backup plan would be to just to a few coats of spar varnish on the countertops instead of staining and epoxying.
My goal here is to make the cypress a few shades darker while adding a nice shine, protect it (since the countertops are where the sink is and the food prep will be), and minimize the time. Any general recommendations on the best route to take? Thanks
The backup plan would be to just to a few coats of spar varnish on the countertops instead of staining and epoxying.
My goal here is to make the cypress a few shades darker while adding a nice shine, protect it (since the countertops are where the sink is and the food prep will be), and minimize the time. Any general recommendations on the best route to take? Thanks
8
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:00 pm to abitaman6363
You should not have to wait 7 days to apply epoxy. Once the stain is dry to the touch, wait a day after that. Should be at most around 3 days.
ETA: if you use an oil based stain, you will need to apply a base coat of water based polyurethane before putting on the epoxy. Be sure to lightly sand this layer before adding the epoxy.
ETA: if you use an oil based stain, you will need to apply a base coat of water based polyurethane before putting on the epoxy. Be sure to lightly sand this layer before adding the epoxy.
This post was edited on 8/10/18 at 4:04 pm
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:01 pm to abitaman6363
I have no useful information. However, I would like to see some more pictures of the project.
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:04 pm to abitaman6363
I've always found that a simple coat of Polyurethane really brings out the color of cypress.
This post was edited on 8/10/18 at 8:46 pm
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:05 pm to abitaman6363
Shouldn’t have to wait 7 days after staining. A couple days should be fine.
Cypress is a pretty soft wood, wouldn’t expect it to hold up well for a countertop surface.
Cypress is a pretty soft wood, wouldn’t expect it to hold up well for a countertop surface.
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:12 pm to abitaman6363
WaterLox is what you want, but I don't know if you can find any local. No poly needed, the tung oil brings out the natural grain of the wood and a hardener protects the wood. It is not as hard as poly.
Waterlox being applied to Walnut
Waterlox being applied to Walnut
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:17 pm to LSUtigerME
quote:
Cypress is a pretty soft wood, wouldn’t expect it to hold up well for a countertop surface.
This/\
If you want a real smooth surface on that top, since you are using cypress, do this first. Take some shellac, either clear or orange and mix in 2 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part shellac and either wipe it on or brush it on the surfaces first. This makes what is called a "Piss Coat" and in less than an hour it will be dry enough to sand with 220 grit paper. The surface will come out slick as snot.
Cypress takes stain kind of spotty depending on the hardness of the grain and some places will be very dark, while others just take a bit of the stain. Using the "Piss coat" first makes stain go on more evenly.
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:39 pm to abitaman6363
The problem with surface coatings, even something as tough as marine grade varnish like Epifanes, is at some point you will have to refinish it and you have to take it all the way down.
Its a matter of philosophy but I would rather do the easy task more often than the very difficult less often.
I would always suggest, on a wood surface that will see cutting action, a food-safe penetrating protector like coconut derived MCT mixed with beeswax. Just have to rub in a new coat every once in a while. Real easy to work with. No sanding, no mess.
Thats what I have for my cutting boards.
Its a matter of philosophy but I would rather do the easy task more often than the very difficult less often.
I would always suggest, on a wood surface that will see cutting action, a food-safe penetrating protector like coconut derived MCT mixed with beeswax. Just have to rub in a new coat every once in a while. Real easy to work with. No sanding, no mess.
Thats what I have for my cutting boards.
This post was edited on 8/10/18 at 4:42 pm
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:41 pm to nola000
quote:
The problem with surface coatings, even something as tough as marine grade varnish like Epifanes, is at some point you will have to refinish it and you have to take it all the way down.
The waterlox does not require this, you can apply over an existing worn coating with no issues...
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:57 pm to wickowick
quote:
The waterlox does not require this, you can apply over an existing worn coating with no issues...
Interesting.
I looked this stuff up. Its a brand not a specific product.
Really high solids content which is great. Their "Marine Sealer" doesnt get into specifics as to what it actually is and I didnt check the MSDS but it does say that you can recoat worn finish without sanding.
Im wondering what adherence that creates. This could just be marketing. Does it actually melt into old coats like real shellac(190 proof dilution) or PVC glue? Maybe.
I would still trust beeswax, linseed oil, tung oil, etc. for penetrating sealers and shellac for hard coats. Because linseed, tung and most other natural oils will go rancid on a cutting surface I tend to stick with beeswax and shellac.
Natural, safe, inert and easily touched-up and re-coated.
Tried and true.
Save the hard, nasty shite for flooring. Moisture-cure poly. FTW!
This post was edited on 8/10/18 at 4:59 pm
Posted on 8/10/18 at 4:58 pm to nola000
quote:
Thats what I have for my cutting boards.
I have a cypress cutting board that needs some love. What do I need to get again?
Posted on 8/10/18 at 5:04 pm to lsualum01
quote:
owever, I would like to see some more pictures of the project.
Same here.
Looks nice.
I like to daydream.
May I live vicariously through your adventures?
This post was edited on 8/10/18 at 5:04 pm
Posted on 8/10/18 at 5:14 pm to nola000
I put waterlox on my wood floors in my house in 2008, a couple of weeks ago we went on vacation and I added a new coat. I could not move the couch off the floor for the refinish so I pushed it to the corner. There is a shine difference from original coat to new coat, but the dogs and kids will knock that down some.
You can see the shine difference in this photo when you catch the light at the right angle.
This flooring had a new coat added
You can see the shine difference in this photo when you catch the light at the right angle.
This flooring had a new coat added
Posted on 8/10/18 at 5:33 pm to lowhound
quote:
I have a cypress cutting board that needs some love. What do I need to get again?
Well, just know that Cypress isnt the best wood for cutting boards unless its really old with really old heart-cypress being even better.
People say that cypress has good rot resistance but thats a hold-over myth from the old days when old-growth cypress was still on the market. The shite you get now will rot and rot quick.
Cypress is also really soft.
All that being said, if you still want to save your board, get a natural penetrating oil thats food-safe and inert. Wont go rancid. There arent many options here and all Ive ever really found is MCT oil derived from coconuts. Apparently walnut oil and jojoba oil also do the trick but some people have allergies towards these. I use the Verdana brand...
Verdana
I then use pure beeswax as a top coat.
1.Find a large baking pan with sides that you can set the cutting board inside of.
2.Pour the MCT oil in the pan. Maybe a 1/3 of the way up the board or whatever depth your pan can handle without overflowing.
3. Wait until you see the oil bleeding up to the top of the board.
4. Now flip the board and wait for the same amount of time you did the first go around.
5. Your board should be completely saturated with MCT oil now. This will keep moisture from penetrating the board. The MCT oil stays liquid at room temp.
6. Now mix up a light ratio of say, 4:1/5:1 MCT oil to beeswax and coat all sides of the board.
7. After it sets up do a heavier ratio of say, 1:1 or 2:1. You have to heat these mixtures up to liquefy the beeswax.
8. Repeat.
For maintenance just do whatever ratio you like, clean the board and wipe on, Danielson.
This post was edited on 8/10/18 at 5:39 pm
Posted on 8/10/18 at 5:35 pm to wickowick
Nice floors! I like rustic #3 T&G. Installers hate it. ;)
Posted on 8/10/18 at 5:45 pm to nola000
The waterlox is also foodsafe and can be used on butcher block and cutting boards. It is tung oil based
Posted on 8/11/18 at 7:57 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
If you want a real smooth surface on that top, since you are using cypress, do this first. Take some shellac, either clear or orange and mix in 2 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part shellac and either wipe it on or brush it on the surfaces first. This makes what is called a "Piss Coat" and in less than an hour it will be dry enough to sand with 220 grit paper. The surface will come out slick as snot.
Thanks for the recommendations. I ended up doing Minwax water-based pre-stain followed by a water based stain. I am going to use a hybrid Polyurea I was able to get from a family member.
I should have gone with the Piss Coat as I realized after staining that the carpenter had used some wood filler on the counter nails that was spread much larger than the face of the nails. I never saw these while sanding/pre-staining. Wood filler causes stains to blotch and I imagine the recommended applying the recommended piss coat would have avoided that.
Woodlox sounded like a good idea--but given that HD/Lowes don't carry it and Holmes is close most of the weekend I went with what was available.
Thanks for the help. Photos forthcoming for those that wanted to see more of the project.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 8:05 pm to abitaman6363
Waterlox should be your only purchase here.
Posted on 8/11/18 at 8:41 pm to abitaman6363
should have used a hard wax oil stain and then a water base polly solids don't yield better ware
Posted on 8/16/18 at 1:40 pm to Cracker
Couple of ya'll asked to see photos of the project. Van progress thread (with photos) is below. I plan to wrap up the van in the next 2-3 days and hit the road.
TIGERDROPPINGS THREAD LINK
TIGERDROPPINGS THREAD LINK
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