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All things food plots - spring and fall
Posted on 1/13/25 at 12:32 pm
Posted on 1/13/25 at 12:32 pm
We bought new property last year, didn’t have time for a bunch of prep prior to season but want to get going with a solid plan this spring.
We are wanting to plant spring plots and have a few questions:
- ideally these would be the same place as fall plots correct?
- what are good options to plant? A mixture of things I would assume? Soybeans?
- when is best time to plant? Assume it’s based on soil temp?
- when it comes time to plant for fall, just cut them and disc them?
We will be sending off a few soil samples also to ensure we have the soil setup properly.
What am I missing?
This is in Pearl River county MS
We are wanting to plant spring plots and have a few questions:
- ideally these would be the same place as fall plots correct?
- what are good options to plant? A mixture of things I would assume? Soybeans?
- when is best time to plant? Assume it’s based on soil temp?
- when it comes time to plant for fall, just cut them and disc them?
We will be sending off a few soil samples also to ensure we have the soil setup properly.
What am I missing?
This is in Pearl River county MS
This post was edited on 1/13/25 at 12:33 pm
Posted on 1/13/25 at 12:37 pm to Theboot32
MSU Deer Lab will help you for free
Posted on 1/13/25 at 12:39 pm to DirtyMikeandtheBoys
Just email them?
Posted on 1/13/25 at 12:42 pm to Theboot32
How many acres are you going to plant? Soybeans will get hammered unless you can plant large acreage such 5-10ac fields.
A simple but effective strategy would be to plan clover seeds in the next month or so, they can be just spread out before a rain on bushhogged fields. Look up frost seeding.
Then come back over those areas and plant a mixture of oats elbon rye and wheat and clover in tbe fall sometime around mid October.
You can then add more clover in tbe spring next year rinse and repeat.
A simple but effective strategy would be to plan clover seeds in the next month or so, they can be just spread out before a rain on bushhogged fields. Look up frost seeding.
Then come back over those areas and plant a mixture of oats elbon rye and wheat and clover in tbe fall sometime around mid October.
You can then add more clover in tbe spring next year rinse and repeat.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 12:51 pm to Theboot32
This guy has a series on YouTube and sounds fairly convincing. I've been watching and about to implement some of his methods
Growing Deer TV
Growing Deer TV
Posted on 1/13/25 at 1:53 pm to Theboot32
Hinge cutting did more for my property than anything else. It takes some planning and some commitment, but it keeps more bucks on my property than before. I focused on areas on ridges that would give them plenty of protection and areas where they would be protected from bad weather.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 2:01 pm to Theboot32
Yes or Instagram message them.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 2:36 pm to Theboot32
quote:
spring plots
Say "Summer Plots" lol
The first thing you should do is take soil samples to your nearest MSU Extension office. Be sure to request an analysis of organic matter as well.
To answer your questions in order:
1. **Should I use the same plots?**
Yes, stick with the same plots.
2. **What should I plant?**
- Plant **American Joint Vetch** (not just any deer vetch) in 2/3 of your plots.
- In the remaining 1/3, plant a **clover blend**.
- Avoid soybeans unless you either use an electric fence or have over 10 acres per plot. Otherwise, deer will overbrowse them before they can establish.
3. **When should I plant?**
- Timing depends on **soil temperature and moisture**. Always plant as close to a rain as possible. Personally, I like to plant right as the rain starts!
- For **summer plots**, aim for May. For **fall plots**, November works best. (I’m in southwest Mississippi for reference.)
4. **Annual vs. Perennial Crops:**
- Keep 2/3 of your plots as **annuals** and 1/3 as **perennials** (e.g., clover). Perennials regrow yearly, saving you time and money while feeding deer year-round. Exclusively planting annuals creates gaps in food availability, especially during critical times for deer.
### Soil Preparation
Chances are, your soil will need lime. After your soil test, apply the prescribed amount (a co-op truck can help) and disc the plots thoroughly. Then, do a complete burndown using a herbicide like Roundup.
If possible, consider **burning the plots** to control weeds effectively. Starting with a weed-free plot will save you a lot of trouble later.
For planting, you can use a **no-till drill** or the **broadcast method**, depending on your preference. Here's the trade-off:
- **Disc planting** creates attractive plots but requires more fertilizer.
- **No-till methods** build healthier soil over time, reducing the need for fertilizer.
### Money-Saving Tips
1. Get a **soil sample** and work with your local co-op to understand what grows best in your area.
2. Use the prescribed fertilizer, at least for the first few years.
3. Create a solid seedbed by discing thoroughly in the first years.
4. If going no-till, read *Dirt to Soil* by Gabe Brown for guidance.
5. Talk to your **neighbors** about their planting schedules, but only take advice from those with successful plots.
6. **Don’t plant too early!** Planting before consistent rain leads to wasted time, effort, and money. Keep in mind that October is typically very dry in Mississippi.
7. Enlarge your plots to **at least 2 acres** if possible to reduce browsing pressure.
8. Use **excluder cages** (3x3 feet) to monitor deer pressure. If plots fail, you’ll know whether the cause is poor planting or overbrowsing.
9. If deer density is too high, harvest at least **one doe per 50 acres** (or more if needed).
### General Advice
- **Clover is your best friend.** It may not seem exciting, but with proper mowing, it can last up to five years and sustain your deer population. Some experienced hunters rely solely on clover.
- **Focus on habitat first.** The best food plots in the world won’t help if deer lack adequate bedding and browse. Use prescribed burns in your woods to enhance natural food sources. Contact the NRCS for professional guidance.
For more in-depth information, check out the *Land and Legacy* podcast. Food plots should always come second to quality habitat management!
This post was edited on 1/13/25 at 2:44 pm
Posted on 1/13/25 at 3:05 pm to Theboot32
Plant clover next month.
How many acres do yall have.
How many acres do yall have.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 5:37 pm to The Levee
Awesome info, really appreciate it.
The plots that are there now are tiny, will make them larger but not sure how large, an acre would be pushing it just based on the geography.
150 acres total ish
The plots that are there now are tiny, will make them larger but not sure how large, an acre would be pushing it just based on the geography.
150 acres total ish
Posted on 1/13/25 at 6:02 pm to Theboot32
You want 2-5% of your acreage to be food plots.
So on the high end of 5% that would be 7.5 acres of food plots total.
I’d rather have 2 3 acre plots than 6 1 acre plots.
Then you can withstand browsing pressure, have better plots, reduce time on the tractor, and really set up nice plots.
I’d like to see a map and I’m sure I could help.
So on the high end of 5% that would be 7.5 acres of food plots total.
I’d rather have 2 3 acre plots than 6 1 acre plots.
Then you can withstand browsing pressure, have better plots, reduce time on the tractor, and really set up nice plots.
I’d like to see a map and I’m sure I could help.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 6:11 pm to Theboot32
quote:
The plots that are there now are tiny, will make them larger but not sure how large, an acre would be pushing it just based on the geography. 150 acres total ish
As levee said 2-3 larger plots would be better than 5-6 smaller if you can open them up any.
Also focus on the ones that will allow you to access them with the least amount of disruption to the surrounding area think of bedding and predominant wind directions.
Some of the areas if you don’t plant them then just bushhog and let them grow back and they will be good browse and bedding.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 7:39 pm to The Levee
quote:
I’d rather have 2 3 acre plots than 6 1 acre plots.
I agree . That’s how we have it setup at home and seems to work well . The deer keep the plots eaten down.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 7:50 pm to DirtyMikeandtheBoys
quote:
MSU Deer Lab will help you for free
They have plenty of videos on YouTube and a lot or articles online too. You can also send in soil samples and they’ll tell you want you need to add. Food plots will be much more effective if the soil ph is right. Otherwise the crop can come up but it may not be palatable to the deer.
I’d try to plant some chestnut and persimmon trees also.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 7:52 pm to The Levee
quote:
Food plots should always come second to quality habitat management!
Great post, summed up perfectly with that statement.
Posted on 1/13/25 at 8:01 pm to Slickback
Also, if you’re putting in new plots and or a camp you MUST think about access as others mentioned before.
Make sure your camp is as close to the entry road as possible. People that put their campsite in the middle of the property are literally splitting the habitat. Quick in and out.
Put your plots where you can access with ease for a NORTH WIND. Deer move more with a north wind.
You can put a hang on stand for a south wind somewhere else on the field…or just go to Waffle House. It’s tough to resist hunting every opportunity but sometimes you’re doing more damage than good.
I’d make 2-3 bigger plots with stands/shoot-houses on the south side and with cover for entry from the south.
One more tip is to put the stand IN the woods. Bullets can make it through brush and twigs. In the summer it might seem too thick, but Ind late December and January, you’ll be naked out there on the edge of the field.
I try to put the stand back about 20 yards in the woods from the plot.
Next, you’ll want to find bedding areas and trails to each plot after they are established.
I should charge for this.
Make sure your camp is as close to the entry road as possible. People that put their campsite in the middle of the property are literally splitting the habitat. Quick in and out.
Put your plots where you can access with ease for a NORTH WIND. Deer move more with a north wind.
You can put a hang on stand for a south wind somewhere else on the field…or just go to Waffle House. It’s tough to resist hunting every opportunity but sometimes you’re doing more damage than good.
I’d make 2-3 bigger plots with stands/shoot-houses on the south side and with cover for entry from the south.
One more tip is to put the stand IN the woods. Bullets can make it through brush and twigs. In the summer it might seem too thick, but Ind late December and January, you’ll be naked out there on the edge of the field.
I try to put the stand back about 20 yards in the woods from the plot.
Next, you’ll want to find bedding areas and trails to each plot after they are established.
I should charge for this.
This post was edited on 1/13/25 at 8:05 pm
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