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Started By
Message
Any stitch and glue boatbuilders on here?
Posted on 4/2/25 at 1:33 pm
Posted on 4/2/25 at 1:33 pm
Fixing to start a stitch and glue skiff build and just wanted to see if any fellow OB posters had undertaken such a project. Finishing up my mobile cradle this week and placed an order for epoxy resin and glass today. Gonna build the 17’ tango skiff. Been a while since I have had a boat and new prices are absurd plus I like a good project. If any of you have built a glass on ply type boat chime in with your experiences.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 1:52 pm to bayoudude
I looked into that a while back and built one of the s&g pirogue designs as a test project. The little pirogue was great, but before I started on the skiff I found a great deal on a used boat. As long as you have the time and a nice space to work it should be great.
One thing I noticed, I used a little more resin that they called for and the pirogue ended up a heavier than advertised. Go easy on the resin.
One thing I noticed, I used a little more resin that they called for and the pirogue ended up a heavier than advertised. Go easy on the resin.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 2:04 pm to dat yat
Workspace is no problem I have a 36x60 enclosed shop with cement floor.
Plans called for 5 gallons of resin so I ordered a 9 gallon kit as I plan to put more glass than the plans. Completed skiff should be in the 400-500 lb range. Bare hull no engine or rigging
Plans called for 5 gallons of resin so I ordered a 9 gallon kit as I plan to put more glass than the plans. Completed skiff should be in the 400-500 lb range. Bare hull no engine or rigging
This post was edited on 4/2/25 at 2:06 pm
Posted on 4/2/25 at 2:05 pm to bayoudude
I've been thinking about it for a few years. Back during covid lockdowns I built a pirogue and it came out pretty nice. Made it from 1/4" plywood, I don't remember what weight cloth I used. I didn't use marine plywood, just outdoor. From what I've read the glue used on outdoor plywood is pretty much the same as on marine, there's just more knotholes in it. It's 5 years old and holding up well. I couldn't find latex gloves so I went in raw on the fiberglass epoxy. Took at least a week to get all that shite off my hands.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 2:08 pm to Loup
I plan to do the same in regards to the plywood. From what I read as long as it has waterproof glue and is relatively free of imperfections it should be fine especially since it will be covered in glass and fairing compound. Prices out marine ply and it’s $104 a sheet for 4x8 I’ll take my chances with exterior grade sanded ac
Posted on 4/2/25 at 3:00 pm to bayoudude
Its a lot of work and some of it is pretty tedious....depending of course on how fine a finish you want. I have built a plywood duck boats and glassed them up. I have done a good bit of glass work on factory boats that I have restored and it is a LOT of work and takes a lot of patience to get it looking like something resembling a finished product. It can be done though, it is not difficult and doesn't require any overly special skills, just a lot of work and some of it is pretty tedious.
You mention using extra glass. I don't know where the designers get off with their estimates of resin but they are experts....hobbyists, especially first time hobbyists, are pretty likely to use a LOT more resin than the experts say is required...and that means the hull is going to be MUCH heavier than advertised...and the extra weight does nothing about increasing HP ratings so its a double edged sword. I have seen some properly finished Garvey hulls done by builders who know their shite and they are light as a feather....but most people would build one that was as heavy or heavie than a similar aluminum hull.
It is highly unlikely you can build a hull cheaper than you can buy one. Marine grade plywood and resin is insanely expensive. All you have is a hull....it still has to be wired and rigged and needs a trailer....all of that is where the money is....they will almost give you a hull if you will buy a new outboard. It is FAR more cost effective to restore a hull with acceptable power and a trailer that can be restored....it is entirely possible to find them and folks will sign them over to you to them out of the yard.
Be EXTREMELY careful about trying to use exterior grade plywood....even modern AC or AB or AA Fir is probably unsuitable for structural components and even for non-structural components it is liable to delaminate on you once it is glassed and it will be a mess. Modern exterior grade plywood, hell ALL plywood manufacturing in North America, is almost useless due to voids and delamination problems. ANY plywood sold at a big box store and most that is sold by building material suppliers is almost useless.
You mention using extra glass. I don't know where the designers get off with their estimates of resin but they are experts....hobbyists, especially first time hobbyists, are pretty likely to use a LOT more resin than the experts say is required...and that means the hull is going to be MUCH heavier than advertised...and the extra weight does nothing about increasing HP ratings so its a double edged sword. I have seen some properly finished Garvey hulls done by builders who know their shite and they are light as a feather....but most people would build one that was as heavy or heavie than a similar aluminum hull.
It is highly unlikely you can build a hull cheaper than you can buy one. Marine grade plywood and resin is insanely expensive. All you have is a hull....it still has to be wired and rigged and needs a trailer....all of that is where the money is....they will almost give you a hull if you will buy a new outboard. It is FAR more cost effective to restore a hull with acceptable power and a trailer that can be restored....it is entirely possible to find them and folks will sign them over to you to them out of the yard.
Be EXTREMELY careful about trying to use exterior grade plywood....even modern AC or AB or AA Fir is probably unsuitable for structural components and even for non-structural components it is liable to delaminate on you once it is glassed and it will be a mess. Modern exterior grade plywood, hell ALL plywood manufacturing in North America, is almost useless due to voids and delamination problems. ANY plywood sold at a big box store and most that is sold by building material suppliers is almost useless.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 3:12 pm to bayoudude
quote:
I plan to do the same in regards to the plywood. From what I read as long as it has waterproof glue and is relatively free of imperfections it should be fine especially since it will be covered in glass and fairing compound. Prices out marine ply and it’s $104 a sheet for 4x8 I’ll take my chances with exterior grade sanded ac
The hull you are talking about building is fairly complex...I would suggest doing some researching and talking to people who have built them and similar hulls....using big box plywood to build a complex hull has proven disastrous many, many times. The resin and glass is going to cost the same, the ply wood is what, $1700 compared to $600 for ACX Fir, if you can find it? I'd reconsider.....
Posted on 4/2/25 at 3:27 pm to bayoudude
I have a book I bought, was gonna try to build one. There are some really cool designs. But once you really start looking at it, seems like it's cheaper and a hell of a lot easier to just buy you a boat.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 3:55 pm to GasMan
Pretty sure this designer is no expert just selling cheap plans for a boat he built through trial and error. Also find me a new 17’-6”x6’ hull I can buy new for under $3000 and I’m all over it. Hell a 16’ all weld gonna run you $7,000 bare hull. Definitely easier but for the $10-12k I’ll probably have in this boat motor and trailer won’t get me anything newer than 15yrs old and I’m not looking for someone else’s problems. Too late to talk about what’s easier I already started ordering materials. Being a naval architect myself I don’t put much faith in many so called experts. That said my expertise is steel and aluminum.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 4:57 pm to bayoudude
I built several of the bateau designs D15, PH18, and currently working on an Abaco 23.
I recommend spending the money to order proper marine grade plywood. I ordered my last shipment of ply from B&B Yacht Designs. The shipping is expensive but the marine plywood is necessary if you want a boat that will last.
Here is my phantom:
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Abaco 23 in progress:
I recommend spending the money to order proper marine grade plywood. I ordered my last shipment of ply from B&B Yacht Designs. The shipping is expensive but the marine plywood is necessary if you want a boat that will last.
Here is my phantom:

Abaco 23 in progress:

Posted on 4/2/25 at 7:47 pm to bayoudude
About 10 years ago I built a pacific dory style skiff with Spira International plans. I really enjoyed building it. Frames were 1 x 4 untreated pine sheeted with 1/2 inch plywood. ( regular untreated ) Outside fiberglassed and inside painted with eurathane. There is one 2 x 4 going down the center of the boat stem to stern. Deck screws and gorilla glue (poly eurathane base ) built it after Katrina got my other boat. Wanted to take the kids fishing and crabbing but a decent sized flat was thousands and still had low sides. I have hauled many dripping wet crab traps over the side of the boat and got caught in the rain a few times. Still going strong. I wish I knew how to post pictures.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 7:50 pm to bayoudude
I also wanted to add that I had a little over $1000 in material everything included.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 8:02 pm to bayoudude
would your initials happen to be C.O.?
I work with a fella, Nav Arch who is building a boat in his shop.
I work with a fella, Nav Arch who is building a boat in his shop.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 8:22 pm to bayoudude
Sounds like a fun project. That being said, I would never go on the water in a boat I built.
Posted on 4/2/25 at 8:32 pm to CHEDBALLZ
quote:
would your initials happen to be C.O.?
No not me
If this build goes well next one will be of my own design just wanted something simple to get my feet wet so to speak. Whole boat is made from 10 sheets of 1/2 “ ply. Been having the plans for years was given them as a gift just never got around to actually building it.
Boat will be used on the MS coast and Lake P
Posted on 4/2/25 at 9:39 pm to Bluegill
quote:
I built several of the bateau designs
I bought the plans of the bateau dory 16 about 15 years ago, it turns out buying the plans is the easy part.
Posted on 4/3/25 at 6:07 am to JRinNOLA
quote:
About 10 years ago I built a pacific dory style skiff with Spira International plans. I really enjoyed building it. Frames were 1 x 4 untreated pine sheeted with 1/2 inch plywood. ( regular untreated ) Outside fiberglassed and inside painted with eurathane. There is one 2 x 4 going down the center of the boat stem to stern. Deck screws and gorilla glue (poly eurathane base ) built it after Katrina got my other boat. Wanted to take the kids fishing and crabbing but a decent sized flat was thousands and still had low sides. I have hauled many dripping wet crab traps over the side of the boat and got caught in the rain a few times. Still going strong. I wish I knew how to post pictures.
The spira boats aren't true stitch and glue boats....they rely on frames as part of the integrity of the hull where true stitch and glue construction gets its strength from the fiberglass, not the ribs and stringers. The Spira Pacific Dory's could and have been built without any fiberglassing. They are INCREDIBLE hulls by the way....the boats that Spira used to sell plans for were some fantastic designs....some of those bayou hulls are incredible.
Posted on 4/3/25 at 6:11 am to deeprig9
quote:
I bought the plans of the bateau dory 16 about 15 years ago, it turns out buying the plans is the easy part.
It is indeed. I bought 2 of the Garvey plans and have never done nothing but study them LOL. I am seriously thinking about doing the 14 footer with stick steering and Mercury Pro Kicker 9.9 hp mainly for the Ogeechee river but also for bream fishing smaller rives in Georgia and SC.
For some reason, having read your posts in the past on boats and boat building, I had concluded that you may be Cracker Larry from Boat Builder Central (bateau). Don't ask me why but at some point I read a post of yours and though this might be so....that dude can build a boat!
Posted on 4/3/25 at 6:30 am to AwgustaDawg
With a 10hp on a tango skiff you can put around all day fishing on 3 gallons of gas. I use my D15 for bream fishing and I can make multiple fishing trips on 3 gallons of gas.
Posted on 4/3/25 at 8:11 am to Bluegill
quote:
With a 10hp on a tango skiff you can put around all day fishing on 3 gallons of gas. I use my D15 for bream fishing and I can make multiple fishing trips on 3 gallons of gas.
I have a 13 foot low side Gheenoe that I have owned since I was 18 years old (41 years dammit Im old) and my plan was to turn it into my small water bream boat with a 9.9 HP mercury pro kicker and stick steering but I think as I get older the flat bottom of the Garvey hull would be way more comfortable than a Gheenoe hull. The Gheenoe is EXTREMELY stable but it is very tight compared to the G14 with is 48 inches across the bottom at the transom. My Gheenoe is probably 36 inches across the bottom at the widest point but at the transom it is about 2 feet across...
The best thing I could is buy a 1448 modified vee john boat....it would be cheaper....but building it seems like it would be satisfying. Even knowing how badly fiberglassing anything sucks it seems like it'd be satisfying....
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