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Message
Best way to clean a rusty Winchester .30-30 lever action?
Posted on 12/1/15 at 4:48 pm
Posted on 12/1/15 at 4:48 pm
I recently inherited my Dad's Winchester .30-30 that he treated pretty rough.
It's been in the back of a closet for the better part of the last 20 years and has surface rust on it.
What's the best products and method to cleaning this gun up? Id like to possibly use it to deer hunt next year.
It's been in the back of a closet for the better part of the last 20 years and has surface rust on it.
What's the best products and method to cleaning this gun up? Id like to possibly use it to deer hunt next year.
Posted on 12/1/15 at 5:01 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
You want oil, something like CLP and a soft bronze metal brush. It will take care of it in short order without damaging the bluing anymore...
Posted on 12/1/15 at 6:57 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
Steel wool (#3 or #4) and Hoppes #9 solvent, plus oil of your choice.
Posted on 12/1/15 at 7:29 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
Very fine steel wool or the softer scotch pads and a light solvent like Hoppes or WD40. WD40 works great and is cheaper to use. Have plenty of old rags too and be generous with the solvent. Get a good, strong bore solvent like Copper Killer too, if there is surface rust you can bet the bore has been neglected. Give it a generous coating of CLP and let it set for a couple of days then wipe it all down again with dry rags.
Posted on 12/1/15 at 7:52 pm to Clames
And if it's only surface rust, you can always re-blue the rifle. I'd recommend Oxpho-Blue.
LC
LC
Posted on 12/1/15 at 8:09 pm to LongueCarabine
(no message)
This post was edited on 12/7/15 at 12:52 pm
Posted on 12/1/15 at 8:10 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
quote:
I recently inherited my Dad's Winchester .30-30 that he treated pretty rough.
It's been in the back of a closet for the better part of the last 20 years and has surface rust on it.
What's the best products and method to cleaning this gun up? Id like to possibly use it to deer hunt next year.
Go get a box of #2 pencils, sharpen one and scribble the rust off with it if it is slight surface rust. It will remove it and not damage the finish.
If this does not work I would step up to something mildly more abrasive like the bronze brush.
Posted on 12/1/15 at 8:10 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
dp
This post was edited on 12/1/15 at 8:32 pm
Posted on 12/1/15 at 8:13 pm to TigerNAtux
quote:
Steel wool (#3 or #4)
No, just no. I use WD40 and 0000 steel wool. It works perfectly. 3 or 4 steel wool will scratch the hell out of the finish and take off bluing.
Posted on 12/1/15 at 8:51 pm to Kcrad
Sorry... Meant 3 aught or 4 aught.
Posted on 12/1/15 at 11:06 pm to Kcrad
Here's what they looked like.


Posted on 12/2/15 at 9:45 am to NatalbanyTigerFan
Bronze, copper or brass wool or brush. 0000 steel if that isn't taking care of it. I prefer to use it dry and shake it out and wipe the dust off frequently. Iron Oxide if a fairly aggressive abrasive and the problem I see a lot of people doing when using oil is they rub the rust/oil slurry on the bluing and that removes the bluing. If you want to use oil you need to frequently flood the piece and your wool to wash away the rust/oil slurry and change pads frequently. I think it's easier/cleaner to use the wool dry and shake/blow/wipe the dry rust out instead. With or without oil don't rub the removed rust into the piece as that is what normally removes the bluing not the wool itself. Oil or no oil will both give you a good clean finish as long as you can keep from rubbing the rust into the piece. Also use light pressure and let the wool do the work. No need to aggressively scrub and try to take all the rust off in one or two scrubs.
Posted on 12/2/15 at 11:03 am to NatalbanyTigerFan
Put it in storage and get a Marlin...
Posted on 12/2/15 at 7:57 pm to NatalbanyTigerFan
Thanks to all for the great advice!
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