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Boat Re-wiring Recommendations
Posted on 1/22/23 at 11:53 am
Posted on 1/22/23 at 11:53 am
Looking to get my boat completely re-wired. Anyone had this done around the BR area? Willing to travel a little bit for someone reputable.
4
Posted on 1/22/23 at 12:11 pm to GeauxTime9
Pellegrini marine in covington
Posted on 1/22/23 at 1:46 pm to GeauxTime9
La boat Wrx
Had them do some work on an older boat. They did a good job, and were very good to work with. There are some pictures on their website of their wiring setups.
Had them do some work on an older boat. They did a good job, and were very good to work with. There are some pictures on their website of their wiring setups.
This post was edited on 1/22/23 at 1:48 pm
Posted on 1/22/23 at 2:49 pm to GeauxTime9
Paging CP3. I know he did his. Not sure if he plans on doing any on the side or not. He will at least lead you in right direction.
Posted on 1/22/23 at 7:47 pm to headedwest21
I do them on the side, but honestly I already took too many on this year and I want weekends open to fish. Go to Pellegrini marine in Covington. Seen his setup, you won’t be disappointed
Posted on 1/22/23 at 7:59 pm to CP3
That being said if you aren’t in a rush I can do it after the summer. I’m in BR.
Posted on 1/22/23 at 8:21 pm to CP3
quote:
CP3
That’s phenomenal work. I’m trying to get it done before summer, I put it off last year. If something changes I’ll be in touch.
Posted on 1/23/23 at 9:55 am to CP3
Don't want to derail Op's thread but was curious if you could ballpark a price for a complete rewire of a 23 bay boat? I'll be looking before long and just wanted to have an idea of what would be reasonable. TIA.
Posted on 1/23/23 at 9:35 pm to Sea Hoss
Depends on how extensive and time consuming it is. And what components get replaced. Best guess for boat that size probably ballpark $2500-$5000 all in. Haven’t really done any smaller boats though to be honest. For reference 36ft boat I’m doing now is strictly new wiring, switch panel, breakers and Replacing a few broken pumps and lights. I think materials/parts are somewhere around $2500-$3k at this point.
This post was edited on 1/23/23 at 9:38 pm
Posted on 1/24/23 at 6:22 am to GeauxTime9
What kind of boat are we talking about here? I’ve done a little bit of boat wiring in my time at DWM.. Look us up and contact our office if you’re interested in possibly getting on our schedule.
Posted on 1/24/23 at 7:46 am to davidwademarine
The empire boat you did is insane 
Posted on 1/24/23 at 10:03 am to CP3
I have done some wiring on my boat but I have to say CP3 and DWM you guys are in a different league.
Posted on 1/24/23 at 10:11 am to CP3
Holy shite I almost got a woody....nice damn work 
ETA: that's all fine and dandy until you gotta fix something and take it all apart
ETA: that's all fine and dandy until you gotta fix something and take it all apart
This post was edited on 1/24/23 at 10:13 am
Posted on 1/24/23 at 11:15 am to davidwademarine
Another unrelated question...
I've starting doing this for my wiring in side by sides. It helps me keep track of circuits and remove/add items later.
But I've never considered long term reliability until seeing the pictures yall posted.
That shite is art.
I've starting doing this for my wiring in side by sides. It helps me keep track of circuits and remove/add items later.
But I've never considered long term reliability until seeing the pictures yall posted.
That shite is art.
Posted on 1/24/23 at 11:33 am to X123F45
Yeah the goal is if you do it right shouldn’t have to go back and trace anything out later. Atleast not for a very long time. Everything I do gets heat shrink labels EVERYWHERE lol. I’ll leave service loops on most my jobs too in case something needs a new connector or something. I also draw up pretty detailed wiring diagrams in CAD as well. This is one I’m working on right now. Not quite as clean as I normally like, but it’s kind of a rush job for a charter capt and only have a total of 2.5 weekends to do it since I have a regular day job. Wrapping this one up this weekend.
This post was edited on 1/24/23 at 11:43 am
Posted on 1/24/23 at 5:05 pm to CP3
quote:
I feel like I'm missing something concerning that power wire. Does the bar continue from it into the bar above it?
quote:
the goal is if you do it right shouldn’t have to go back and trace anything out later.
Unfortunately, when changing to a new platform, some things are always pending running it.
I measure everything. I put enough lights for 360 degree lighting. Try to leave outlets and switches all prewired and ready to go. But inevitably some side or rear lighting will either be too much/little or need to be relocated.
Posted on 1/24/23 at 7:42 pm to X123F45
The coiled power wires are for the amps. Haven’t connected them yet. Have to mount the 60A breakers first. The power/ground bus bars with covers on the right side feed all the other electronics. Switch panel, smaller breaker panels, etc. I still have to run the main power wires from batteries under seat to those too. Also still have to wire in switch panel which is the left side of smaller bus bar and terminal strips. The small bus bar is power feed to the switch panel which will be hooked up this weekend.
The amps will have a dedicated 2awg power/ground pair (split to a 60A breaker for each amp where the wires are coiled) back to the battery management panel in the seat. Larger breaker in battery panel protects the 2awg run to the console/amp breakers. A separate 2awg power/ground pair will feed everything else (which will be connected to the bus bars on right).
Actually building out the new battery management panel that will go under seat as we speak.
Main breaker protects 2awg run for the electronics bus. Amp breaker protects 2awg run for amps. Don’t worry I’m replacing the corroded power posts and putting actual labels on the breakers eventually
The amps will have a dedicated 2awg power/ground pair (split to a 60A breaker for each amp where the wires are coiled) back to the battery management panel in the seat. Larger breaker in battery panel protects the 2awg run to the console/amp breakers. A separate 2awg power/ground pair will feed everything else (which will be connected to the bus bars on right).
Actually building out the new battery management panel that will go under seat as we speak.
Main breaker protects 2awg run for the electronics bus. Amp breaker protects 2awg run for amps. Don’t worry I’m replacing the corroded power posts and putting actual labels on the breakers eventually
This post was edited on 1/24/23 at 7:45 pm
Posted on 1/25/23 at 12:12 am to CP3
Still art to me
Most people in side by sides run generic wire and prebuilt relay harnesses.
I've taken to wiring like a boat. Half the fun of owning the damned thing for me is mapping, routing, and outfitting everything. The last few I don't think I've kept more than 8 months then do it all over again.
This one is a little different because I'm using deutsch plugs on all accessories. After a few months, the harness is being removed, and I'm heat shrinking it all together and reinstalling. Completely freaking pointless given the coated ancor wiring... But it'll be a nice challenge. Tempted to try to recreate the harness for other lunatics.
Most people in side by sides run generic wire and prebuilt relay harnesses.
I've taken to wiring like a boat. Half the fun of owning the damned thing for me is mapping, routing, and outfitting everything. The last few I don't think I've kept more than 8 months then do it all over again.
This one is a little different because I'm using deutsch plugs on all accessories. After a few months, the harness is being removed, and I'm heat shrinking it all together and reinstalling. Completely freaking pointless given the coated ancor wiring... But it'll be a nice challenge. Tempted to try to recreate the harness for other lunatics.
This post was edited on 1/25/23 at 12:14 am
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