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Chamberbitter help - the ultimate SE LA weed
Posted on 9/5/17 at 10:19 am
Posted on 9/5/17 at 10:19 am
Why not another weed thread? This one is specific for Chamberbitter.
This is my 4th year battling Chamberbitter and its worse year yet. This weed is not supposed to like water but its thriving. I think the only thing that kills it back is prolonged frost.
Ive tried many of the popular box store pre and post emergants with no success. Even the ones that say it is effective for Chamberbitter. This weed grows through weed fabric and grows in mulch and pinestraw. The only good thing is that its relatively an easy weed to pull and roots come up with it. Issue with that is that the weed doubles in size every week and drop seeds in two weeks.
It is easily maintained where it can be cut regularly with mower or trimmer. Its mainly a problem at edges of flower bed and in flower bed.
How do you OBers tackle Chamberbitter? Its too late for pre emergent this year so Im looking for some type of post emergent right now.
This is my 4th year battling Chamberbitter and its worse year yet. This weed is not supposed to like water but its thriving. I think the only thing that kills it back is prolonged frost.
Ive tried many of the popular box store pre and post emergants with no success. Even the ones that say it is effective for Chamberbitter. This weed grows through weed fabric and grows in mulch and pinestraw. The only good thing is that its relatively an easy weed to pull and roots come up with it. Issue with that is that the weed doubles in size every week and drop seeds in two weeks.
It is easily maintained where it can be cut regularly with mower or trimmer. Its mainly a problem at edges of flower bed and in flower bed.
How do you OBers tackle Chamberbitter? Its too late for pre emergent this year so Im looking for some type of post emergent right now.
6
Posted on 9/5/17 at 10:32 am to AutoYes_Clown
Mine is getting bad. I just pull it.
Posted on 9/5/17 at 10:43 am to AutoYes_Clown
Looks like a baby mimosa tree.
Posted on 9/5/17 at 11:01 am to AutoYes_Clown
"Because few selective postemergence options are available for controlling broadleaves infesting ornamentals, preemergence herbicides are the backbone of weed management in flower beds and nurseries. Unfortunately, chamberbitter responds erratically to most preemergence herbicides labeled for ornamentals. However, a few preemergence herbicides provide at least suppression of the weed. Herbicides that contain oxyfluorfen (Rout, OH2 and others), flumioxazin (Sure Guard and Broadstar) and isoxaben (Snapshot, Gallery) are useful in reducing chamberbitter populations in perennial groundcovers and woody plants. Dimethenamid-containing herbicides (Free Hand and Tower) can be moderately effective in bedding plants. Always follow product labels and precautions when using herbicides in and around ornamentals.
With all preemergence herbicides, it is important to apply them before weeds germinate.
Chamberbitter is a tropical plant that starts germinating as temperatures warm in the springtime, usually late April, so apply preemergence herbicides accordingly. Re-apply as directed by the product label. In landscape beds, a good thick mulch will also help suppress chamberbitter emergence, especially when used in conjunction with an effective preemergence herbicide.
Since chamberbitter is a prolific seed producer, it is extremely important to not allow emerged plants to produce seed and add more seed to the soil weed seed bank. Either hand-remove the weed or apply a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate to destroy populations before they have a chance to produce seeds.
Chamberbitter is an extremely difficult weed to manage in ornamental settings. It will take an integrated management approach that includes mulch and preemergence herbicides along with frequent hand weeding and glyphosate applications to reduce populations in nurseries and landscape beds."
From Dr. Strahan himself
With all preemergence herbicides, it is important to apply them before weeds germinate.
Chamberbitter is a tropical plant that starts germinating as temperatures warm in the springtime, usually late April, so apply preemergence herbicides accordingly. Re-apply as directed by the product label. In landscape beds, a good thick mulch will also help suppress chamberbitter emergence, especially when used in conjunction with an effective preemergence herbicide.
Since chamberbitter is a prolific seed producer, it is extremely important to not allow emerged plants to produce seed and add more seed to the soil weed seed bank. Either hand-remove the weed or apply a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate to destroy populations before they have a chance to produce seeds.
Chamberbitter is an extremely difficult weed to manage in ornamental settings. It will take an integrated management approach that includes mulch and preemergence herbicides along with frequent hand weeding and glyphosate applications to reduce populations in nurseries and landscape beds."
From Dr. Strahan himself
Posted on 9/5/17 at 11:02 am to Clyde Tipton
quote:
Chamberbitter (Phyllanthus urinaria) is also known as gripeweed (as mentioned above) and by other names like leafflower or little mimosa due to it’s resemblance to the mimosa tree.
Posted on 9/5/17 at 11:14 am to AutoYes_Clown
I get them in my flowerbeds but not enough to where I can’t easily pull them out by hand
Posted on 9/5/17 at 11:16 am to RatLTrap
I pull mine before I ever see seeds. I've never seen seeds on mine, yet I keep getting more.
Posted on 9/5/17 at 12:00 pm to bootlegger
quote:
"It will take an integrated management approach that includes mulch and preemergence herbicides along with frequent hand weeding and glyphosate application."
I question the Dr's information because I have 3" pine mulch in flower beds and 6" cypress mulch in the vegetable garden. Ive tried several variations and thickness. I had pinestraw 2 years ago and it didnt supress it. Pinestraw was better but it still grows in and on top of mulch.
Chamberbitter laughs at 1% glyphosate. Maybe I need to to up the concentration but I get worried about scorching my yard.
Posted on 9/5/17 at 12:16 pm to AutoYes_Clown
I'd laugh at it too. Try 47% concentrate
Posted on 9/5/17 at 12:38 pm to CypressTrout10
He's talking about solution
Posted on 9/5/17 at 1:54 pm to bootlegger
I just sprayed some 24d with spreader sticker I hate that shite. I pull a lot of it
Posted on 9/5/17 at 1:56 pm to AutoYes_Clown
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but i have a big Chamberbitter problem as well. What in particular should i put down and when do you spray/spread?
TIA
TIA
Posted on 9/5/17 at 2:01 pm to ole man
Diquat kills it dead. Been fighting it in beds for years. Gonna try a pre-emerge this spring to see if it will knock it out.
Also about to try Remedy in my centipede and St. Aug.
It's the only weed that is born pregnant.
Also about to try Remedy in my centipede and St. Aug.
It's the only weed that is born pregnant.
Posted on 9/5/17 at 9:35 pm to AutoYes_Clown
We use Rout in landscape beds with good success. We always apply a thick layer of pine straw. Chamberbitter will germinate in some mulches, especially cypress mulch so we avoid that as much as we can. Celsius works pretty good in the turf as well
Boot is right - Allways follow Dr Stahan's advice
Boot is right - Allways follow Dr Stahan's advice
This post was edited on 9/5/17 at 9:38 pm
Posted on 9/5/17 at 9:48 pm to AutoYes_Clown
If you can get around desired species, spot spray Arsenal and Diuron this fall. If any make it, hit it with Archer or Grazon P+D.
Posted on 9/5/17 at 9:53 pm to bootlegger
Who is Dr. Strahan? Would that be Ron Strahan?
Posted on 9/5/17 at 10:15 pm to LSU Neil
Yes
Posted on 9/6/17 at 8:13 pm to bootlegger
He and I worked as student workers together at LSU in the Ag. Dept. Fun times. He is a good guy.
Posted on 9/6/17 at 8:21 pm to LSU Neil
He sure knows his stuff, and seems to enjoy teaching others about turf management.
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