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Re flooring an aluminum boat
Posted on 11/24/17 at 11:56 am
Posted on 11/24/17 at 11:56 am
My parents have a 16 foot lund Aluminum boat that is 20 years old. It's been sitting for years. It's an 98 model. Anyway they have been tinkering with the engine and rebuilt it where it runs now. Problem is the inside is shot. It's all carped ply wood which I started ripping out and will replace. The issue I'm having is the floor is 3/4 plywood as well with some sort of ruberish cover that's riveted to the hulk at the cross braces. Any recommendations on a place local that can re do the floor? I'm not sure where I can get this material and know nothing about rivets. I can handle the rest but I'm stumped. I would like to just leave it however it's severely rotten. I'm wanting to overhaul it for my parents so they have a boat to go fishing in.
Also, can I reply with 3/4 ply wood and prime it then rhino line? Not sure if it will stick to ply wood.
Also, can I reply with 3/4 ply wood and prime it then rhino line? Not sure if it will stick to ply wood.
5
Posted on 11/24/17 at 12:33 pm to coonass27
Can you post pics of the rivets in the floor? Usually they can just be drilled out but you run the risk of weakening the cross braces if there’s too many.
There are lots of options to replace the floor but dealing with those rivets is gonna be the holdup there.
There are lots of options to replace the floor but dealing with those rivets is gonna be the holdup there.
Posted on 11/24/17 at 12:36 pm to coonass27
Drill out the rivets and you can reinstall marine plywood with sandy paint. It will work just as well.
Posted on 11/24/17 at 12:57 pm to TBoy
I'll post some later as I'm no by it At the moment. There aren't to many. I'm thinking like 4 across on each brace. Now once I get them out, can I drill new holes or do I need to try and get the same ones?
Who sells marine plywood?
Who sells marine plywood?
Posted on 11/24/17 at 1:12 pm to coonass27
go with 1/2" ply, the 3/4 is overkill and just adds too much weight.
i used treated plywood and i found its best to leave it natural so it can fully dry. this keeps it from rotting and the plywood lasts a good 6-8 years or more. when i glued carpet to it or painted it it was all rotten in just 2-3 years because it traps moisture and doesnt let the wood dry out after getting wet. and my boat sits outside completely uncovered and exposed year round.
in my boat i just laid it in there and didnt secure it at all. this made it easy to lift the floor to clean out under it when leaves and trash or whatever starts blocking up the drains.
i had a fab shop put in an all aluminum floor in my brand new "basic" vee hull model 17ft x 52" Alweld boat. mainly did it since they were already going to be building storage seats and a casting deck for it too but it wasnt cheap. cost me $1200 including materials to have it done but man does it look and function great, zero maint for life too.
i used treated plywood and i found its best to leave it natural so it can fully dry. this keeps it from rotting and the plywood lasts a good 6-8 years or more. when i glued carpet to it or painted it it was all rotten in just 2-3 years because it traps moisture and doesnt let the wood dry out after getting wet. and my boat sits outside completely uncovered and exposed year round.
in my boat i just laid it in there and didnt secure it at all. this made it easy to lift the floor to clean out under it when leaves and trash or whatever starts blocking up the drains.
i had a fab shop put in an all aluminum floor in my brand new "basic" vee hull model 17ft x 52" Alweld boat. mainly did it since they were already going to be building storage seats and a casting deck for it too but it wasnt cheap. cost me $1200 including materials to have it done but man does it look and function great, zero maint for life too.
This post was edited on 11/24/17 at 1:17 pm
Posted on 11/24/17 at 3:20 pm to keakar
quote:
i used treated plywood
Treated plywood and aluminum don’t mix. Any aluminum touching it will corrode over time. Use marine grade.
Posted on 11/24/17 at 5:33 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:
Treated plywood and aluminum don’t mix. Any aluminum touching it will corrode over time. Use marine grade.
15 years of actual real world use, with absolutely no problems, as well as the building codes requirements on the use of certain chemicals in treated woods in direct contact with metals proves you wrong
while there weare certain types of toxic chemicals used to preserve wood many years ago that can and did react to direct contact with bare metal, these chemicals are no longer legal to use in the united states for treating wood. they rusted out nails holding walls to foundations, even galvanized nails and threaded rods had corrosive issues because of it and so they were quickly outlawed many years ago. but people love to keep spreading rumors about things they read on facebook but really dont know anything about
Posted on 11/24/17 at 6:24 pm to coonass27
use 3/8 starboard and some rubber weightroom floor squares.
Posted on 11/24/17 at 6:30 pm to keakar
quote:
15 years of actual real world use, with absolutely no problems, as well as the building codes requirements on the use of certain chemicals in treated woods in direct contact with metals proves you wrong
Ok dumbass. I currently own two aluminum boats and have worked on about a dozen. I’ve personally pulled the transom off of two boats that were done within the last 10 years with treated plywood, and the aluminum was paper thin and pitted. That’s actual real world use for you, but here’s also why. After they banned arsenate, they had to up the copper content to get the same rot resistance. It might not corrode certain metal as obviously in the short term, but it causes long term galvanic corrosion in aluminum, especially if you’re using the boat in salt. That’s a documented fact.
But by all means go ahead and slap treated in that new boat.
quote:
Today, pressure-treated lumber is treated with a range of inorganic chemicals rather than arsenate. Other common chemicals used are Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ), Copper Azole (CA), Sodium Borate (SBX), and Micronized Copper Quaternary (MCQ). These newer types of treated woods may be less toxic, but they also contain higher levels of copper, so they're much more corrosive than the old CCA-treated lumber. ? ?Many pressure-treated lumber manufacturers recommend using only stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized nails, screws, bolts, anchors, and connectors when working with the material. And because these new wood treatments are especially corrosive to aluminum, it's best to use vinyl or copper flashing, or to wrap the wood in a protective rubberized membrane.
Posted on 11/24/17 at 7:16 pm to coonass27
Honestly for an old piece of shite like that just go as cheap as possible. It will likely be used 3-4 times and then back sitting under a tree for 20 more years.
Posted on 11/25/17 at 7:43 am to diat150
Actually I want to make it decent as I'm going to keep it at my place. I have a boat house with 3 slips. I'll use it from time to time as well to run the smaller canals where my boat won't and frog. It's def a stump jumper and I could use it a lot.
Posted on 11/25/17 at 7:53 am to coonass27
If you want it to last a life time and never have to replace the floor again use starboard. Yes, it cost a shite load, but it will last forever.
You can buy it direct from US Plastics or the likes. Also another thing that can be used is a sheet of PVC. Most sign companies have big sheets of it. If you go that way, you might have to install some closed cell foam under it.
Both are good and just install some outdoor carpet on top.
You can buy it direct from US Plastics or the likes. Also another thing that can be used is a sheet of PVC. Most sign companies have big sheets of it. If you go that way, you might have to install some closed cell foam under it.
Both are good and just install some outdoor carpet on top.
Posted on 11/25/17 at 8:20 am to keakar
You're confident, but you're wrong. Anything containing copper will corrode aluminum, like treated lumber or even most anti-fouling bottom paints.
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