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Does anyone know anything about car audio? Specifically component speakers and a crossover
Posted on 5/22/23 at 8:19 pm
Posted on 5/22/23 at 8:19 pm
I’m confused about my vehicle and the component speakers I bought. The crossover for my speakers has an input for + and - and then there’s the positive and negative outputs for the woofer and the positive and negative outputs for the tweeter. I’m confused as to what wire I use for the crossover’s input. My vehicle has stock tweeters and stock door speakers. I bypassed the factory amp and everything is wired directly to a new head unit I installed. So I’m just confused as to what wires I connect to the crossover’s input.
There is one slot for the positive and negative speaker inputs, but I have positive and negative wiring for both the factory tweeters and factory door speakers.
How do I wire this damn thing?

There is one slot for the positive and negative speaker inputs, but I have positive and negative wiring for both the factory tweeters and factory door speakers.
How do I wire this damn thing?
Posted on 5/22/23 at 8:35 pm to PrimeTime Money
Power from head unit goes to speaker in. Tweeter wiring goes to tweeter and woofer wiring goes to woofer.
It's labeled.
It's labeled.
Posted on 5/22/23 at 10:42 pm to kengel2
So do I take the factory wire that was connected to the factory door woofer and connect it to the crossover speaker in input? Then connect crossover woofer out to the new woofer and the crossover tweeter out to the new tweeter? So I should be left with the unused factory tweeter wire?
Is that correct?
Is that correct?
This post was edited on 5/22/23 at 10:44 pm
Posted on 5/23/23 at 7:15 am to PrimeTime Money
Did you run new speaker wires from the head unit? Ideally, you'd want to send an unaltered signal to the input of the crossover, but your head unit will likely do some frequency tuning before the signal leaves the head unit. If your head unit has the option to send a "full pass" signal out, use that channel to send the signal to the input of the crossover.
Posted on 5/23/23 at 8:37 am to PrimeTime Money
I generally don't like passive crossovers, It's as difficult as this, but you might have other (better) options. What head unit did you buy to go with it?
The positive and negative leads out of the head unit go into the speaker in on the crossover unit. The unit splits the high and low frequencies by using resistors and capacitors. So connect the "tweeter out" to the positive and negative of the tweeters and the same for the mid/low speakers. It's not rocket surgery....

The positive and negative leads out of the head unit go into the speaker in on the crossover unit. The unit splits the high and low frequencies by using resistors and capacitors. So connect the "tweeter out" to the positive and negative of the tweeters and the same for the mid/low speakers. It's not rocket surgery....
Posted on 5/23/23 at 9:41 am to PrimeTime Money
With as much sincerity as possible, if you don't understand how this works get some in person help. Don't blow your speakers.
Posted on 5/23/23 at 9:52 am to armsdealer
quote:
if you don't understand how this works get some in person help. Don't blow your speakers.
The only way they could blow their speakers is if they wired the tweeters to the bass and vice versa. But in reality that wouldn't happen. They'd just sound like crap.
Posted on 5/23/23 at 10:17 am to armsdealer
quote:Don’t worry. I’m not going to hook anything up until I have a better understanding of the wiring and know exactly how it should be hooked up.
With as much sincerity as possible, if you don't understand how this works get some in person help. Don't blow your speakers.
This post was edited on 5/23/23 at 10:38 am
Posted on 5/23/23 at 10:20 am to TomSpanks
quote:I used a bypass harness to connect into the head unit, and on the other end it connects into wires that were connected into the factory amp’s output. It allowed me to bypass the factory amp without having to run all new wiring from the head unit to the speakers. Essentially it’s new wiring from the head unit to where the factory amp was that was removed, and a connection is made there with the factory wiring the rest of the way to the speakers.
Did you run new speaker wires from the head unit? Ideally, you'd want to send an unaltered signal to the input of the crossover, but your head unit will likely do some frequency tuning before the signal leaves the head unit. If your head unit has the option to send a "full pass" signal out, use that channel to send the signal to the input of the crossover.
This post was edited on 5/23/23 at 10:35 am
Posted on 5/23/23 at 12:45 pm to PrimeTime Money
quote:
I used a bypass harness to connect into the head unit, and on the other end it connects into wires that were connected into the factory amp’s output. It allowed me to bypass the factory amp without having to run all new wiring from the head unit to the speakers. Essentially it’s new wiring from the head unit to where the factory amp was that was removed, and a connection is made there with the factory wiring the rest of the way to the speakers.
How is the aftermarket wiring harness from the head unit wired? Is it just front and rear coming out of the head unit (8 speaker wires) or are their connections for tweeters and the mids/bass? (16 speaker wires) Depending on how you answer this question tells us how to proceed. If your car already has separate tweeters and mids/bass speakers it might already have a built in passive crossover and you won't have to worry with adding another one.
You likely could find the wiring diagram online by googling your cars year, make and model.
Posted on 5/23/23 at 12:50 pm to PrimeTime Money
Do you know if your head unit allows you to change the crossover points, or allows you to pass full/unaltered audio to each channel? If so, pick a channel, set it to full pass on the crossover setting, and use that channel as your crossover input.
Posted on 5/23/23 at 1:08 pm to Lonnie Utah
quote:The right front speaker and right front tweeter positive are wired together. Right front speaker negative and right front tweeter negative are wired together. And same thing for the left.
How is the aftermarket wiring harness from the head unit wired? Is it just front and rear coming out of the head unit (8 speaker wires) or are there connections for tweeters and the mids/bass? (16 speaker wires) Depending on how you answer this question tells us how to proceed. If your car already has separate tweeters and mids/bass speakers it might already have a built in passive crossover and you won't have to worry with adding another one.
You likely could find the wiring diagram online by googling your cars year, make and model.
The rear is not hooked up, but if it was, it would be 8 wires total. So to answer your question, front and rear it seems.
Posted on 5/23/23 at 8:57 pm to PrimeTime Money
What model of vehicle is this? My son’s Camry had door speaker and dash tweeter were wired together with an attenuator at the tweeter. I bought some adapter wiring from Tacotunes to utilize the stock wiring with component speakers. Maybe you need something similar.
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