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Price Alert Hisense U8K 100" TV $2,799 @ Amazon 100" U76N $2299 @ Best Buy
Posted on 9/8/24 at 2:24 am
Posted on 9/8/24 at 2:24 am
ETA I just got the price alert on the U76N so if you are interested in that skip to the end
Amazon
This has been the best performing sub $5k 98/100" TV over the last 10 months. It has a 144hz, local dimming, mini-LED, quantum dot tech VA panel*. It is also very bright listed at 1500 nits and has been third party tested consistently at about 3,000 nits. HDR content really needs a very bright TV as most is mastered at 1000 nits and more and more content is going to the 4,000 nits standard trying to get that in a projector especially with native 4K is serious money on anything but a tiny screen.
This really blurs the lines compared to a projector with a "smaller" screen. The TV will give similar PQ in a blacked-out room and smash even a UST projector with a CLR/ALR screen in moderate to high ambient light. If you are considering a 110 or 120" diagonal projector screen you might want to consider a 100" TV instead, of course, if you are considering something like 150" screen in a blacked-out room the immersion will be leagues apart you also can't put speakers behind a TV like you can with an acoustically transparent screen.
You can get an edge lit 98/100" TV for around $2k now but I can't imagine getting a TV that large and living with the compromise of being edge lit.
Note I assume Amazon includes in-room delivery and that may be all. Best Buy includes mounting, setup, and packing removal for free but their price is back up to $3299, it was 2999 the last few days.
Be aware if you are doing the install it comes in a big wood framed box which is nearly 8 feet long and weighs close to 220 pounds, the TV itself is over 160# so if you are planning to wall mount it where the TV has to be lifted with the arms once standing most people shouldn't rely on their wife on the other side.
*VA panels have higher contrast but lower viewing angle than an IPS panel so if you need a wide viewing angle you might want to research a little deeper.
Best Buy
While the U8K went up at Best Buy the U76N came down to $2299 which includes installation. I won't go into a full explanation of the differences but the U76 is a local dimming set the main differences are 256 zones of dimming vs 1620 in the U8 and 800 Nits for the U76 vs 1500 for the U8. The U8 will have a better picture but it won't be night and day and especially if you are used to a direct lit panel and OK with it the U76N will probably blow your socks off. I personally think the extra $500 is worth it but the U76 at $2300 installed is a heck of a deal for a massive TV.
Amazon
This has been the best performing sub $5k 98/100" TV over the last 10 months. It has a 144hz, local dimming, mini-LED, quantum dot tech VA panel*. It is also very bright listed at 1500 nits and has been third party tested consistently at about 3,000 nits. HDR content really needs a very bright TV as most is mastered at 1000 nits and more and more content is going to the 4,000 nits standard trying to get that in a projector especially with native 4K is serious money on anything but a tiny screen.
This really blurs the lines compared to a projector with a "smaller" screen. The TV will give similar PQ in a blacked-out room and smash even a UST projector with a CLR/ALR screen in moderate to high ambient light. If you are considering a 110 or 120" diagonal projector screen you might want to consider a 100" TV instead, of course, if you are considering something like 150" screen in a blacked-out room the immersion will be leagues apart you also can't put speakers behind a TV like you can with an acoustically transparent screen.
You can get an edge lit 98/100" TV for around $2k now but I can't imagine getting a TV that large and living with the compromise of being edge lit.
Note I assume Amazon includes in-room delivery and that may be all. Best Buy includes mounting, setup, and packing removal for free but their price is back up to $3299, it was 2999 the last few days.
Be aware if you are doing the install it comes in a big wood framed box which is nearly 8 feet long and weighs close to 220 pounds, the TV itself is over 160# so if you are planning to wall mount it where the TV has to be lifted with the arms once standing most people shouldn't rely on their wife on the other side.
*VA panels have higher contrast but lower viewing angle than an IPS panel so if you need a wide viewing angle you might want to research a little deeper.
Best Buy
While the U8K went up at Best Buy the U76N came down to $2299 which includes installation. I won't go into a full explanation of the differences but the U76 is a local dimming set the main differences are 256 zones of dimming vs 1620 in the U8 and 800 Nits for the U76 vs 1500 for the U8. The U8 will have a better picture but it won't be night and day and especially if you are used to a direct lit panel and OK with it the U76N will probably blow your socks off. I personally think the extra $500 is worth it but the U76 at $2300 installed is a heck of a deal for a massive TV.
This post was edited on 9/8/24 at 4:58 am
5
Posted on 9/8/24 at 7:57 pm to Obtuse1
Was in Best Buy today and it was on the wall. Looked good. I got the 75in u8n. Crazy how much bigger the 100” is. Dwarfs the 75.
Posted on 9/8/24 at 8:13 pm to Tschool
quote:
I got the 75in u8n
The 75" is the oddball in the U8 line. All the other sizes have VA panels, the 75" has an IPS ADS Pro panel. Unsure why Hisense did it but they did.
Posted on 9/8/24 at 9:20 pm to Obtuse1
Ya, I have a UST throwing at a 100", probably could squeeze 110" but as they get TVs up to that size I'd probably trash it once my projector runs its course in 5/10 years as they won't be able to keep up.
Posted on 9/8/24 at 9:43 pm to Obtuse1
I just upgraded from 65 OLED to 77" OLED and have been happy with the increased size. 100 would be nuts. Awesome to see a 100" set with a decent panel at such an affordable price.
Posted on 9/9/24 at 8:20 pm to Obtuse1
Off topic question that you guys can probably answer…
If you mount one of these larger TVs very flush to the wall, what device could you plug into the hdmi ports, run cable inside the wall and set in a piece of furniture so that renters could plug into a gaming device?
I don’t want someone trying to access the ports once mounted and risk messing up the install/ tv
Thanks
If you mount one of these larger TVs very flush to the wall, what device could you plug into the hdmi ports, run cable inside the wall and set in a piece of furniture so that renters could plug into a gaming device?
I don’t want someone trying to access the ports once mounted and risk messing up the install/ tv
Thanks
Posted on 9/9/24 at 9:35 pm to tigers win2
You can just use one of these:
Monoprice
That is from Monoprice but everyone has them including Amazon.
They will mount to either a low voltage old work frame/box or you can use a standard high voltage old work box you will just have to break out the cable tensioner to fit the HDMI cable through it.
You can use one behind the TV and one below it or you can just run the cable into a small hole in the wall that is covered by the TV when mounted and just use one of these. That would be my choice since you have fewer connections and possible issues since HDMI can be finicky.
With this approach it is clean but I can't guarantee with a modern 4K high frame rate console you might not have issues with the connections or pigtail not passing the signal at the proper bandwidth. You might be able to research the HDMI wall plugs and see if you can find one people have verified this. You should also verify it if you have a current gen console.
In all my HT areas when I run HDMI through the walls I never use connections, I use one of these:
Monoprice
You can also buy them "anywhere".
With this approach you don't have to worry about the connections or any pigtails not having the proper bandwidth, only that you cable has the proper bandwidth. I only use 48 Gbps cables now even if it is overkill. If you go this "better" approach I would use a old work high voltage box:
What you do have to be worried about is someone yanking on the HDMI cable. If I did this for renters I would run the HDMI cable through the bottom of the old work box (before you put it in the wall obviously) and on the back of the box I would drill several sets of parallel holes above the place you break out the cable tensioner tab then use zip ties through the parallel holes to "lock" the HDMI cable to the box to prevent or discourage pulling it.
For renters I would try to use the HDMI wallplate if possible but check it for bandwidth issues if you have a modern console.
I didn't have time to proof this so if anything doesn't make sense just reply to the post and ask. With the new notification feature I won't forget to check back.
Monoprice
That is from Monoprice but everyone has them including Amazon.
They will mount to either a low voltage old work frame/box or you can use a standard high voltage old work box you will just have to break out the cable tensioner to fit the HDMI cable through it.
You can use one behind the TV and one below it or you can just run the cable into a small hole in the wall that is covered by the TV when mounted and just use one of these. That would be my choice since you have fewer connections and possible issues since HDMI can be finicky.
With this approach it is clean but I can't guarantee with a modern 4K high frame rate console you might not have issues with the connections or pigtail not passing the signal at the proper bandwidth. You might be able to research the HDMI wall plugs and see if you can find one people have verified this. You should also verify it if you have a current gen console.
In all my HT areas when I run HDMI through the walls I never use connections, I use one of these:
Monoprice
You can also buy them "anywhere".
With this approach you don't have to worry about the connections or any pigtails not having the proper bandwidth, only that you cable has the proper bandwidth. I only use 48 Gbps cables now even if it is overkill. If you go this "better" approach I would use a old work high voltage box:
What you do have to be worried about is someone yanking on the HDMI cable. If I did this for renters I would run the HDMI cable through the bottom of the old work box (before you put it in the wall obviously) and on the back of the box I would drill several sets of parallel holes above the place you break out the cable tensioner tab then use zip ties through the parallel holes to "lock" the HDMI cable to the box to prevent or discourage pulling it.
For renters I would try to use the HDMI wallplate if possible but check it for bandwidth issues if you have a modern console.
I didn't have time to proof this so if anything doesn't make sense just reply to the post and ask. With the new notification feature I won't forget to check back.
Posted on 9/9/24 at 9:42 pm to Obtuse1
Thanks for such a detailed response. More straightforward than I thought. Was thinking it would need to be some type of powered box or something that would be plugged into.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Posted on 9/10/24 at 6:23 am to tigers win2
quote:
Was thinking it would need to be some type of powered box or something that would be plugged into.
I should have mentioned technically (by code) the HDMI cable you run through the wall should be CL-2 or CL-3 rated for inwall use.
Posted on 9/10/24 at 10:37 am to Obtuse1
i know its not the latest tech, but i LOVE my samsung frame for this very reason..a thin clear wire (about as thick as an apple lightning cable) that is about 10' long that plugs into a multi-purpose box hidden in a cabinet well away from the TV.
you can plug 3 or 4 HDMIs into it, a USB (for free artwork), ethernet and it just plugs into the wall.
makes me sad to know samsung can shove HDMI and power through that tiny cable when we see how big, fat and clumsy normal plugs and cables are. we haven't improved that form factor in 100 years and i'm guessing we wont in the next 50 either.
you can plug 3 or 4 HDMIs into it, a USB (for free artwork), ethernet and it just plugs into the wall.
makes me sad to know samsung can shove HDMI and power through that tiny cable when we see how big, fat and clumsy normal plugs and cables are. we haven't improved that form factor in 100 years and i'm guessing we wont in the next 50 either.
Posted on 9/10/24 at 11:59 am to CAD703X
quote:
i know its not the latest tech, but i LOVE my samsung frame for this very reason..a thin clear wire (about as thick as an apple lightning cable) that is about 10' long that plugs into a multi-purpose box hidden in a cabinet well away from the TV
This is something Samsung 100% nailed. My only complaint is that they don't integrate this as at least an option on all their TVs. Just put the port in all TVs and make the box an accessory you can buy extra for $225 or something. So many uses in my house alone to clean up cables.
This post was edited on 9/10/24 at 12:53 pm
Posted on 9/10/24 at 12:31 pm to Obtuse1
Honestly, what does one doe with a 100' tv? I can't imagine. Mine is 46 from 2010 and still works fine for me.
Posted on 9/10/24 at 12:46 pm to TigerFanatic99
quote:agree 100%
This is something Damsung 100% nailed. My only complaint is that they don't integrate this as at least an option on all their TVs. Just put the port in all TVs and make the box an accessory you can buy extra for $225 or something. So many uses in my house alone to clean up cables.
i realize sammy has their "$500 value line" crap they sell at costco & best buy but anything over $1k IMO should have this as an option. Its sooo nice and after having it (my second frame tv) it feels like going back in time to have a big arse power cable and HDMI ports tucked up against the wall IN THE frickING DARK less than an inch away from the wall that you have to fumble around with using a phone flashlight or something. who hasn't gotten frustrated trying to plug in an hdmi stick and USB power at some point or need to run **ANOTHER** HDMI cable you hadn't accounted for when you installed the tv and have to take that bitch off the wall and try to force another HDMI cable through the conduit?
Frame: hang the tv on the wall, run that fishing line cable and you're D-O-N-E. who cares what kind of game systems or cable boxes or anything else you need later on? YOU NEVER HAVE TO GO BEHIND THE TV AGAIN.
inputs on the backs of TVs should be a thing of the past. the remote tv box hidden in a spot nearby you can ACTUALLY GET TO is a more civilized world. plug in your game consoles, usb sticks, ethernets, arc or optical, etc. without a single (or fewer) cuss words.
This post was edited on 9/10/24 at 12:53 pm
Posted on 9/10/24 at 1:25 pm to Locoguan0
quote:
Honestly, what does one doe with a 100' tv? I can't imagine. Mine is 46 from 2010 and still works fine for me.
Depends on the room really. We have a 75" and it's pretty nice. We could rearrange the living room and go to 100" but I don't want to spend that much
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