re: For a million bucks, would you stand on the Thank God Ledge for an hour

That's Alex Honnold. As best I can tell he was born without a fear gene.

quote:

---

That's Alex Honnold. As best I can tell he was born without a fear gene.

---

Both pictures the Thank God Ledge IIT have Alex in them. He has spoken about fear (in relation to the climb was one) but I am not sure he understands what fear really is, he conflates his feelings at times when he understands other climbers would feel fear as fear.

The following is by memory if anyone wants to know the granular history of the route trust Google not me.

As I mentioned earlier the Regular Northface Route on Half Dome is one of the legendary big wall climbs. The first ascent was done in the 50's by Royal Robbins and 2 other men. The route was graded 5.9 A1. I don't know how to explain the Yosemite decimal scale to non-climbers but 5.9 is fairly easy. The 5.9 refers to how difficult the free climbing is. Free climbing is when you only place your hands and feet on the rock to move upward. It is normally done roped but if it is done without ropes it is called free soloing which is what Honnold is famous for. Royal Robbins and his climbing mates did not climb all 23 pitches free (a pitch is a section you do before stopping to belay the next climber, it is limited by the rope, normal climbing rope length is 60m but pitches are shorter most of the time because they have to end at a place where you can set up a good belay). They used something called aid climbing. This is where you use small hooks and other small pieces of kit to hook only tiny irregularities in the rock and then attach what are called aiders which are similar to a ladder made of webbing. The you step up on the aiders and place the next piece. It is used for areas that can't be free climbed at the current level of free climbing. The A1 in 5.9 A1 is the aid grade and it is the easiest of the aid grades. So it is 5.9 free climbing and A1 aid.

There is always a push to free climb aid routes especially when they are great and/or legendary routes. In the middle 70s a pair of guys set out to free climb the route and almost made it. The used one bit of aid on the very last pitch which is very smooth. At the time most on the community felt like they deserved the FFA (first free ascent) and they are generally credited with it. This is something that would NEVER happen in the modern era. The slightly divergent route they used was later free climbed and was given the grade of 5.12. Again that is hard to quantify for non-climbers but it is moderately hard. A non-climber or novice would likely not even see the moves on a vertical granite climb and chances are high they couldn't make the move 1 out of 100 times (2 feet off the ground) even after being shown.

This route was Honnold's first solo of a big wall. He did it in 2008. He later soloed it multiple times and got the time done under one hour and 30 minutes. He talked about "fear" getting to him at the same point on the last pitch that the guys in the 70's failed on. The bolt/hanger/carabiner were right there for him to grab onto but he gathered himself and stood up and grabbed the jug (large hold sometimes called a thank God Hold) and finished the route as a true free solo.

Anyone that suffered through this TLDR may get a glimpse as to why I didn't explain every detail in my first "look at me" post. If you didn't get it through context I would have been happy to try to answer. I have made multiple posts about climbing both rock and alpine and do my best to explain terms, gear and the various climbing styles and ethics. tOT seems to have a general interest in climbing and it pops up when Honnold does something and also every year in mid to late May when the Everest summit attempts occur.

I like talking about climbing, and I have some experience in rock, ice, and alpine climbing from bouldering in Camp 4 to climbing 8000m peaks. I will even discuss my multiple failures to summit Mt Driskill as painful as it is. Since I have never stolen my son's wife, had a pet nutria die because of the Advocate, or beat up a guy for throwing peanuts at me in a bar I have to take my self aggrandizing opportunities when they present themselves.

Sounds thrilling. I am 53 and have never climbed but pretty sure I could free solo half dome 5.12 with a week or two of practice and in record time. I will put it on my list.

I never wear protection