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Concrete Driveway Expansion Joint & Crack Repairs
Posted on 8/15/22 at 5:10 pm
Posted on 8/15/22 at 5:10 pm
Over the last week or so, I have been "repairing" my driveway to keep from having to spend 15-20K on new concrete. My driveway is 27 years old, wasn't reinforced from what I could tell, and every section had at least one crack.
I started on the expansion joints, prying out the 1x4 wood using mechanic prybars that would fit in the joint, a pickaxe, and a hammer and chisel at times when needed. That was the most physical part of the job. I cleaned the sides of the joint using a wire wheel so the new sealant would stick to concrete instead of dirt. I added pea gravel into the joints for a base, installed 1.5" backer rod, then filled in the joints with SikaFlex Self Leveling sealant, 1/2" thick.
For the cracks, I used a grinder and concrete cutting wheel to open the up the cracks. Hosed them out with water, let dry. Filled in larger cracks with pea gravel, smaller backer rod, and SikaFlex Concrete Fix which is not self leveling and doesn't sag. Some of my driveway is sloped so I wanted all the cracks to use the same stuff. I sprinkled sand over the crack repairs once I finished each crack.
Thought I'd share some pics.
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The one last thing I have to deal with is this, the worst part. Not sure how to tackle it other than to shave off the raised part using a larger grinder, then fill in the crack like I have already done with the others. It's where all the drainage on the driveway goes. It's been like this since we bought the house some years ago. I'd like to raise that corner up if possible and lower the front that's kicked up. I don't have that equipment. Thoughts?
[/img]
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I started on the expansion joints, prying out the 1x4 wood using mechanic prybars that would fit in the joint, a pickaxe, and a hammer and chisel at times when needed. That was the most physical part of the job. I cleaned the sides of the joint using a wire wheel so the new sealant would stick to concrete instead of dirt. I added pea gravel into the joints for a base, installed 1.5" backer rod, then filled in the joints with SikaFlex Self Leveling sealant, 1/2" thick.
For the cracks, I used a grinder and concrete cutting wheel to open the up the cracks. Hosed them out with water, let dry. Filled in larger cracks with pea gravel, smaller backer rod, and SikaFlex Concrete Fix which is not self leveling and doesn't sag. Some of my driveway is sloped so I wanted all the cracks to use the same stuff. I sprinkled sand over the crack repairs once I finished each crack.
Thought I'd share some pics.
[/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] The one last thing I have to deal with is this, the worst part. Not sure how to tackle it other than to shave off the raised part using a larger grinder, then fill in the crack like I have already done with the others. It's where all the drainage on the driveway goes. It's been like this since we bought the house some years ago. I'd like to raise that corner up if possible and lower the front that's kicked up. I don't have that equipment. Thoughts?
[/img] [/img] 
1
Posted on 8/15/22 at 6:25 pm to Harlan County USA
Not an expert on concrete bit that last piece seems like you need to demo and repour.
Posted on 8/15/22 at 6:38 pm to diat150
I was thinking I might have to do that. I was hoping I could do something myself. Never really have poured concrete for something like that.
Posted on 8/15/22 at 7:40 pm to diat150
quote:
Not an expert on concrete bit that last piece seems like you need to demo and repour.
Depends on if the crack will close up if the corner is underpinned. I bet it will though.
Of course, installing a helical pile with a lifting bracket (or jacking and pouring foundation) then injecting foam or a fill material under the slab might cost as much as demo and repour.
Posted on 8/15/22 at 9:06 pm to junkfunky
I bet that drain has washed out that corner that’s why it’s up opposite corner. I bet a good ole boy with a bobcat or mini backhoe could push that thing back but you need to get soil under it. If it fails it fails the. Re pour that section.
Posted on 8/15/22 at 9:40 pm to Harlan County USA
Taking into consideration all the work you already did, you can do that re-pour no problem. It’s just labor, not real complicated.
Good job, by the way.
Good job, by the way.
Posted on 8/15/22 at 10:37 pm to Cracker
quote:
I bet that drain has washed out that corner that’s why it’s up opposite corner. I bet a good ole boy with a bobcat or mini backhoe could push that thing back but you need to get soil under it. If it fails it fails the. Re pour that section.
Good call. Without fixing the drain piping and connection to the catch basin the same thing is gonna happen.
Posted on 8/16/22 at 11:24 am to junkfunky
Great work. Thanks for the tips.
I'm going to do that on my driveway.
I'm going to do that on my driveway.
Posted on 8/16/22 at 11:25 am to junkfunky
quote:
Good call. Without fixing the drain piping and connection to the catch basin the same thing is gonna happen.
this
#1 you did an awesome job on the repairs. I am a civil and used to do concrete repairs for a living. you did awesome, not perfect but about as best as can be done without sandblasting
#2 you could rent a bobcat with breaker and repour that yourself in a weekend easily or pay someone for prolly close to same price
main thing is, break it up and fix the drain and the washout. Before you break it though, take a grinder and cut blade and clean up the line where the break is on the larger part of your driveway and break off on that line. It will keep the repair from feathering.
after that, drill and epoxy in small rebar into the existing drive way, 12-16" on center along the whole edge.
make sure your form work is level
lay wire and connect to the rebar dowels
dont forget to form up for the drain too.
other then that, just pour and screed off the top with 2x4, float and finish
can rent all the tools for the weekend at a place like rent quip.
you are not going to really be able to fix that big of a crack so unless you pull it close and epoxy, not gonna work and honestly that prolly wont stay for very long either.
Posted on 8/16/22 at 6:01 pm to lsu777
Man, thanks for the advice!
What are your thoughts on eliminating the drain basin and underground pipes and instead install a slide/chute with the new pour. There is a ditch approx. 15' downhill off the corner of the driveway.
Something like this.
[/img]
What are your thoughts on eliminating the drain basin and underground pipes and instead install a slide/chute with the new pour. There is a ditch approx. 15' downhill off the corner of the driveway.
Something like this.
[/img] This post was edited on 8/16/22 at 6:06 pm
Posted on 8/17/22 at 3:30 pm to Harlan County USA
i think doing the piping would be easier, i think that chute would be really hard for you to form up.
Posted on 8/17/22 at 5:57 pm to Harlan County USA
If you go with sloped paving, You’ll need a tight concrete mix to prevent it from losing its shape as you place it. It’s definitely doable, i think you got it. I can tell you’re skilled from your sealant job.
You could always place rip-rap on the outfall of your slab, with filter fabric underneath it. A couple ways to skin a cat.
You could always place rip-rap on the outfall of your slab, with filter fabric underneath it. A couple ways to skin a cat.
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