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Fridge Tripping GFCI Breaker
Posted on 6/10/24 at 5:39 pm
Posted on 6/10/24 at 5:39 pm
My 5-6-year-old Whirlpool fridge keeps tripping the breaker, even after I replaced the breaker. It is on a dedicated circuit. Ran fine up until last night all of a sudden.
However, it works fine when plugged into different outlets/circuits that aren't GFCI protected. What could be causing this issue with the original outlet/circuit, and how can I troubleshoot it?
However, it works fine when plugged into different outlets/circuits that aren't GFCI protected. What could be causing this issue with the original outlet/circuit, and how can I troubleshoot it?
This post was edited on 6/10/24 at 10:00 pm
8
Posted on 6/10/24 at 5:44 pm to Lazy But Talented
Does it trip as soon as you plug it into the GFCI outlet? Or, does it take a bit like it is tripping when the compressor kicks on?
Posted on 6/10/24 at 5:54 pm to Lazy But Talented
Is it tripping the breaker or GFCI or both? I'm kind of confused. You replaced the GFCI?
Posted on 6/10/24 at 5:59 pm to LegendInMyMind
Just tested it again. The fridge stayed on for about 10 minutes then shut off. Compressor kicked on and ran for a bit but I believe it was running when it went out. Fridge beeped twice.
Breaker is tripped.
ETA: tested again. Didn’t hear it kick on. tripped breaker in less than 3 minutes this time.
Breaker is tripped.
ETA: tested again. Didn’t hear it kick on. tripped breaker in less than 3 minutes this time.
This post was edited on 6/10/24 at 6:06 pm
Posted on 6/10/24 at 6:01 pm to LEASTBAY
quote:
Is it tripping the breaker or GFCI or both? I'm kind of confused. You replaced the GFCI?
It’s a GFCI protected outlet. I believe this that is the right terminology.
Posted on 6/10/24 at 6:09 pm to Lazy But Talented
I’ll attempt to move it to another GFCI protected outlet and see what happens.
ETA: Ok it tripped that one as well.
ETA: Ok it tripped that one as well.
This post was edited on 6/10/24 at 6:17 pm
Posted on 6/10/24 at 6:18 pm to Lazy But Talented
If it is tripping the breaker, no need to mention GFCI.
Weird a fridge would be on a GFCI circuit, makes me think you don’t have a dedicated fridge circuit or it is a garage fridge.
My fists guess was AFCI breaker getting old but you tackled that.
If circuit is not dedicated, then you could be running too many things. Breakers and fuses aren’t instant. It would take several minutes to trip if only slightly overloaded.
I doubt the fridge has problems if it works on other circuits.
Peak current is when starting but breaker mostly ignores this. Highest sustained current is defrost cycle.
If fridge if on a cafci breaker, it may have a contractor going out or something and still work on afci breaker.
Weird a fridge would be on a GFCI circuit, makes me think you don’t have a dedicated fridge circuit or it is a garage fridge.
My fists guess was AFCI breaker getting old but you tackled that.
If circuit is not dedicated, then you could be running too many things. Breakers and fuses aren’t instant. It would take several minutes to trip if only slightly overloaded.
I doubt the fridge has problems if it works on other circuits.
Peak current is when starting but breaker mostly ignores this. Highest sustained current is defrost cycle.
If fridge if on a cafci breaker, it may have a contractor going out or something and still work on afci breaker.
This post was edited on 6/10/24 at 6:36 pm
Posted on 6/10/24 at 6:37 pm to Dallaswho
Maybe I’m mixing up terminologies.
The outlet has a label that says “GFCI protected outlet”
But it’s not like the outlets in the bathrooms that have a reset & test button on the actual outlet itself.
It is on its own dedicated circuit. I replaced the breaker with a new one today and the issue persists.
Fridge ran fine on same outlet/circuit for the last 4 years.
If I plug it into an outlet that is not a GFCI protected outlet, it seems to run fine without tripping the breaker for that circuit.
The outlet has a label that says “GFCI protected outlet”
But it’s not like the outlets in the bathrooms that have a reset & test button on the actual outlet itself.
It is on its own dedicated circuit. I replaced the breaker with a new one today and the issue persists.
Fridge ran fine on same outlet/circuit for the last 4 years.
If I plug it into an outlet that is not a GFCI protected outlet, it seems to run fine without tripping the breaker for that circuit.
Posted on 6/10/24 at 6:41 pm to Lazy But Talented
Is the breaker GFCI? Lots of weirdness going on. Is the breaker cafci?
If it is dedicated and protected with no buttons, then I’m guessing the breaker is gfi. Please confirm.
If the breaker is not gfi, then your outlet is either mislabeled or not dedicated.
If it is dedicated and protected with no buttons, then I’m guessing the breaker is gfi. Please confirm.
If the breaker is not gfi, then your outlet is either mislabeled or not dedicated.
Posted on 6/10/24 at 6:50 pm to Dallaswho
Posted on 6/10/24 at 7:01 pm to Lazy But Talented
Now we are clear.
To the best of my knowledge, a dedicated fridge circuit would not need to be gfci as long as the breaker is at least afci(most new ones are) AND you still have two 20a GFCI branch circuits in the kitchen for small appliances.
That being said, it is odd. Fridges should work fine on GFI circuits. My garage fridge is happy on one.
My best advice is to make damn sure the circuit is dedicated by tripping breaker and checking other outlets, then swap breaker for regular one. Whether to keep the fridge after that, depends on your risk tolerance.
To the best of my knowledge, a dedicated fridge circuit would not need to be gfci as long as the breaker is at least afci(most new ones are) AND you still have two 20a GFCI branch circuits in the kitchen for small appliances.
That being said, it is odd. Fridges should work fine on GFI circuits. My garage fridge is happy on one.
My best advice is to make damn sure the circuit is dedicated by tripping breaker and checking other outlets, then swap breaker for regular one. Whether to keep the fridge after that, depends on your risk tolerance.
This post was edited on 6/10/24 at 7:05 pm
Posted on 6/10/24 at 7:03 pm to Dallaswho
It has worked fine in this house for 4 years.
Ironically I have the same model fridge in my garage on the same circuit as a deep freezer.
Ironically I have the same model fridge in my garage on the same circuit as a deep freezer.
Posted on 6/10/24 at 7:08 pm to Lazy But Talented
quote:
Ironically I have the same model fridge in my garage on the same circuit as a deep freezer.
Now that might actually be a bad idea but only if the deep freeze has automatic defrost and you get really really unlucky.
Posted on 6/10/24 at 8:11 pm to Lazy But Talented
Hate being stumped on electrical stuff. I’m assuming your house is newer than 2005 or so? Or maybe recently brought up to code?
These newer AFCIs can detect all kinds of small stuff. May check wires in outlet are nice and tight in addition to circuit being dedicated and trying non GFI breaker.
These newer AFCIs can detect all kinds of small stuff. May check wires in outlet are nice and tight in addition to circuit being dedicated and trying non GFI breaker.
This post was edited on 6/10/24 at 8:13 pm
Posted on 6/10/24 at 8:21 pm to Lazy But Talented
quote:
The breaker is GFCI
Eaton - CHFN120DF
It's an Arc Fault and a Ground Fault breaker. Does the breaker have a blinking light when it trips? If yes that's a trouble code. How many times does it blink.
Table 3. Trip codes
AF/GF breakers are equipped with a red diagnostic LED that blinks
a repeating pattern, from 1 to 6 blinks, indicating the cause of trip.
This pattern is the “trip code”. The LED will blink the trip code for
30 iterations after being turned back on.
Trip
code Description
No code
recorded Mechanical disconnect (thermal, short circuit, manual disconnect)
No trip code is recorded for mechanical actions. These include:
• Loss of power from the utility or upstream breaker
• Manually switching the breaker OFF
• Pressing the TEST button
• Short circuit
• Thermal overload trip caused by mechanical part of breaker (This is rare.
The electronics should trip on thermal overload before the mechanical
side in most instances.)
1. Series arc
A low-current arc has been detected within one of the current pathways.
Low-current arcs are typically series arcs, and are typically found in worn
or degraded appliance and extension cords, poor connections in appliances or fixtures, or in contacts within equipment.
2 Parallel arc
A high-current arc has been detected between two conductors. Look for
damaged insulation usually found in installed wiring where the wire has
been compromised by a nail or screw, tight staple, or damaged insulation.
3 Overload
The circuit is drawing more current than the breaker is rated for.
Remove some load from the circuit.
4 Overvoltage
The breaker will trip if it experiences voltage of 160 V rms or greater. The
breaker can be reset and the TEST button can be pushed to verify that
the breaker is working properly. Most likely caused by a loose or floating
neutral, either in the service entrance or at the transformer.
5 Ground fault / grounded neutral
Current has found an alternate path to ground, or the neutral and ground
are in contact downstream of the breaker; this could cause harm to people
or property.
6 Self test failure
The breaker continually tests the internal electronics and software to
ensure that the arc fault and ground fault detection technology is working
properly. If the self-diagnostics fail, the breaker will trip. The built-in
self-test features will not allow the AF/GF breaker to re-latch if it detects
a malfunction in the AF/GF detection circuit. Replace the breaker.
Posted on 6/10/24 at 8:25 pm to Lazy But Talented
Ok,
First off. A gfci (ground fault circuit interceptor) senses current going to ground. This is usually about 3 mA for about 15mS. Since most things now a days are made in China, about 1 in 3 gfci receptacles are bad.
Circuit breakers are heat activated. This is why they don’t trip during a motor start up. Which can be 150% of full load amps rating. Current and time are what trips a breaker.
You say that the circuit is dedicated, are you sure. Have you checked current draw on the wire at circuit breaker?
Have you actually seen what current your fridge is drawing? And for how long.
Do you know a good electrician that has a circuit tester. Or you can buy one at Home Depot and test yourself. You can test voltage drop. Test gfci. Ground.
Hope this helps
First off. A gfci (ground fault circuit interceptor) senses current going to ground. This is usually about 3 mA for about 15mS. Since most things now a days are made in China, about 1 in 3 gfci receptacles are bad.
Circuit breakers are heat activated. This is why they don’t trip during a motor start up. Which can be 150% of full load amps rating. Current and time are what trips a breaker.
You say that the circuit is dedicated, are you sure. Have you checked current draw on the wire at circuit breaker?
Have you actually seen what current your fridge is drawing? And for how long.
Do you know a good electrician that has a circuit tester. Or you can buy one at Home Depot and test yourself. You can test voltage drop. Test gfci. Ground.
Hope this helps
Posted on 6/10/24 at 9:05 pm to Dallaswho
quote:
I’m assuming your house is newer than 2005 or so?
2020 build.
I removed the back cover and vacuumed all the dust just in case. I will take a look at the outlet tomorrow.
Posted on 6/10/24 at 9:06 pm to weadjust
quote:
5 Ground fault / grounded neutral
Current has found an alternate path to ground, or the neutral and ground
are in contact downstream of the breaker; this could cause harm to people
or property.
It was giving 5 blinks.
Posted on 6/10/24 at 9:08 pm to chrome1007
quote:
You say that the circuit is dedicated, are you sure. Have you checked current draw on the wire at circuit breaker?
As certain as I can be without actually checking the draw.
quote:
Do you know a good electrician that has a circuit tester. Or you can buy one at Home Depot and test yourself. You can test voltage drop. Test gfci. Ground.
Yeah I think I'll reach out to an electrician if I can't seem to figure it out tomorrow. Thanks for the info and recs.
This post was edited on 6/10/24 at 9:09 pm
Posted on 6/10/24 at 9:12 pm to Lazy But Talented
Ya do the diagnostic light.
Also make sure the neutral wire from that correct circuit is the one connnected to the breaker.
Also make sure the neutral wire from that correct circuit is the one connnected to the breaker.
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