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Message
Replacing cedar board siding with Hardie Board
Posted on 6/12/22 at 9:59 pm
Posted on 6/12/22 at 9:59 pm
Has anyone done this??
6
Posted on 6/12/22 at 10:17 pm to 9rocket
We’ve had no problems, just tired of the upkeep - replacing rotten boards and painting. I’m not certain it would make sense cost-wise; that’s why I’m asking here before I start wasting time getting estimates
Posted on 6/13/22 at 7:16 am to WinnaSez
How long are you staying at this house?
My old house was redwood siding. New house is hardie and brick. Was in the same boat as you and if we were going to stay in the old house long term, I was going to replace the wood siding.
While it’s beautiful you are correct, constant upkeep. Wood constantly shrinking and expanding, cracking, constantly caulking and painting. Also dealing with rotten boards and replacing. Also also those old wooden siding houses weren’t flashed as well weren’t as water tight and would allow water between joints causing problems with the walls and beams (house was off the ground).
If you do replace, be prepared for some structural work as well that you don’t see.
My old house was redwood siding. New house is hardie and brick. Was in the same boat as you and if we were going to stay in the old house long term, I was going to replace the wood siding.
While it’s beautiful you are correct, constant upkeep. Wood constantly shrinking and expanding, cracking, constantly caulking and painting. Also dealing with rotten boards and replacing. Also also those old wooden siding houses weren’t flashed as well weren’t as water tight and would allow water between joints causing problems with the walls and beams (house was off the ground).
If you do replace, be prepared for some structural work as well that you don’t see.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 7:55 am to WinnaSez
Did this a year ago, but not on a large scale. We are in a 50 year old house, had a combination of brick, with cedar on Gables and alcove. Had some rot around windows and was tired of the outdated look(cedar shingles). I do not regret the uograde.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 8:35 am to WinnaSez
I have - Hardie board is a great product.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 9:11 am to 9rocket
quote:
Sure. But why?
Because he'll never have to replace hardie board unless something catastrophic happens.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 9:15 am to WinnaSez
we replaced cedar with Hardie during a remodel and i'm incredibly happy with it. it's only been a few years but not worrying about rot and fading has been nice.
we also wanted to keep the historic look instead of brick and this served the purpose well.
you can bitch about the colors or whatever. i'm not in love with the paint we chose after 2 years. i'm pretty confident we'll be painting it something different in a few years.
Old Cedar
New Hardie
we also wanted to keep the historic look instead of brick and this served the purpose well.
you can bitch about the colors or whatever. i'm not in love with the paint we chose after 2 years. i'm pretty confident we'll be painting it something different in a few years.
Old Cedar
New Hardie
This post was edited on 6/13/22 at 9:29 am
Posted on 6/13/22 at 11:25 am to TDsngumbo
I get all that, just asking his reason for the question.
I am a big fan of hardie, ever since they came out with it. Have installed miles of it, including our own house which was covered in vinyl siding crap before.
I am a big fan of hardie, ever since they came out with it. Have installed miles of it, including our own house which was covered in vinyl siding crap before.
This post was edited on 6/13/22 at 11:30 am
Posted on 6/13/22 at 11:32 am to 3nOut
Thanks for the input, guys. I’m going to call around and get some estimates. I’m not sure how long we’ll stay here, maybe forever, but empty nesting has made me start thinking of downsizing. If we do decide to move maybe the hardie board will help with resale, who knows???
Posted on 6/13/22 at 12:44 pm to WinnaSez
quote:
I’m not sure how long we’ll stay here, maybe forever, but empty nesting has made me start thinking of downsizing. If we do decide to move maybe the hardie board will help with resale, who knows
It will do nothing but help with resale.
We’re 6 years out from empty nesting. We did all the insides too but specifically did the hardie with the idea of reselling in mind. I don’t want to move but I want it to be sellable. We don’t want to downsize to such a degree my kids don’t feel comfortable coming back home (my parents did this) but we didn’t want to drop $150k to design a house for just 8 more years with the kids either. So we did most of our remodel with both in mind.
Wood could look good now but it probably won’t in 10 years. That Hardie is going to look the same in 10 years.
This post was edited on 6/13/22 at 12:45 pm
Posted on 6/13/22 at 12:53 pm to WinnaSez
I've done it with both hardie and shiplap (nickle gap). Hardie in exposed areas and shiplap on a back wall of a porch. The shiplap looks great but you will still have the upkeep issues you currently are experiencing. I've also put up some nickle gap in a garage that I thought looked nice.
The hardie is probably your best option. Just know if you plan on doing it yourself you will need a hardie cutting blade and a coil nailer with ring shank nails.
The hardie is probably your best option. Just know if you plan on doing it yourself you will need a hardie cutting blade and a coil nailer with ring shank nails.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 2:56 pm to WinnaSez
The Hardie is a piece of shite, as far as being sealed from the weather and insects.
You cannot caulk between the boards, and can only caulk the vertical butt joints, as per warranty.
So....... Bugs, and weather can crawl right on in your house. Not counting the exterior wrap. On most Hardie installs, just tap or bang on the bottom edge.
Rattle, rattle, rattle. The only fasteners, are on the top, concealed edge, so the bottom edge, jus floats in the wind.........
I think it sucks.
You cannot caulk between the boards, and can only caulk the vertical butt joints, as per warranty.
So....... Bugs, and weather can crawl right on in your house. Not counting the exterior wrap. On most Hardie installs, just tap or bang on the bottom edge.
Rattle, rattle, rattle. The only fasteners, are on the top, concealed edge, so the bottom edge, jus floats in the wind.........
I think it sucks.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 3:02 pm to WinnaSez
Our wood was shot. Our home was built in 84. Cheap plywood of the day was used. Hardy made sense. And really not MUCH more unless we were going with the same cheap shite.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 3:30 pm to LSU alum wannabe
100 year old house, had rot in certain places on the wood planks that I replaced with Hardie. The whole skirting of the front porch was shot so I replaced with Hardie there as well. Trying to find a 1x20x12 wasn't worth my time and likely pocketbook compared to the Hardie Board.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 3:52 pm to Drop4Loss
If your hardie boards rattle when you tap them, you have a terrible install. AND, if you’re that worried about it, hardie recommends face nailing in locations where required by code due to excessive wind (or I guess if you just want to) In this instance you would face nail only through two layers.
Hardie absolutely does not void the warranty if you caulk the bottom seam. Before I typed this I went back and read the specs that I downloaded when I built my house (I installed the hardie and flashed the shite out of every location I could). The only locations they specifically call to not caulk is the bottom row where trapped water would have to be flashed out (so above any windows, penetrations, or the bottom most run). But this should be a general no brainer. This is directly from the 2018 hz10 hardie plank lap siding spec(the latest spec offered on the James hardie website).
The only thing official I can find from hardie on caulking the horizontal joints is a 2014 bulletin about flashing that says it’s not recommended and could cause moisture buildup if you have an issue above. Nothing about warranty the being voided and again, no verbiage in the 2018 spec.
Hardie absolutely does not void the warranty if you caulk the bottom seam. Before I typed this I went back and read the specs that I downloaded when I built my house (I installed the hardie and flashed the shite out of every location I could). The only locations they specifically call to not caulk is the bottom row where trapped water would have to be flashed out (so above any windows, penetrations, or the bottom most run). But this should be a general no brainer. This is directly from the 2018 hz10 hardie plank lap siding spec(the latest spec offered on the James hardie website).
The only thing official I can find from hardie on caulking the horizontal joints is a 2014 bulletin about flashing that says it’s not recommended and could cause moisture buildup if you have an issue above. Nothing about warranty the being voided and again, no verbiage in the 2018 spec.
This post was edited on 6/13/22 at 3:57 pm
Posted on 6/13/22 at 7:55 pm to poochie
I agree with poochie, you had a crap installation if that was happening. I had a crap installation 2 houses ago - there is no way the company who did it (previous owner, not us) had done it before. All kinds of gaps on the sides, and seeing light come through along the diagonal of the big gable side. Didn't do proper flashing anywhere. So glad we move before really having to deal with it. In the house before that, it was newly built with hardy and everything was tight, no issues at all. You just have to find people who know how to install it properly.
Posted on 6/13/22 at 11:39 pm to HangingWithMrCooper
100 year old house, had rot in certain places on the wood planks that I replaced with Hardie. The whole skirting of the front porch was shot so I replaced with Hardie there as well.
So you replaced Hardie board in certain spots as opposed to the whole house? A friend recommended this as an option - I only have rot problems in certain places - but it didn’t sound feasible to me. Please keep in mind my carpentry skills on a scale from 1-10 are zero.
So you replaced Hardie board in certain spots as opposed to the whole house? A friend recommended this as an option - I only have rot problems in certain places - but it didn’t sound feasible to me. Please keep in mind my carpentry skills on a scale from 1-10 are zero.
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