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Started By
Message
Need help wiring switch panel for boat
Posted on 2/7/16 at 1:17 pm
Posted on 2/7/16 at 1:17 pm
I am usually pretty handy with this shite, but I havent slept in a week and need help.
How do I power this panel and wire the switches? I assume a direct from battery will be used then jumpers for each switch? Does the 12volt outlet have constant power or does it need a switch between this panel and battery?
This will be used to run general accessories such as nav lights, bilge, FF, etc
How do I power this panel and wire the switches? I assume a direct from battery will be used then jumpers for each switch? Does the 12volt outlet have constant power or does it need a switch between this panel and battery?
This will be used to run general accessories such as nav lights, bilge, FF, etc


This post was edited on 2/7/16 at 1:24 pm
Posted on 2/7/16 at 3:06 pm to Polar Pop
Whoever made that should have put a distribution panel on there I think.
Posted on 2/7/16 at 3:31 pm to Polar Pop
Posted on 2/7/16 at 3:35 pm to hogdaddy
I use that same fuse block, makes it easier.
Posted on 2/7/16 at 3:44 pm to LSUdude3756
shouldnt the negative ground go back to the batteries negative terminal?
Posted on 2/7/16 at 3:53 pm to mack the knife
The Sub panel has a Negative terminal strip, where you can terminate each negative to.
When you power the sub panel, you terminate both the Positive and negative.
When you power the sub panel, you terminate both the Positive and negative.
This post was edited on 2/7/16 at 3:58 pm
Posted on 2/7/16 at 4:49 pm to hogdaddy
Do your switches have 3 terminals? Do they light up? Might make things a little trickier
Posted on 2/7/16 at 5:19 pm to Polar Pop
If I was at the point you are now, I'd add another ground terminal bar and run 2 wire to each device.
PS- I wouldn't have let them install that catchall/cup holder either.
PS- I wouldn't have let them install that catchall/cup holder either.
Posted on 2/7/16 at 5:21 pm to QuietTiger
What is wrong with the cupholder?
This is my brothers rig Im just trying to help him get it wired.
With a ground terminal bar and 2 wires to each switch, would you just run an inline fuse on each positive
This is my brothers rig Im just trying to help him get it wired.
With a ground terminal bar and 2 wires to each switch, would you just run an inline fuse on each positive
Posted on 2/7/16 at 5:28 pm to Polar Pop
No, I figured you'd listen to others. I'm no boat mechanic and have only help fix crap.
You'll need a 2 wire feed from the battery to a fuse bar which usually has a ground bar of sorts too. You'll need to run power to all switched or unswitched devices. This is where I differ from what I have seen. They tap off a ground from any close grounded wire, I've located and fixed too many like that.
The cup holder will make you want to throw your tools in the water after trying to work around it while cramped and on you back with no light.(unless it's removable)
You'll need a 2 wire feed from the battery to a fuse bar which usually has a ground bar of sorts too. You'll need to run power to all switched or unswitched devices. This is where I differ from what I have seen. They tap off a ground from any close grounded wire, I've located and fixed too many like that.
The cup holder will make you want to throw your tools in the water after trying to work around it while cramped and on you back with no light.(unless it's removable)
Posted on 2/7/16 at 6:39 pm to QuietTiger
Fused hot from battery to 12v outlet daisy chain hot to switched positive input.
Outlet will need a ground as well.
Do the switches light up? Do they use a ground as well.
Fuse your supply positive on your initial run. No need to fuse each one.
Outlet will need a ground as well.
Do the switches light up? Do they use a ground as well.
Fuse your supply positive on your initial run. No need to fuse each one.
This post was edited on 2/7/16 at 6:57 pm
Posted on 2/8/16 at 7:44 am to Chris4x4gill2
Agree with Chris4x4 no need for a bunch of fuses. One fuse off of battery on hot side and jump that hot to all the switches ending at the cig plug. Ground them all common nack to the battery. Less wires. Less trouble shooting in the future and your still protecting everything. Easier now the easier it will be later.
Posted on 2/8/16 at 7:53 am to King of the Sabine
Polar...nice panel by the way...i take it that wasn't done local
Posted on 2/8/16 at 8:43 am to King of the Sabine

Ok so run a wire from battery to switch panel, fuse it, jump that across each switch to the cig lighter?
Then explain the grounding setup a little more in detail please
Posted on 2/8/16 at 8:44 am to Polar Pop
Hope that's not for a marsh boat.
Those switches probably aren't going to last very long.
Those switches probably aren't going to last very long.
Posted on 2/8/16 at 8:45 am to CP3
No this is for a 1648 Tracker Grizzly used in Northwest Arkansas (Beaver Lake, White River, etc.)
Posted on 2/8/16 at 9:55 am to Polar Pop
Yea wire all the grounds common back to the battery. That looks like the work of WJR customs by Joe Rousewald or Cache Swamp Marine by Hunter Gipson both outta Arkansas and do great work
Posted on 2/8/16 at 10:01 am to Polar Pop
quote:
Ok so run a wire from battery to switch panel, fuse it, jump that across each switch to the cig lighter? Then explain the grounding setup a little more in detail please
run a positive wire with a fuse from the battery to the cig lighter. At the terminal that attaches to the back of the cig lighter, make a pigtail with an additional wire coming out. This will also be a fused positive (because it is a continuation of the original wire - don't need to add another fuse). Connect that wire from the pigtail to the closest switch at (+) input. Repeat the pigtail just like you did at the back of the cig lighter and jump to the next switches (+) input. Repeat for all switches.
For Negative - I am assuming all of the switches are lighted 2 way switches and have three terminals on the back (+) Input, (+) Out, and Negative. Its hard to tell in the photo looking from my phone.
You repeat what you did for the positive, except you may have a better (closer ) ground that running it all the way back to the battery. If you are close to the helm, there should be a Ground distribution bar under the helm. You can just run your main ground wire to that bus rather than back to the battery.
It doesn't need anything complicated. Just use one fuse on the main positive coming in, split it over to the switches one by one and do the same with the ground.
This post was edited on 2/8/16 at 10:02 am
Posted on 2/8/16 at 10:05 am to Chris4x4gill2
Just make sure you size your fuse and wire gauge correctly, since it will be taking the load of ALL the devices.
If it were me I would run a heavier gauge wire to a fuse block, and tail off from there to each circuit individually.
If it were me I would run a heavier gauge wire to a fuse block, and tail off from there to each circuit individually.
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