I'm really feeling the need for a GMT watch. Some of the ones I'm looking at in no particular order: Rolex Explorer II, GMT Master II, Planet Ocean GMT, IWC Ingeniiur Dual TIme. Explorer II has been the leader because reasons, but lately the IWC has been speaking to me. GMT Master II is unavailable at the AD and overpriced on the gray marker. I like the Planet Ocean but the only version that has both a dive bezel and 24 hour GMT markers only comes on a rubber strap.

Amybody got any thoughts or other suggestions?

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Posted by Ingeniero

Baton Rouge

Member since Dec 2013

18354 posts

Posted on 5/17/24 at 11:43 am to Jim Rockford

I think Tudor has fixed the issues with their GMT if you like how it looks. It's one of my favorites.

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Posted by Jor Jor The Dinosaur

Chicago, IL

Member since Nov 2014

6614 posts

Posted on 5/17/24 at 12:01 pm to Jim Rockford

quote:
I like the Planet Ocean but the only version that has both a dive bezel and 24 hour GMT markers only comes on a rubber strap.

You specifically want a 60-min bezel and bracelet?

Omega has a PO GMT on a bracelet, but it has the 24-hour bezel.

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Posted by BigPapiDoesItAgain

Amérique du Nord

Member since Nov 2009

2813 posts

Posted on 5/17/24 at 12:18 pm to Jim Rockford

quote:
Amybody got any thoughts or other suggestions?

I have a thing for dual time zone watches and GMT watches and have several - mostly GMT Master II's of recent vintage, but a few others as well including IWC and the Nomos you see above.

I would give the Longines Spirit Zulu time a look. I recently have handled the 39 mm green bezel, anthracite dial version and was very empressed. I'm probably hypercritical of bracelets, but this is a surprisingly good one - 21 mm at the lugs, which I normally don't like, but tapers down to 16 so it has a nice profile. Also has pin adjusted links, which I definitely prefer screws, but I'd be willing to look past.

Another looker is Grand Seiko SBGM221, if you are ok with moving out of Swill brands. Don't own it, but have seen it in person and it is an impressive watch for the money - 4600 USD RRP. They also have a sport automatic GMT w/ SS bezel that gives off an Expl II vibe, but has the crown at 4 o'clock which is a deal breaker for me.

I really, really like the Tudor BB pro, but it's a little thick for me personally, otherwise great watch and one I've been able to check out pretty extensively. The new BB58 GMT with the gilt dial and "coke" bezel is a full 1.5 mm thinner, I believe, and though I have yet to see it in person, I feel it is almost sure to be a winner.

These are just a few that pop up off the top of my head without talking about price range

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Posted by Obtuse1

Westside Bodymore Yo

Member since Sep 2016

25895 posts

Posted on 5/17/24 at 12:40 pm to Jim Rockford

quote:
I'm really feeling the need for a GMT watch. Some of the ones I'm looking at in no particular order: Rolex Explorer II, GMT Master II, Planet Ocean GMT, IWC Ingeniiur Dual TIme. Explorer II has been the leader because reasons, but lately the IWC has been speaking to me. GMT Master II is unavailable at the AD and overpriced on the gray marker. I like the Planet Ocean but the only version that has both a dive bezel and 24 hour GMT markers only comes on a rubber strap.

Amybody got any thoughts or other suggestions?

I like a true traveller GMT which limits the options, my favorites are the GMT Master II and the PO GMT. I think you can still get a PO GMT on bracelet but only the black and white colorway and I have never been a fan. One of my favorite GMTs is the Planet Ocean Good Planet, I used to have a picture on Imgur but it seems to have been purged so a stock picture

Do not sleep on the rubber strap for the POs, I avoided them for a long time but put one on one of my 42mm POs and it wears totally differently in a good way. But I think the only GMTs other than the black and white one in their catalog now are the ceramic ones and they are 45.5mm ones and are massive.

The Tudor is another good options. The issues seem to be fixed and I would buy one now. I did a long post on WUS years ago where I thought I had identified where the issue with the date was... still think I am right. They had the option of using the Rolex date mechanism (the most robuts in all of watchdom) or the tried and true one used on practically ever Swiss watch made for longer than I have been alive but they chose to create a new mechanism... why?

There have been a lot of new traveller GMTs recently and I haven't kept up completely. Mido and Longines have them with the new version of the Powermatic 80 but they don't have a quick set date. Miyota and Seiko both have low cost traveller movements now but I honestly don't know their full specs and limitations.

I like the Mido Oceanstar (even without a quickset date) given the price point. I really like this one but I think it was a SE so it may not be available now

It is a shame the GMT Master II is basically unobtanium since is it the quintessential GMT. That said being honest despite travelling a lot I don't find a GMT to be that useful for me, I travel with 12 hour watches most of the time because that's what I have the most of. If you aren't sure it is a complication worth the cost I might try one of the Miyota 9075 watches to see if you really like it. Admittedly it takes a lot of ques from a certain other GMT but for $1k I like the Jack Mason Stratotimer. It is also available on the 3 link bracelet and it always draws me in. I don't know a lot about the 9075 so you would need to do some research to determine if it works for you.