- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Did some Ethernet wiring...
Posted on 4/30/24 at 2:54 pm
Posted on 4/30/24 at 2:54 pm
Holy God. It doesn't sound like as much work as it ends up being. I have a new server closet so I installed a 6 port wallplate and fed 600' of shielded cat6 down and around and around and into the crawl space. Becuase I had to push it through with a metal rod, i ended up with piles of cable all over the floor and had to come up and down from the crawlspace 100,000x to adjust kinks and get it all through.
protip: write the number of the cable using a sharpie about 15x at each end so you don't get confused later.
one of the 6 cables fed under the house and comes out by the front door for the reolink doorbell.
the second line is cat8 all the way to my office which then feeds into a 6 port switch and fuels my work PC, 2 arcade cabinets, a virtual pinball machine and raspberry pi.
took another line and fed it through a hole I made in the masonry into the garage and up into the side attic on the second floor. My son came over and we had a 16' ladder to use to 'pin' the cable to a stud in the corner of the garage all the way up and then into the ceiling. I can't stand cable staples that fall out of drywall after a year.
we then cut a hole in the cabinet in the upstairs room (which had an outlet inside of it) that opens into the 'side' attic and connected a 5 port PoE switch. there was actually an outlet in the attic space but it gets so hot in there i'd rather not have anything in there except the actual ethernet cables.
then ran one line out of that switch to the farthest corner of the attic then out behind the TV and connected it to a 6 port switch which is feeding the TV, xbox, nintendo and sonos.
2 of the remaining 3 ports on the PoE switch will feed outside of the house through a small opening we found in tht attic and we'll run the cable along the eaves to 2 cameras.
the 3rd line will run along the entire back of the house to the far corner and into the den behind the TV. from there we will put in another small PoE switch to power 2 cameras on the far side of the house.
*whew*
oh and these all feed into the 24 port HP managed swich i've had forever and the reolink NVR also connects to the switch.
brought a tear to my eye when i plugged the camera in upstairs to test it and it showed up in the app.
tl;dr it seems alot 'easier' to pull cable than it actually ends up being. we actually had to sit around and scratch our asses to think through how we could mix regular and PoE cables so we could hardwire all the stuff upstairs and still power all the cameras on the exterior of the house.
protip: write the number of the cable using a sharpie about 15x at each end so you don't get confused later.
one of the 6 cables fed under the house and comes out by the front door for the reolink doorbell.
the second line is cat8 all the way to my office which then feeds into a 6 port switch and fuels my work PC, 2 arcade cabinets, a virtual pinball machine and raspberry pi.
took another line and fed it through a hole I made in the masonry into the garage and up into the side attic on the second floor. My son came over and we had a 16' ladder to use to 'pin' the cable to a stud in the corner of the garage all the way up and then into the ceiling. I can't stand cable staples that fall out of drywall after a year.
we then cut a hole in the cabinet in the upstairs room (which had an outlet inside of it) that opens into the 'side' attic and connected a 5 port PoE switch. there was actually an outlet in the attic space but it gets so hot in there i'd rather not have anything in there except the actual ethernet cables.
then ran one line out of that switch to the farthest corner of the attic then out behind the TV and connected it to a 6 port switch which is feeding the TV, xbox, nintendo and sonos.
2 of the remaining 3 ports on the PoE switch will feed outside of the house through a small opening we found in tht attic and we'll run the cable along the eaves to 2 cameras.
the 3rd line will run along the entire back of the house to the far corner and into the den behind the TV. from there we will put in another small PoE switch to power 2 cameras on the far side of the house.
*whew*
oh and these all feed into the 24 port HP managed swich i've had forever and the reolink NVR also connects to the switch.
brought a tear to my eye when i plugged the camera in upstairs to test it and it showed up in the app.
tl;dr it seems alot 'easier' to pull cable than it actually ends up being. we actually had to sit around and scratch our asses to think through how we could mix regular and PoE cables so we could hardwire all the stuff upstairs and still power all the cameras on the exterior of the house.
5
Posted on 4/30/24 at 3:00 pm to CAD703X
shielded cat6? Cat 8? Do you just buy stuff that sounds cool?
Posted on 4/30/24 at 3:21 pm to notsince98
quote:
shielded cat6?
500 feet of this came with the reolink system i bought and its the big thick ugly gray ethernet cables designed to live on exterior walls and go through crawl spaces where all kinds of electrical cables and other shite are also living that could interfere with the signal so why wouldn't i use it?
quote:
Cat 8? Do you just buy stuff that sounds cool?
i mean, thats what amazon sells now and its the same price as cat 5e so why would i NOT buy it? i think i bought a 6 pack of 25' cat8 for maybe $12.
maybe its overkill to run cat8 all the way from the switch to my office PC but i already had the cable so i just kept it consistent.
eta ya'll will bitch about anything on here.
This post was edited on 4/30/24 at 3:26 pm
Posted on 4/30/24 at 3:49 pm to CAD703X
quote:
where all kinds of electrical cables and other shite are also living that could interfere with the signal so why wouldn't i use it?
If you run the cable properly interence isn't an issue.
quote:
Cat 8
CAD, the king of overkill.
Posted on 4/30/24 at 3:58 pm to VABuckeye
quote:
If you run the cable properly interence isn't an issue.
tell me you've never pulled cable through a crawl space without telling me you've never pulled cable through a crawl space.
quote:cat8 cables are literally $2.99 on amazon and if you type in 'cat6' or 'cat7' the first hitts are cat8
CAD, the king of overkill.
but if it makes you feel better to laugh...
This post was edited on 4/30/24 at 4:01 pm
Posted on 4/30/24 at 4:50 pm to CAD703X
You realize that I owned a company that pulled copper and fiber for 23 years right? I've pulled cable in places you couldn't imagine pulling cable.
Posted on 4/30/24 at 5:31 pm to CAD703X
quote:are bad, especially the higher-up you go in Cat-echism (sorry, I mean the data speed you are trying to push through the cable).
kinks
You might want to certify those cables if you are aiming for the highest speeds on your block.
Posted on 4/30/24 at 7:50 pm to CAD703X
quote:
protip: write the number of the cable using a sharpie about 15x at each end so you don't get confused later.
It makes it so much easier when you mark both ends of the cable. You could always ohm it out but why not just mark them and skip that step
Posted on 4/30/24 at 8:07 pm to VABuckeye
quote:
You realize that I owned a company that pulled copper and fiber for 23 years right? I've pulled cable in places you couldn't imagine pulling cable.
So why does it bother you I used the thick Ethernet cables provided by reolink under the house and through walls and outside? Seems like they're pretty sturdy and less prone to interference. What should I have used?
Posted on 5/1/24 at 7:38 am to CAD703X
The shielding only works if you terminate it properly and have the correct equipment on the ends. If you dont, shielding can create problems that unshielded cable doesn't have.
Personally I would have just sold the shielded as it is too difficult to work with and bought something non-shielded and easier to pull, install and terminate.
Personally I would have just sold the shielded as it is too difficult to work with and bought something non-shielded and easier to pull, install and terminate.
Posted on 5/1/24 at 8:38 am to CAD703X
quote:
If you run the cable properly interence isn't an issue.
tell me you've never pulled cable through a crawl space without telling me you've never pulled cable through a crawl space.
This statement will not age well for those of us who spent a lifetime running certified cable projects.
Posted on 5/1/24 at 9:13 am to CAD703X
quote:
Seems like they're pretty sturdy and less prone to interference
That whole interference thing could be a bigger problem with shielded cable. if you are floating the shield, it becomes an antenna and can create noise/signal issues on its own. It can also become a shocking hazard because it will have capacitance and store an electrical charge.
If you want to read up more on the subject, search up "floating shield." And the fix isn't just a simple bond both ends. If you bond both ends to a ground source, you can end up getting loops that will also create issues with your signals.
This post was edited on 5/1/24 at 9:15 am
Posted on 5/1/24 at 9:15 am to Meauxjeaux
I know who VAbuckeye is
Posted on 5/1/24 at 3:34 pm to CAD703X
And nothing personal, CAD. I followed a lot of your projects you've posted in the past. 
Posted on 5/1/24 at 4:48 pm to CAD703X
quote:quote:
If you run the cable properly interence isn't an issue.
tell me you've never pulled cable through a crawl space without telling me you've never pulled cable through a crawl space.
I've run unshielded cat5E across an MCC without issues, nothing in your crawlspace will put out more EMI than a 3-phase 480 MCC section.
But I will say there is no downside to running a shielded cable other than dealing with the cable itself. If I had it, I would use it.
quote:
cat8 cables are literally $2.99 on amazon and if you type in 'cat6' or 'cat7' the first hitts are cat8
price the highest grade you need for the job, then look at the next few higher grades and be willing to pay 5-10% more if it gets up a spec level or two (provided it works with what you have). Helps to future proof. Overkill ain't bad if you can afford it and no reason not to if it is cheap to move up. My only caveat is it can't make the installation a PIA compared to the spec you need.
Posted on 5/1/24 at 5:08 pm to mdomingue
Across (at a 90) is perfectly acceptable, to code and has almost zero chance of causing interference.
Posted on 5/1/24 at 10:48 pm to CAD703X
quote:
cat8 all the way to my office which then feeds into a 6 port switch
1gig NIC on each end?
Posted on 5/2/24 at 3:48 am to VABuckeye
quote:I was winding you up since tigerwise won't play with me anymore on here
And nothing personal, CAD. I followed a lot of your projects you've posted in the past.
Posted on 5/2/24 at 7:40 am to Hopeful Doc
quote:
1gig NIC on each end?
I bet so
I still run cat 5e with 10gb on both ends
Posted on 5/2/24 at 9:09 am to VABuckeye
quote:
Across (at a 90) is perfectly acceptable, to code and has almost zero chance of causing interference.
To be clear, I am not recommending that you go unshielded where there is that much EMI, I'm just saying I have been in situations where that happened, and it was at 90 degrees, parallel, and various angles crossing. These were on sites in rural South Texas with people running these lines who typically ran commercial electrical lines.
It is also where I saw the difference a properly terminated RJ45 connection can make. This was at least 15 years ago, probably longer. A lot of guys would simply match colors without regard for terminating the pairs properly. Nothing like an MCC to show you the error of your ways there.
Page 1 of 2
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News