re: TGIF Watch thread

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I like the Planet Ocean but the only version that has both a dive bezel and 24 hour GMT markers only comes on a rubber strap.

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You specifically want a 60-min bezel and bracelet?

Omega has a PO GMT on a bracelet, but it has the 24-hour bezel.

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Amybody got any thoughts or other suggestions?

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I have a thing for dual time zone watches and GMT watches and have several - mostly GMT Master II's of recent vintage, but a few others as well including IWC and the Nomos you see above.

I would give the Longines Spirit Zulu time a look. I recently have handled the 39 mm green bezel, anthracite dial version and was very empressed. I'm probably hypercritical of bracelets, but this is a surprisingly good one - 21 mm at the lugs, which I normally don't like, but tapers down to 16 so it has a nice profile. Also has pin adjusted links, which I definitely prefer screws, but I'd be willing to look past.

Another looker is Grand Seiko SBGM221, if you are ok with moving out of Swill brands. Don't own it, but have seen it in person and it is an impressive watch for the money - 4600 USD RRP. They also have a sport automatic GMT w/ SS bezel that gives off an Expl II vibe, but has the crown at 4 o'clock which is a deal breaker for me.

I really, really like the Tudor BB pro, but it's a little thick for me personally, otherwise great watch and one I've been able to check out pretty extensively. The new BB58 GMT with the gilt dial and "coke" bezel is a full 1.5 mm thinner, I believe, and though I have yet to see it in person, I feel it is almost sure to be a winner.

These are just a few that pop up off the top of my head without talking about price range

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I'm really feeling the need for a GMT watch. Some of the ones I'm looking at in no particular order: Rolex Explorer II, GMT Master II, Planet Ocean GMT, IWC Ingeniiur Dual TIme. Explorer II has been the leader because reasons, but lately the IWC has been speaking to me. GMT Master II is unavailable at the AD and overpriced on the gray marker. I like the Planet Ocean but the only version that has both a dive bezel and 24 hour GMT markers only comes on a rubber strap.

Amybody got any thoughts or other suggestions?

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I like a true traveller GMT which limits the options, my favorites are the GMT Master II and the PO GMT. I think you can still get a PO GMT on bracelet but only the black and white colorway and I have never been a fan. One of my favorite GMTs is the Planet Ocean Good Planet, I used to have a picture on Imgur but it seems to have been purged so a stock picture




Do not sleep on the rubber strap for the POs, I avoided them for a long time but put one on one of my 42mm POs and it wears totally differently in a good way. But I think the only GMTs other than the black and white one in their catalog now are the ceramic ones and they are 45.5mm ones and are massive.

The Tudor is another good options. The issues seem to be fixed and I would buy one now. I did a long post on WUS years ago where I thought I had identified where the issue with the date was... still think I am right. They had the option of using the Rolex date mechanism (the most robuts in all of watchdom) or the tried and true one used on practically ever Swiss watch made for longer than I have been alive but they chose to create a new mechanism... why?

There have been a lot of new traveller GMTs recently and I haven't kept up completely. Mido and Longines have them with the new version of the Powermatic 80 but they don't have a quick set date. Miyota and Seiko both have low cost traveller movements now but I honestly don't know their full specs and limitations.


I like the Mido Oceanstar (even without a quickset date) given the price point. I really like this one but I think it was a SE so it may not be available now





It is a shame the GMT Master II is basically unobtanium since is it the quintessential GMT. That said being honest despite travelling a lot I don't find a GMT to be that useful for me, I travel with 12 hour watches most of the time because that's what I have the most of. If you aren't sure it is a complication worth the cost I might try one of the Miyota 9075 watches to see if you really like it. Admittedly it takes a lot of ques from a certain other GMT but for $1k I like the Jack Mason Stratotimer. It is also available on the 3 link bracelet and it always draws me in. I don't know a lot about the 9075 so you would need to do some research to determine if it works for you.

That's a nice looking watch.

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Have you seen that new (at least I think it's new) Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin with the grainy textured blue dial in 18K WG? It is a real stunner...and only 82K USD lol.

I missed the boat about 10-15 years ago on RO's. Probably shoulda bought one instead of the white dial VC Overseas I bought.

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That is a gorgeous watch but in the end, a RO without a tapisserie dial just isn't quite an RO for me.

I was lucky that I got into the integrated bracelet watches when the "internet" was not interested and AP was getting a lot of grief because they made one watch. I bought my 15400 in '12 or '13 and avoided the rush. I think we have the same Overseas, is yours the white dial? Mine is the 47040 with the white textured dial. I preferred it to the new models when they first came out but I have shifted my opinion, partly because it is a better watch and movement. The VC OS bracelets are still the best sport bracelet IMO even without any sort of micro-adjust. They are a masterpiece.

Early 2000s IWC GST Chronograph. One of the last IWC watches to have “International Watch Co.” on the dial. One of my favorites, but to be fair I only have 6 watches so all 6 are my favorites lol

It’s mainly the camera angle to get the watch details in lol it’s a 40mm and I have a 7 inch wrist last time I checked. I don’t go over 42mm. Here is a proportional pic.

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Longines Hydroconquest GMT

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I thought I wanted that watch until I went look at one in person and tried it on. I like the looks, just didn’t like the weight and how it sat on my wrist. Only other slight knock I had on it is it’s a bit busy. They should ditch the round indices at 6 and 9, use a straight seconds hand, ditch the snowflake style hours hand. Otherwise, it’s a very nice piece and a bargain at the price. I’m planning to grab the 39mm Zulu Time in green/black instead.

Nothing fancy on my wrist today (or any day really ). Normally rock my Garmin, but opted for my NASA G Shock instead.

I'm curious how that works on the inside, how does it speed itself up or slow itself down to maintain the time? What kind of mechanism?

Running late to the thread today, gents.